I have found there is a sweet spot with these motors (granted I now run Killshots but I found the same thing with the D4) where one tooth and 5 degrees of timing can raise or drop temps dramatically. I run 75/28 on my SC10 with about 50 degrees of timing and I come off after 10 mins about 140. Try turning your timing down some that dropped my temps 30+ degrees and SCT's need more torque not really more top end which more timing gives you. Also make sure all your solder joints and cap are good. I have found bad solder joints can generate unnecessary heat.

Also what ESC are you running? ESC's and the software that ESC runs makes a HUGEEE difference. I found when I went from an R10 pro to a Hobbywing Justock my temps dropped 40-50 degrees in my buggy, with the Justock I can't get my motor over 130-140 no matter what I do.

This sounds like a problem with the R10, dropping that much temp is not normal. Maybe the R10 accidentally had some turbo timing being applied?

It'd have more to do with the firmware, and which version he was using.

Ok maybe it wasn't 40-50 i was over exaggerating a little bit but when I ran my R10 pro I was coming off about 160+ after a main and when I put my Justock in, same gearing and everything, I now come off about 130 and I have even tried gearing up, turning timing up and I can't get over 135-140.

And I was running the "mod" software in blinky on my R10.

Also I found the same thing with my Hobbywing 2.1 when I was running it in Mod (non blinky) with no timing I was running about 130 and when I changed the software to put it in blinky my temps went up about 20-30 degrees.

Had my first run on the D4 1S (Certified) last night. I have to say this motor is insane!
My first lap scared me with the amount of speed I had down the straight. I was pulling away from the mods. I had so much power off the jumps I had to control my speed off the jumps. There is a double in one of the long straights, I would normally clear but land about a foot past the second jump, with the D4 1S my first time I landed about 8 feet past and I had so much air it was crazy! I had to make adjustments and use the brake to keep the car low and on the ground.
Tracks conditions were a little less than ideal, really slick, had to turn off boost, and dial the timing back to 45*, and a very loose slipper. This motor is crazy fast and powerful. I have a D4 (Standard) to run still. Once that is done I can compare the two before I decide to order another D4 1S
My lap times were a full second faster, I finished the main a full lap faster, would have been 2 laps but got caught in a 6 car pile-up and came out on the losing end, went from catching 2nd place to finishing 6th of 10.


Mentioned in previous post my motor NEVER got hot. 120-140* after a 6 minute race.

I have a hobby wing just stock but will check all solder joints tomorrow. The thing I thought about these cert motors was that they came timing set with the sweet spot for torque and speed. By the time I've backed it down timing and spur like I said I'm back to a regular 1/2 the price motor. I guess I thought I'd get more from this thing.

What are u running the motor in.

LOSI 22 1.0 (with 2.0 parts)

So you weren't running blinky and were running boost in your ESC?

I ran blinky all night, except for the first lap of practice. Even then the power was amazing. I talked to the Trinity folks today and they said the motor really comes on when set to 60* timing.

So what is the 1S in the D4 1S certified? It's still for 2S batteries right?

The 1S is the designator for Short Stack, some on this forum have also called it SS.

The motor can be con-certified or certified a $50 difference. But I wanted that one top motor for special races, like the JBRL, Top Notch, and Stock Nationals.

I will run either the D4 or D41S non-certified for club racing.

Yes I run 2S batteries.

its a short stack motor designed for 1s but makes more power than the standard 2s versions.

Went into the track today and played around with the motor. I mounted a small fan on to try and cool things down a bit, and it seemed to work pretty good. I was able to go back up to 55 timing and 26 pinion, motor came off the track after 7 min of hard driving at only 145, which according to trinity is acceptable.
What is better...more timing in the motor and a smaller pinion or less timing and a larger pinion? Keep in mind I'm going to use this motor in my sct for now and then I'll move it over to my b5m as soon as our point series is done for sct.

This is subjective - all motors are different. Generally, I like the highest timing I can possibly run.

I tested with the new short stack motor yesterday in my 3 gear B5M. This is a certified 1S D4 motor. Part number: TEP1702RXX. In a car that is being built for 17.5 only racing. Car weighs in at 1550 grams.

Track is my local track, medium bite, a little loose sometimes, very technical and bumpy. Barcodes are good when the track is well groomed, if it loosens up, I'll put on hybrids on the rear and be locked in.

I usually run a regular D4 17.5 certified, and my car is very quick with this setup.

My take away from 3 hours of testing, and playing with gearing: The short stack motor is the real deal. More torque, more RPM, and runs cooler. All around, the motor is much stronger. I left the timing at 60 - where the builder set it. I do run a fan on this car because I'm in AZ, but regardless of gearing, I wasn't able to get the motor super hot. We have a jump combination that is very technical, and the short stack motor gives me power to do it any way I choose - something in 17.5 you don't usually get.

If you're considering this motor for your B5M, feel free to pm me and we can talk specific gearing. This will be my motor going forward for both the series we have in AZ, and also for the Cactus Classic coming up.

Sorry for the dirty car:


http://i.imgur.com/mkFfRxk.png