Gotcha on the suggested amp rating for your charger. I have a set of those Rad Shack 10 amp posts in my hand right now and they are flimsy toys compared to what I got from Parts Express.

I do a fair amount of home and car audio stuff and I've seen 12V power distribution blocks rated for over 100 amps which have less metal than these binding posts you can get for under $10. Think about the amount of metal on each side of a Deans connector and how much continuous current you can run through them. You probably have double that thickness with some of these binding posts.

I wouldn't hesitate to run 100 amps through the posts in the link below.

Dayton Audio binding posts

Just something to keep in mind guys, 60amps of electrical current whether at 1 volt or at 600 volts is the same volume of electricity. NEC requires a #6awg conductor to me code for that amount of electrical current. Just something to ponder upon. If you have an idea of the actual size of #6awg wire, then you have an idea of about how large of connector you'll need. Hope this helps.

Dayton Audio binding posts

These will work just fine!

I'll have to take some measurements. Those are long... granted I'm sure I could cut off a little of the threaded portion if need be. I will be using the ring connector. But I will also need to measure the thickness of my power panel as these have a minimum thickness required. So I may have to use some sort of spacer. But at $12 shipped, couldn't hurt to give then a shot and see if they hold up to the Amperage. I currently can't draw Max load from my charger anyway lol. I need to get more batteries that can take a 20A charge first.

You can still get this toolbox on sams clubs website... they don't have it in-store at my local sams club anymore. But a few guys at the track have the same box as me at the track. But mine is Defintely the coolest lol.

While I agree a reasonable set of posts can handle a fair bit of current, audio power doesn't translate all that well to battery charging power for a couple reasons. One, the 1000W subwoofer current is likely not real high, even a 2 ohm driver would be a little over 22 amps. And music tends to be highly dynamic, with lots of quieter passages in between peaks, the average is much lower with cooling time between the big spikes.

Certainly an interesting reference point, but isn't NEC code for wiring buried in an insulated wall that will not be inspected for a very long time, in which a failure is a extremely bad thing? Somewhat different than a set of posts at least partially in the open air?

Is there something that makes you think the posts in that link wouldn't carry 60 amps without a problem? It really doesn't have anything to do with the dynamic range of music and how much amperage is going to the driver. It's really just a question of there being enough conductor there to handle the current.

Do you think there would be a problem running 2500 watts RMS through those posts into a 1 Ohm load? That should be about 50 amps.

Indeed sir you are correct. #6awg will continuously carry 60 amps without causing any heat issue.

I'm not too sure about car stereo wattage VS. Power supply wattage...I tend to rely on the rating by the manufacturer.

Can't say for sure with no direct experience with those posts, but I suspect they might handle 60A continuous, while quite possibly getting warm. Assuming some air circulation and paying attention to their condition over time they might be fine, but I would want to test and confirm. (Not sure I'm following your second sentence as perhaps you intended it, as amperage is current, the way I'm reading you're saying amps don't matter much but current does? Again could be me, not trying to stir anything, only trying to help and discuss.)

The use of RMS on the 50 amp question leads me to assume you are referring to an audio speaker application? If so I wouldn't expect too much problem, as the average current/amperage/power will be far lower than that. I've seen audio setups not unlike that work fine (Apogee full range ribbons for example, luscious sound but incredible amp killers). Current carrying is limited by heat generation, which is far more related to average current than peak. Unlike the far more continuous high current when charging batteries.

the banana jacks sticking out the side look like an accident waiting to happen

could have used an outdoor keystone setup for it, so it would be protected or countersunk into the toolbox
kinda like this with the bananas
http://www.orderofgarpike.com/_media/media_box.jpg
or
http://cache.smarthome.com/images/36523big.jpg

I tend to use amperage and current interchangeable. Sorry if that is confusing to you. I'm certain that some of the bass heavy "music" you hear kids listening to will sustain pretty close to the full wattage their amplifiers are capable of delivering.

Anyway, I should probably stop mentioning audio stuff since it seems to confuse rather than help. I actually have some formal education in electronics but I was trying to give examples that everyone could picture.

I own a pair of the Dayton binding posts and the cross section is probably four times that of the 12 gauge wire Tekin included with my RX8 ESC. But I believe the binding posts are brass inside while the wire is copper. That means the internal resistance / voltage drop will be just over double that of a copper conductor with the same cross section and length. But I still think they will be fine for this application.

Op, if you try these and they do heat up on you, PM me and I'll buy them from you for what ever you paid and I'll pay shipping to me. I'm going to build a new sub-woofer enclosure for my wife's SUV soon and I can use them there, or in some other future project.

those are great idea's. i will look into something like that. i need to see if i can find a counter sunk panel that is just a flat surface. meaning there are no pre-cut banana jack/coax ports, ect. my toolbox has an extending handle that i leave out part way to help prevent anyone from bumping the binding posts. you can barely see the handle in the first picture of the first post. i finally had the box at the track recently and it worked out perfectly. i do need to add something to the side of the tool box to keep the wires off the ground. i might swing by lowes today and see what they have available as far as cable management. it'll need to be quick release as I don't leave the wires plugged in all the time. it's really a work in progress and i appreciate you guys feedback and suggestions.

edit: let me know if you know where to find a recessed box that has a blank panel similar to my power panel. i can't find anything that is similar to my current power panel that is also recessed. man i need a 3D printer!

also, i guess i could always get one similar to the one pictured above and drill out the blank inserts to accommodate my binding posts. I could also get the USB insert. if only i can find one without the dual AC plugs.