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Originally Posted by elex300
(Post 13146870)
However if you cant run a full heat with out being marshalled your wasting your money.
Originally Posted by shagino
(Post 13146976)
I like to think consistency is a bigger deal. If you aren't consistent, it really doesn't matter what you put into the car.
Originally Posted by ThePanda
(Post 13147229)
...all the lightweight bits and goodies will help but learning to drive consistently and smoothly will yield the best results.
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Originally Posted by thecaptain
(Post 13148191)
I looked on the rules there is no such rule for a legal minimum number so they made it up. My motor comes off at 21.3 each terminal. Its a good thing to know the rules and make sure the things you are running is legal. Also what motor are you running that has a 20.0 ir?
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Edit the Quote From:
Originally Posted by 68sportcoup
(Post 13146683)
If you ask me I would run mod then every one has
more motor than they can use That's how Mod class works??? :D |
Do any of you notice your motor loosing any torque or top end as it ages?
I have over a year on a d3.5. I was wondering if I should replace it with a newer motor. |
Originally Posted by JASF4I
(Post 13148759)
Do any of you notice your motor loosing any torque or top end as it ages?
I have over a year on a d3.5. I was wondering if I should replace it with a newer motor. As far as it being old, it all depends on the abuse it has endured. Multiple classes, or every weekend is abusive regardless of temperature. Think of it like a car motor, the more miles the weaker it gets. I have a friend whose D3.5 now has brown wires from being at 160*-200* on many occasions, it still runs great but it does fade substantially into a run. |
Originally Posted by Captcha
(Post 13148989)
As of today, the Trinity D3.5 10.5T, 13.5T, and 17.5T are no longer ROAR Legal motors, so if you plan on running ROAR events, I would suggest replacing it.
As far as it being old, it all depends on the abuse it has endured. Multiple classes, or every weekend is abusive regardless of temperature. Think of it like a car motor, the more miles the weaker it gets. I have a friend whose D3.5 now has brown wires from being at 160*-200* on many occasions, it still runs great but it does fade substantially into a run. |
I believe that it only applied to the 17.5 D3.5. That was the one that caused all this, or are all of them being lumped together into the fiasco.
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I personally called ROAR, and asked the man whom answered the phone for the organization, and what I wrote up above is word for word what he told me.
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Originally Posted by Captcha
(Post 13148338)
21.1 is the ROAR minimum for IR of the stator, my Trinity Revtech Maxzilla is 21.4/21.4/21.3 and I race with a guy who owns a Big Blue Bad @$$ which is a Big blue can and 13mm rotor, and i pull him in RPM, but he gets me in torque because of the rotor. The BBA is only legal in outlaw and mod classes, but at our club races they dont tech motors.
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You really want the secret?
Ok. Listen up. Only saying this once. turn your speed control to 11. :nod: |
The list can be found here. The D3.5 is still listed from 3.5 up to 10.5 but no 13.5 or 17.5 is listed.
http://www.roarracing.com/approvals/...lessmotors.php |
Originally Posted by thecaptain
(Post 13149390)
Could you please post the link where you found this?
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Originally Posted by Captcha
(Post 13149478)
I dont have an actual document I.D. I am going by what our normal motor tech guy tells us. He techs all of our roar regionals for the motors, and used to work for trinity, or in correspondance with trinity.
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Is the d3.5 that fast to were it's banned? Never ran one
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:cool:yup,...
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