Cain- PM me with details what your mean about the 1 cent? Don't understand? Thanks.

made the plunge purchased the 7701 Waterproof servo from amain with that 10% they got going on. Haven't bought a servo new in awhile so hopefully this one lives up to what i am looking for versus the hitecs I use.

Think your going to like this one!!

Cool. will be using it in a Mad Force from Kyosho so it will get some snow usage.

Do you know what spline the servo has?

servo came in with other parts for my build, so will probably start tomorrow on the build.

Got the servo in.

Didn't see any paperwork with it that stated what the spline was, but its a futaba spline, 25T from what I recall.

I took some pics and will update with it later, but for those curious the servo wire length is probably a inch or two shorter than the Hitec servos like the 7955TG so should reach in Tekno vehicles without an extension.

Nothing funky with dimensions on the servo, They did have a nice little box that the servo wire was in but no instructions or anything on the servo in the box. Not saying you really need that, but just something I saw.

Installed it in my Kyosho Mad Force project I have been working on. I did notice something odd however and took video of it and will post later.

Under power when setting up throw to each side, I noticed that once direction would be louder than the other from the servo. Turn the wheel one way, it was relatively quite, turn the wheel the other way it was a bit noisier as if it was working harder. :confused:

I'll post a vid of what I am hearing too.

No testing yet here though as I am still working out parts and layout details on my vehicle.

This is a follow up to an issue reported about 4 months ago. I have only had one occurance of the servo not working upon initial power up, and like usual turning the receiver off and on fixed the issue, this was during a session of changing some settings on the speed control. The only other issue I had about a month ago was a first timer. The servo was totally erratic and moved on its own upon power up but would not respond to input from the radio, turning the receiver off and then on fixed this issue as well. This strange ocurance only happened once. Out of these two instances I would estimate that the car had been ran at least 40 times! I think my radio or receivers might possibly be part of the issue, not sure though. Im using an older Futaba 3PKS and R603FS receivers. I've had other issues with this combo of radio and receivers with multiple brands of ESC's having throttle drift issues. Planning on getting a New radio soon, will see if all issues stop when I get my new radio set up! Also, I did check to see if the servo chimed when it wouldn't respond, it did, it also had no resistance to move by hand as if it wasn't under power, strange, never had any other servo act in such a way!

do you have a Viper progauge? I heard it can be used to check the servo but don't know enough on what it will actually check.

My issue as an update I sent the servo in to be serviced unfortunately :(

I don't have any servo testing equipment, but the issue of the servo not working on power up has been the only repeatable issue I have had, once the receiver is turned off and back on it solves the problem. I posted about this some pages back on this thread. I will say though that to this day once the servo works, it works flawlessly with no issues what so ever, it's just the occasional no work on power up thats the bugger. But like I said, turn off the receiver then back on and it works.

very strange stuff.

WailinOnYa - from your description that would seem more connection or radio/receiver related. Servo and speed controls are passive units - they are going to do what they are told or nothing at all.

If you have the Viper ProGuage, it has a function that lets you test the signal coming out of your radio to see that the "throw" of the signal is currect - you can read more info on it here -- https://www.facebook.com/notes/viper...38780019525886

Cain - I was told (I'm in NY for the holidays, not that WA office), that one of the techs was looking at your servo today, will update you when I know more...

Sounds good. I got in the proguage and other items I ordered, very fast shipping!

Here are some pics for those interested, servo in comparison is a Hitec 7955TG I believe.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...f/DSCF8751.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...f/DSCF8752.jpg

What is different between PI-3431 and PI-3401? They use the same gear and almost same spec but the price is about $30 different.

3431 - is plastic based case with an aluminum cover over middle of servo.
3401 - all aluminum case and supports top and bottom.

Little heavier weight, more durable case. The more durable case is not so much because we worry about the case breaking - its because the case can flex in an impact, which could move the support pins and cause a stripped gear. Not that it happens a lot - its just the extra security is what your going for with that model.

Are all the xpert servos Narrow band?

for a 1/10 awd buggy which one would you recommend?

What would be a good servo for 1/10 sct?

The Xpert 4431 would be awesome in 4wd buggy and either 2 or 4wd corr truck. Price is great for a servo with it's specs too. I'm nobody special (unless you ask my mommy) but that's what I'd buy for any of those.

Is that the 4000 series? Amain has that one and part code has 4431 in it

Yes sir. XPTSI-4431 on Amain. I'm going to try one in either 4wd buggy or 4wd corr (whichever I buy next) since I've been totally impressed with my $70 3431 low profile servo in my 2wd buggy.

xpert servo bag things
 

Hello guys, can some one explain the plastic and screws that comes with the servo and some plastic adapters kind of thing? it was my first time buying a couple of servos for my xray xb8 and really dont know if I have to use something in the bag for the build or i just want to know what is everything just in case, just want to learn more about the hobby and its parts.

the servos are SI-LV 4531 and SI-LV4431 here is an image of the things that came with, thanks in advance for any guidelines.

Pretty sure I answered the question on Facebook for you - but those are misc arms just in case they are needed. Most of the time a car company will put the correct arms you need in their kit. Follow the instructions there for set up.

Be glad to answer any other questions about Xpert servos here or on Facebook.

Got that same servo used. Impressed with build quality why is that servo plug lead so short? is it because its low profile the assumption is that it will be used in touring car?

thanks again you're right sir you did ;)

The Lee Martin editions come with short leads- by design. The standard units are longer. If you have a standard unit with a shorter wire it was probably done by the previous owner.

I dont think so it looked in perfect condition. I have a B5 rear and it just made it past the battery but not long enough to plug into receiver. No big. Nik very impressed with these servos a little faster and stronger than others in its class, build quality top notch and the start beep is cool. If it holds up to my crappy driving a few more will be in my future
Jake

I see your in AZ -- if you race at W3 or SRS and have any questions about the servos - just find Bert Jones or Ryan Floyd. Two of our team drivers in that area. Good Luck

if anyone is using a Futaba FHSS receiver, Viper VTX8, and a high voltage Xpert servo please shoot me a pm.

Anyone run these side by side compared to another servo to check the transit times? I've heard good things except I know little about how the customer service and durability is. I have JR and airtronics servos that I've replaced only because after moving from car to car after 8 to 10 years, faster models came out.

I just put a WR-4401 in my Nexx8 buggy and it's awesome.

What radio gear are you using if you don't mind me asking?

Nice!!!!:nod::nod::cool:

I run them in both 1/8 electric and nitro offroad and 1/10 TC with a Futaba 4PKSR , and they are flawless!!

hopefully when I get mine back I can share some of the love too :nod:

I am looking to replace them in my 1/10 offroad also, but just abit costly when you race too many classes, 2wd stock 2&4wd mod rear motor, mid motor etc!!! lol

yeah, depending on how things go I may pick up a low profile servo to try.

Hey all,

I'm kind of on the fence w/ buying the Xpert 3000 Series "High Speed" Low Profile All Aluminum Case Servo for my B44.2. i'm also looking at the Protek Chad Bradley edition and the Futaba S9352HV Digital High Voltage Hi Torque/Speed Titanium Gear Servo. I already have the Futaba and Protek in some other of my buggies and think they're very impressive. Kind of like "buy once and never have to worry again" products. But I always like trying out new things. Can anyone provide me pros and cons? Thanks!

Hello Cain and you other guys :cool:

Sorry the late reply, I use a Nomadio React transmitter and currently there’s a Nomadio V2 Transceiver installed in it. I can also use a Spektrum receiver like the SR3000 or any surface receiver that use the DSM1 modulation DSM2, DSMR, DSMX and so on can’t be bound to the React transmitter.

I had forgotten to subscribe to the thread, since I am used to when ever I make a post on a thread on a forum, it automatically subscribes to that exact thread. Now I have made sure, I subscribe to this thread.

Anyway, I'm planning on putting a WR-6601 in my Durango DEX408 V1 buggy.
I got the buggy second hand, but you can hardly see it's ever been used.
Right now it has a Savox SC-1258TG installed, but it's SO very noisy and there's nothing that binds in the steering or anything obvious to why it makes all that noise. So I guess it's just meant to make all that noise, but it makes me sort of anxious when a servo makes so much noise. Plus I want a more powerful servo for it. Okay so it might be overkill, to install a WR-6601 in it but well I'm sort of odd that way. Other goodies installed in the buggy is a Spektrum SR201 RX used with my Nomadio React transmitter, the powerplant is a Tekin RX8 Gen2 ESC plus I have the Tekin Hotwire programming device too and a Tekin Redline T8 Gen2 1900kV motor with a 20T pinion on it (not sure what stock pinion is) and dual Zippy 2S 6000 mAh hardcase packs in a series setup

(Yes I'm a noob regarding this so odd question on the side, can the RX8 ESC run on just a 2S setup so I double the runtime versus the 4S setup where it’s the voltage that’s doubled?)

thanks for the info. Remember that radio, wish they didn't stop there RC line it was ahead of the game at the time.

The RX8 can run on 2S its used commonly in 4x4 SCT on that voltage level. However, for your 1/8 buggy with that motor you will want 4S due to the KV available. Also, it will run cooler with more voltage, etc.

in general you want to match the right Kv to the right voltage. If runtime if paramount to you, look into something like dual 7800mah packs wired in series. Just bear in mind that extra weight will be on the rear of the vehicle if racing.

If you are looking for more runtime with more voltage, give dual 3S lipos a look, and say a 1400kv motor, but personally I would just use the 4S setup as you will be legal everywhere in general that runs 1/8 E buggy.

Yeah it's too bad Nomadio got out of the RC game, but hey defense contracts does bring a lot of cash to the table for further development.

But lucky for me I have one Sensor and two React radios and I also still have and run the RC Desktop program for both transmitters. Good thing Nomadio made that DSM compatible Beta firmware for the React before closing down further development for 3rd. party RX's.
At least those of us who still use the Reacts have the Spektrum DSM1 modulation to fall back on since the original Nomadio RX's are pretty rare to get hold of even used.

I also use 2S LiFe packs in my transmitters. 1700 mAh hump pack in my Sensor and 1450 mAh stick pack for the Reacts. Though looking into finding a stick pack with more mAh for the Reacts as 1450 don't last very long but still longer than the stock 800 mAh NiMh pack.
So I have found a 2000 mAh pack that should fit nice and snug into the battery compartment.

As for the dual pack in the car i'll just stick with the 4S setup and get some packs with more mAh in them. I will only be using it for bashing and casual driving anyway.
The little I have driven it already, it runs pretty cool when I have looked at the various readouts on the Hotwire program afterwards.