Hey everyone,

I'm currently running a Tekin RS Gen 2 as my ESC in my 12th scale. It is apparently supposed to be excellent for 1s ... but not so much. When I run it I am finding I am putting nearly a full charge back into my Reedy 7000 mAh Lipo. Definitely drawing waaay too much. The ESC is brand new and is properly configured.

So - I may move that ESC into another vehicle and replace it - can I get some recommendations? Prefer not to have to run a LiFe or Booster if I can. How are the new ORCA ones?

Thanks

Luke

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I had some issues with my RS in 1s applications (WGT). Moved it back to my 2wd buggy and it has been flawless.

I would recommend the hobbywing 1S. Built in booster, smooth, and durable! Relatively inexpensive as well.

+1

The Viper VTX1R is also very good, just as quick as the HW, nice and smooth and very good built in booster, never had a glitch.

Thanks Badger - no R -- just VTX1. 2 time ROAR National Champ in 1/12 17.5 in 2013. Like mentioned above, no booster required, easy to program with ProGauge/EZLink card, low profile, small footprint -- big fun!!!

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Thanks for the replies everyone. The Viper actually worked really well in the WGT, but others said it wasn't working so well in 12th and that it was hit and miss sometimes as well. Including resetting during a race. So ... that is out for me.

I did a bunch of research in the mean time and found excellent results on the ORCA
VX-1 so I decided to go that route.

Would really love to know what is up with my RS Gen 2 drawing almost 5000 mAh every race.

Luke

I think people sometimes under (or over) estimate the power draw of their vehicles, an Eagletree or a Watts Up Meter is a handy tool and you can adjust gearing to control current draw / amp load, for example my 1/8 Buggy pulls 80 Amps at most on 4s, when I tried 17.5 boosted TC it was around the 120-130 Amp mark (2s). If you're running 1s, but geared up for speed a high amp load wouldn't be a surprise.

I am the guy who provides the help -- tell them to contact me, haven't had any VTX1 calls lately. Available 9-5 PST by phone or any time through PM.

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Thanks for the info! Can you give me any insight into how the endbell timing of the motor affects the amp draw? Obviously I get the very basics, turn it up, the motor can reach higher RPM and thus draw more amperage, but would like to understand it a little more than just that.

Also - would adding a larger capacitor (or cap bank) to the ESC help with lowering the overall draw? My thought is if the caps did the hard work (acceleration and breaking), then the ESC would have to work less, thus run cooler, thus drawing less power. Am I on the right track?

I realized my driving in 12th at our last race was either full throttle or none, just didn't realize it at the time. This tells me I need to throw a smaller pinion on their so the motor can reach its ideal RPM quicker and give me that acceleration I am clearly looking for.

Luke

I appreciate the offer for the help (and the desire to do so) however I was 'given' the Viper ESC because of the problems it had and lack of resolution, the person who gave it to me was simple fed up and was looking for other solutions. That simple fact alone makes me weary to buy one to begin with.

That being said - it did run fine for me the one day I ran it, and the guy who gave it to me said it ran fine in his WGT as well. And I did actually quite like it. Compact form factor, well built and layed out.

Luke

Higher endbell timing would increase amp draw and also lower the efficiency of the system (more power lost to heat etc) A larger cap won't stop amp draw but it will help the esc provide that 'punch' under load and make the ESC less prone to frying due to voltage spikes back under brakes (Which is why the Traxxas X01 has that huge cap pack, as the MMM Speedie does tend to go bang that way!)