OK, I've read through this whole thread several times today and I'm still confused.

Is there any way to program the TrackStar rebrand with the SkyRC progbox? I have a SkyRC progbox and the TrackStar 150A gen ii ESC.

Thanks in advance.

No. The Trackstar esc and SkyRc programming box are incompatible.

Most companies buy a specific component (hardware) then develop the software in house to control how the esc runs. So the code is totally different than another company wrote it. Sans Turnigy, Skyrc. Why is it so hard to buy the same program box as the esc. Save yourself some disappointment.

Hello,

Has any one found a way to make the the TS Link work with Windows 10?

Warranty information
 

How long is the warranty on these esc's? Do they have to get sent overseas? I have had bad luck with packages getting lost on the way to china. It costs over $50 to ship it with tracking from California which does not make sense for a $75 esc.

I am considering one of these but the warranty procedures will decide if I pull the trigger.

Anyone care to share their good or bad warranty experiences with Trackstar esc's?

It does not cost $50 to ship an esc to China... If so, you are doing it wrong, lol

Buy from West Coast USA Warehouse, return to West Coast USA Warehouse. Very simple. I have personally gone through about twenty Trackstar esc's and only had one dud. I waited too long to test it so it was out of warranty. I've never had the others fail on me. I also don't have a history of poor soldering techniques, shorting out, pushing electronics to the max, or generally just plain killing RC electronics. If that describes you, give Trackstar a shot. If you are the opposite, spend 3X more on Tekin and their staff will hold your hand through every mistake you encounter.

I did buy a set of dud lipos from Hobbyking before. The RMA process was simple, pleasant, and fast. If you feal squeamish about spending your money on this brand or from this store, simply don't. Spend 3X more on Tekin or whatever other brand.

Or buy the Toro version from another certified retailer like rcmart.

And to answer the other question, I haven't touched Win10 yet. But I'm pretty sure that's a basic question of how to use compatibility mode.

Thanks for the info. Whenever I try to ship a esc or motor to China thru USPS it usually cost $25 for priority mail or over $50 with tracking. At least thats what they quote me at the post office.

How long are these esc's covered for?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...7X53414X36.pdf

See last page of instruction manual. Read up before you do something that will void your warranty. Something like using this esc with a Leopard 3665 2680kv motor geared tall and on 6s. It clearly states that is beyond the limits of this esc. If you fry the esc trying to break 140mph and pushing beyond the product's stated specifications, replacement is not covered by the warranty.

Wow. Im surprised you know the setup in my TC4! Haha. I wasn't planning to use it in that car but possibly in my Kyosho Inferno GT2 VE or possibly my Mugen MGT7e but I just ended up "spending 3 times more" on a Tekin RX8 gen 2 from my LHS since I needed it today. I might still end up trying the Trackstar ESC in the future. Thanks for the info.

I searched your post history and saw you like to push Rc's to the extreme. I just wanted to point out that you shouldn't expect white glove treatment from Hobbyking on these budget esc's. They are great, and I've pushed one beyond its specified amp limits several times without fail, but don't expect a warranty replacement if things smoke in extreme applications.

When shopping for this esc at Hobbyking, check the price at all warehouses. A few months ago I picked up several for $59. I think they were $80 at all the other warehouses.

Will do. Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

Just bought the Toro TS150A and X8S 1750KV to replace my Tekin setup...

First use went ok once I figured things out a bit. Does anybody know what 4 Beeps (red led) mean??

I think it was temp cutoff but not sure.

edit: it was a silly question. I just read the instructions and it's obvious you can't remove the switch.

Toro 150a
 

Hi all,I got a savage flux conversion with a leopard 4074 2150 and run turnigy bolt 5400 3s. The motor and speed controller are brand new as I fired my xcar set up and decided to step to 6s. So I ran it for the first time the other day and everything was fine, ran out of battery and took it home. Charged batteries and when I went to run the next day it is cogging and not moving anywhere. I also have the WiFi module but no PC for software up date

Sounds like you bought the SkyRC flavor. I would contact their customer support. Something doesn't sound right.

Thanks, I thought as much and have sent them an email.

Well I bought one of these (Trackstar Gen 2 150A) and received it on Friday of last week. Got the program box as well which works just fine but I just had to try the USB link software. FYI the V1.07 software doesn't work at all. Found the V2.06 in a link on here although the website just kept showing me V1.07 when I would navigate to it.

So v2.06 works but it is difficult to get it to connect with the ESC.

I thought I would post my sequence here as it may be of help to someone else.

1. Open the USBLink software with the USB cable unplugged from the PC. It will say USB connection failed. "DO NOT CLICK OK"

2. Plug in the USB cable to the program box and then the PC. Wait for the TULINK software to open. In the bottom right corner it will say "Connection Fail"

3. Navigate to the setting screen.

4. Unplug the USB cable from the PC. The bottom right corner will say "USB Connection Fail"

5. Plug the USB back into the PC. Wait for it to reconnect. You may have to unplug it and plug it back in multiple times before it recognizes the USB connection again.

6. Once it recognizes the USB wait for it to find the ESC.

7. The progress bar on the bottom will fill from left to right and the message in the bottom right will read "Get Data from ESC Success"

At this point you can upload and download from/to the ESC. If you disconnect it or shut down the program you will have to start the process of connecting all over again.

Hope this helps if you're having trouble programming from the PC as I was.

In other news the ESC is working perfectly. I'm running a 2100kv sensored motor with a 5000mah 4S LIHV battery in my Losi 8ight 2.0 w/Tekno conversion and its got some serious kick. It's pretty much a ball of spinning fury at full throttle.

Update and question/concern.

No problem with the ESC or motor. But while I was out driving Saturday I realized I had too much drag brake for my liking. I hadn't brought anything with me as I had just been out driving around looking for a place to drive it and see if my tire glue job (Aluminum wheels) would hold up.

Fast forward to today. I decided to change the drag brake settings with the programming box instead of the computer for the sake of simplicity but it's got the descriptions and values all scrambled up.

For example throttle deadband said 25% and drag brake said 80us.

Well drag brake was set at 20% (way too high BTW I'm new to 1/8th) and throttle deadband at 80us on Saturday so I knew. Reverse was 25% on Saturday and today the reverse options were line and custom. So yeah all scrambled.

When I decided to connect it to the PC the settings in the ESC were as expected. I changed them and went out for a drive to verify the new settings and they definitely worked.

Anyone ever experienced this issue? I'm thinking a firmware update to the program box to coincide with the V2.06 software may be needed.

Thoughts?

**EDIT**
I changed the firmware of the program box back down to 1.07. It was at 2.1. Now the data and the descriptions line up again.

So in short. If you're using the V1.0 firmware in the ESC you must use the V1.07 firmware in the programming box.

switches
 

Got 2 of these with bad switches and wondering if anybody had any luck swapping switches and what one did u use ???

From what all i have read, v1.0 firmware for the esc is the only firmware available. Correct?

Did you get an answer for this? I had a dnf on a heat race due to this..

I think you are right, but for what.. the motor or the esc..

Esc fan
 

The fan has gone in my skyrc toro ts 150a esc just wondering what replacement fan can be used. Cheers

Me too

Hobbyking and SkyRC both sell standalone push button switches similar to these, but they come with an extra pair of wires to connect to a receiver and battery pack. You could use one of those and figure which combination of wires you need to complete the esc circuit.

You can't just connect the wires, these esc's use a momentary switch so if you connect the wires directly on the switch it interprets it as you entering program mode.

You can cut the switch off, touch the two wires together to power up then untouch and the esc should stay on, touch them again to turn off.

I have TORO SC120A. It has very weak brakes, but otherwise is working fine. I'm considering upgrading to TORO TS150A. Can anyone confirm that brakes are fine on this one?

BTW, I'm running it with Tenshock TS X812, 1900kv 6pole motor with sensore wire.

Toro 150a and motor 6 pole
 

Can i run 6 pole on 6s? Toro or it will damaged the motor?

you have to reverse it in the speedo settings via program box

I recently bought a Toro TS 150A ESC and there are two things that I don't like.

First thing - when you slowly accelerate and then go back to neutral, right after putting the trigger back to neutral position, the car like jumps forward a little. Imagine driving 1:1 manual transmission car and stopping without clutch. The car jumps a bit forward. So cause of this, it's almost impossible to stop from low speed on desired place or just drive slowly with putting the trigger to neutral sometimes. You stop and after putting the trigger to neutral, the car still goes a little forward. Like an power pulse going to the motor.

Second thing - the reverse. The reverse curve is messed up. In the first like 10 % of the trigger position, the reverse speed is insane, like 70 % right away. But if you skip the first 10 % of reverse trigger position quickly enough, the reverse behaves as it should, nice and proportional. It's hard to explain, but it's a big problem. Imagine the custom throttle line you can set via the skylink software. First 10 % of X axis have constant 70 % Y axis value. Then the Y value drops to 0% and then the line rises and is nice and proportional. When you try to reverse slowly, the car just spurts back.

I have my Sanwa transmitter binded and set correctly, no EXPO, all trims on 0, nothing that can possible affect this. Im riding Xray XB8e and I use sensored LRP DYNAMIC 8 motor. My car is new, with new electronics and new good quality LI-Po 4S battery. I use no timings, no boost, no turbo. What Im trying to say it's really not my fault. I have 12+ years experience in RC world.

Does this happen to you guys with this ESC? :confused::weird:

For that first thing, it kinda sounds like the "coasting" feature on some Hobbywing ESCs - something which sounded interesting in the feature explanation but was actually completely ridiculous, like your described. Now, I don't have this ESC - I've been thinking of trying one eventually - and the manual doesn't list this feature, but if you have some newer firmware or something, then maybe such a feature might be there and enabled. Worth checking out. I suppose it could be some sort of mess-up in the boost/turbo settings, though that seems unlikely especially as you said you don't use them. Have you changed the other settings from default much?

For that second thing... huh. I actually had something similar with my Speed Passion ESC just a couple weeks back. Turned out to be a faulty sensor wire. Do you have another sensor wire you could try?

Thanks for replying, the firmware is stock, there never was an update as far as I know. I played with the settings A LOT and the car does that everytime, with different throttle curves, punch settings, throttle dead band settings.. The only thing that helped was enabling the drag brake (because it starts braking right when you put the trigger to neutral)

The idea with sensor wire is interesting, I'll eventually give it a try, but the thing is that it happens also without the sensor wire, so, who knows.

Or..

https://i.imgflip.com/1vzfn5.jpg

I already contacted the SkyRc support..

I don't have that ESC, so pure guessing here on my part (on the reverse speed issue), but: is there a setting for initial brake? Maybe the ESC (for whatever reason) jumps up to that value in reverse also, not just on braking...?

It is there, but I have it set to =Drag brake, and the car does that with drag brake set to both zero and non zero values.. 😞

Just to give the follow up to everyone that would eventualy be intrested. SkyRC support responded with

".... We have tested our stock TS150 ESC, and yes, this problem truly exists. I have reported this issue to our engineer, and we will start working on the software, seeking the possibility to solve this issue.
Hope we could locate the cause, and solve this issue soon enough...."

So big thumbs up for them to really care. Hopefully the SW update ll be released soon. :)

tracksar 150A gen 2
 

i use a PC with windows 10 but in the past i use Windows 7 or 8
the usb link sofware work fine with a good usb cable and i upgrade my speedo with the latest software 1.03
if it dont work it's certainly because you dont use the right usb cable
in 1) check if your cable is ok, connect your cable in the PC and in the program box, normally your pc must to upload a driver and the screen program box a message appears "USB connected to PC!"
i you dont have this message, your cable is wrong.
in2) upload the usb link software 2.06 on hobbyking and defrag
in 3) open TU usb link V2 (not usb link V2.06)
in 4) connect the speedo on the program box
all are connected

larry

So, someone asked earlier but didn't really get a definite confirmation... does this work safely with 2S and motors that are higher than 3000kv? It's currently under 50€ on sale at Hobbyking (TrackStar version, obviously), and I was considering it as a spare for my SCTs since I already have the programming card for it too. But my SCT motors vary from 3600 to 5100kv. I don't see why it wouldn't work since all that should matter is the amperage/current pulled by the motor, and at 150A this should have more than enough @ 2S, but maybe there's something I'm not taking into account. I'm not sure why the ESC would care about the kv itself, especially since in sensorless mode it wouldn't even know what kv the motor is currently at, it'd be all about V/A/W. So, anyone using one with such motors to know for sure?

Aside from being a spare it'd make a nice to have if I ever get a 1:8 buggy, but since I don't know if that's gonna happen any time soon, it'd have to be usable with the SCTs too, otherwise might just as well get a 120A Gen2 (which I already have in my SC5M) I guess. Too bad that one isn't on sale at the moment (and is out of stock anyway). The Turbo V2 is, but that'd mean getting yet another program card, making it almost as expensive as the Gen2, not to mention I have quite enough program cards to juggle around as it is.

That ESC will work fine with most motors on 2S, so long as long as you aren't pulling more than 150 amps constantly. Check the specs of the motor, but considering this ESC will easily handle 4S a 3000kv motor 2S will be no problem.

Hello
I have upgraded ESC firmware to 1.04 and now it can't connect to program box.

Is there a way to roll back to older firmware ?
Thanks