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Originally Posted by 200sxr
(Post 15085586)
I had a quick look at the forum and cannot establish an answer, my question is does the built-in BEC for the RSX (or any Tekin current generation ESC) regulates the voltage, i.e. if the BEC is set to 7.4v what happens when the battery voltage drops below 7.4v?
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Originally Posted by jmills1981
(Post 15067512)
Ok. Randy is right though. Each time you switch on the power it starts a new run in the data logger. I tend to use the "Inc" button myself. If you hold it down for 3-5 secs it'll start a series of light flashes and a few beeps before it rearms. This is the best way I've found to make sure I always have fresh data. I'll plug my battery in and power on. The just before I start my run while it's still powered on I hold down the Inc button to clear all the data. That gives me fresh data with the only run recorded being the one I'm currently in. Just hold it down till you start hearing the beeps then let go and let it finish. However at the end of your run after you hit the lvc if you try to keep going it will constantly start a new run. It acts like it's being powered on and off.
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Originally Posted by Krio
(Post 15085896)
It drops with the voltage of the pack. There isn’t a voltage booster in the speed control, so if you want a constant voltage you will have to use an external bec that has that capability.
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OK,it shouldn't have happened, but it did...got a new lipo with 5mm connectors - spanking new Maclan LiHv. Terminals are opposite to my old lipo so I swapped them over - or so I thought..
I just touched the bullet connector and it sparked. Obviously it was never fully connected. I swapped the power wires (properly this time) and cautiously powered up the RSX...it beeped, it was in Blinky, still works perfectly. Have I just got really lucky, or should I turn it in for testing? |
Originally Posted by oldernoob
(Post 15121259)
OK,it shouldn't have happened, but it did...got a new lipo with 5mm connectors - spanking new Maclan LiHv. Terminals are opposite to my old lipo so I swapped them over - or so I thought..
I just touched the bullet connector and it sparked. Obviously it was never fully connected. I swapped the power wires (properly this time) and cautiously powered up the RSX...it beeped, it was in Blinky, still works perfectly. Have I just got really lucky, or should I turn it in for testing? If you can afford being without a speed control for a week or two, I'd send it in. $10-15 to ship it there and back is worth the peace of mind to me. If you need the ESC for a race and can't afford another speed control, I would at least replace the capacitor before running it. |
So which is the more powerful esc, the RSX or RS Pro? Looking at the specs, the RSX is rated at 180 amps per phase while the RS Pro is rated at 480 per phase? They’re both about the same price and appear to have the same setup options. I run dirt oval with the RSX in mod sprint as well as open timing and blinky classes. Just wondering if I need to sell the RSX’s I have and go for the pros?
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RS Pro even though it is rated for more amps does not have the cooling of the RSX. If you are running modified RSX is the only way to go and still the premier ESC from Tekin. RS pro is great for spec racing for it's low resistance or drag racing due to it's high amp rating (and used for only short periods of time).
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+1 for what Casper said. Since you already run mod motors in the same chassis, stick to the RSX. That's what I do with my 2wd and 4wd buggies that I use for both mod and stock.
The RS Pro is better if you absolutely want the lightest, smallest, lowest resistance ESC for an all out spec class racer. You'd be hard pressed to feel any difference between the RSX and RS Pro with a stock motor. You'd more likely feel a power difference if you came from an RS Spec/Gen2 or any other speed control rated just for stock classes. |
Originally Posted by jdearhart
(Post 15122645)
So which is the more powerful esc, the RSX or RS Pro? Looking at the specs, the RSX is rated at 180 amps per phase while the RS Pro is rated at 480 per phase? They’re both about the same price and appear to have the same setup options. I run dirt oval with the RSX in mod sprint as well as open timing and blinky classes. Just wondering if I need to sell the RSX’s I have and go for the pros?
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Tc3 spektrum dx2e/s3000 basically brand new rsx/gen3 6.5 geared 72/26
Problem: wot likes to cut out and if car is far away 150-200ft “maybe” it has died and wouldn’t start back up till I was 20ft away Added a glitch buster still does it even added two lol still got quirkiness Had receiver wire burried under servo wires I did pull wire up and away and car seems to respond better but this was at end of battery. It sat for a year so was I getting “cobwebs” syndrome? Is there anything in livewire that could something that could tell me if it’s signal voltage or sensor related? Oh and servo is Savox 1257 Thanks Art |
Originally Posted by grabbem88
(Post 15141490)
Tc3 spektrum dx2e/s3000 basically brand new rsx/gen3 6.5 geared 72/26
Problem: wot likes to cut out and if car is far away 150-200ft “maybe” it has died and wouldn’t start back up till I was 20ft away Added a glitch buster still does it even added two lol still got quirkiness Had receiver wire burried under servo wires I did pull wire up and away and car seems to respond better but this was at end of battery. It sat for a year so was I getting “cobwebs” syndrome? Is there anything in livewire that could something that could tell me if it’s signal voltage or sensor related? Oh and servo is Savox 1257 Thanks Art Definitely put the antenna in a tube and stand it up as high as you can. When it cuts out, set the radio down and go to the car to see what lights are showing on the speed control and receiver. That can help us figure out what the root cause is. |
Yeah it’s the spektrum stuff. Kinda figured it was but this was second spektrum radio and receiver
Thanks for replying Btw I bought a used airtronics FHSS-2 so hopefully it’s better. |
Lol I had to share even though this is on rsx topics. Took radio apart between the glob of hot glue on wire connection it popped off too easy so I said hell with it and grabbed a new spektrum antenna wire disassembled the tube and stuff put it back together and took it outside and just let it go.. well I lost sight of it a few times and guessed the direction it was going and brought it back.. so if ya’ll have this issue you might want to check the radio too.
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
(Post 15125362)
Casper and the guys are all correct. For "Mod" anything outside of niche markets like drag racing, the RSX is still king. You simply cannot give up the CNC billet aluminum housing for heat dissipation.
Just to expand on jdearhart's question about RSX or Pro. Given we carry multiple cars and esc's, and not one that gets ran in mod and spec, is there an advantage to putting Pro's in the spec cars and keeping the RSX for mod only? No heat issues in spec.....just looking for absolute max power for Oval. Thanks for any clarification. |
RS pro will have lower on resistance and in a spec class it should out perform the RSX with more power through put and is lighter (plastic case).
The issue is you could thermal the ESC if you trying put too much sustained power though it like a low turn mod for an offroad race. It is all about picking the right tool for the job. If you run multiple classes with a car (mod for club racing stock for big races or something like that) and don't want to swap out stuff error on the RSX side to make sure it will handle whatever you want to toss at it for power. I have RS pro in my 3 offroad 13.5 cars (4wd, 2wd buggy and ST) and it runs great. |
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