Thanks for reply, important to me answered in the mail, now here is: why not rollback to the old firmware? why is the data after saving and opening shows rubbish? why removed mode limit current? it was the right setting, preserving the life of the battery.

lets do the specifics by email and if we find anything useful for others we can share it here.

We can roll back to 250 very easily, and that is what we should have done before you sent it in to compare the 2. I can send you the previous Hotwire version that has 250 in it.

Not sure why the data is not showing right once you save it. Something is getting corrupted and we are looking into it. We are not seeing problems when we look at saved data logs.

We changed current limit to the new Torque setting. They are similar, but we found a better way to do it and called it Torque to separate them. It should protect the battery better or at least as good. Both go away pretty quickly and allow full speed because it takes less current and torque once you are rolling.

I have the TrakPower station on my bench at home (it was given to me by a friend who got out of RC). However, I was looking for something that I could take to the track with me in my hauler bag. I started using a Hakko FX-601 adjustable temp soldering iron (Here's a LINK), and to be honest, it's WAY better than my soldering station.

I found it on sale on Amazon for $50......look around, I'm sure you can find a deal at some point. Regardless, it's an awesome iron, and is small enough to fit in my hauler bag. I've used it on all of my RC stuff, as well as soldering 10ga stranded copper wire on my cargo trailer when I ran new brake and ground wiring. It never skipped a beat..... :D

If you dont mind spending the extra money, the Weller soldering station is a terrific option. It has changable tips, accurate temp control with fast temp recovery, and will last a lifetime. I have the digital version which is about $40 extra, but not entirely necessary.
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-...dering+station

Regarding the temp question, you want to set the iron to just hot enough to melt your solder. That will usually be in the 600-650°F neighborhood. For the solder i am using 640 seems to do the trick.

Why?

If the iron is hotter, there will be a higher temperature gradient from the iron to the part and the heat will transfer to the joint faster, thus meaning less time you have to hold the iron on the wire post to get it hot enough to flow the solder. That means less time for heat to flow down the post into the circuit board.

I get joints flowed like this (the wire is pre-tinned and squeezed to fit the slot in the post) from a much hotter iron applied for 1-2 seconds:

http://www.ta455.net/ebaypics/Misc/r...ed-c-small.jpg

(Forgive the fuzz :lol: - left over strands from a q-tip used to clean off the flux)

http://www.ta455.net/ebaypics/Misc/r...ed-a-small.jpg

ta_man - in my experience it really isn't necessary. If you have to hold the heat on the part for more than 3 seconds (provided you tinned the tip) you are either not hot enough or have the wrong tip in your gun (ie pencil tip vs chisel ). 650° is plenty hot enough to accomplish this. If you are in and out in 2-3 seconds i wouldn't worry about heat soak at all, even on the most delicate of electronics. Now if you are going 7-8 seconds with heat on you are cooking something and you should be worried.

Some folks do like to run the temperature on up and there is nothing wrong with that per se, so long as your technique is correct and you remove the heat asap. *Removed statement, I made someone cry* I have run that high before to tin thick wire. Its really situational.

*removed other statement that made someone cry*

Got an issue with my RX8 G2. I had some nasty wrecks, so... I hooked it up and the only way it will move is if I push it. I tried different motors, batteries, and sensor wires, nothing gives. It takes off real weak as well, and makes a cogging noise.

Time to change brands my friend... New RX8's are build on Fridays and Mondays only in the remote hills of china by 12yo.:lol: I had 3 going bad in a 3 month period and my only survivor is a 2 year old rx8 gen2.

Did you use the on board sensor tester to assure you're getting your sensors to report to the ESC?

I agree a lot of problem in rx8 Gen 2 in Tekno Nation FB they posted lot of burning ESC. I have rx8 Gen2 before but sold it never go back the new XR8's is amazing brake also smooth like orion.

I have no idea about how to get that to work. Please let me know how to go about doing it. I have the original paper work that came with the esc, so I will check that and see if it is in there, thanks.

platgof- you will find it in the manual, look for the header "Important LED Codes" and the is also on the web site under Support / ESC Codes. The web site has an expanded version.
Good Luck with the troubleshooting

I'm pretty sure he's talking about when everything is on and running, spin the motor by hand and the esc light should light up in a certain sequence.

It is 1,2 and 6,7, so I am sending it in.

Yeah unfortunately that's usually the death code.