This isn't entirely accurate. We don't use auto detect for the 3s to 4s overlap, as it's much more common. We are primarily a racing esc company. The Rx8 was originally designed as 1/8 racing esc. As such most racers aren't swapping from 3s to 4s, or 4s to 5s,etc. This is why we chose to offer a custom LVC on it's own which can be swapped to easily with the on board button interface. Yes to set the custom setting, you do need a hotwire.

There is no patent on the math to calculate voltage.

We also don't think our uses are incapable of listening to beeps, but let's be honest here. Are our uses not capable of hitting a few buttons? The argument can be made both way.

As always however, we are listening. Now that 3s is rarely found in 1/8 racing as it did early on, perhaps it's time to revisit this feature for future software update consideration.

Thanks for the input.

I wont' tell you it can't be done, but I'd strongly advise against it. This is a pretty hardcore solder joint that must be flowed properly. It often requires too very hot soldering irons to get it right. Between the heavy post and super heavy PCB boards you can do more damage than good if you get it wrong.

Running the esc past LVC shouldn't have done this on it's own however. FYI.

In your experience what can cause this to happen?

Except it's not just "hitting a few buttons" if you want a 3.4V/cell cutoff.

It's "get the out the hotwire out, disconnect the fan, plug in the hotwire, start up the software, either do the arithmetic in your head or get out a calculator to multiply the desired per cell voltage cutoff by the new number of cells, and inch the custom cutoff slider to where you want it, shutdown the software unplug the hotwire, then plug in the fan again."

This reply about "hitting a few buttons" has been given consistently for years and totally ignored that fact that some people want a higher cutoff than 3.0V.

All we are asking, if you don't want to pay the license fee for the patent for calculating cell voltage, is let us set a PER CELL cutoff that the buttons will use, instead of forcing use of the hotwire for anything above 3.0V/cell. Then it will be as simple as a few buttons. Now, its not.

We've only been asking for this for years now. Personally, I've been asking for a PER CELL cutoff since 2009 when I got my first RX-8. It is such a simple feature but I've gotten tired of asking for it. If you have enough memory in the RX-8 Gen II for data logging, you certainly have enough memory to remember a per-cell cutoff besides the default. I only mentioned it again because someone else raised the subject. It can't possibly be as difficult as running the motors as smoothly as you do, or advancing timing dynamically based on RPM.

question on the hotwire software interface:

I remember in the past it was black on red and being part color blind I had issues with seeing that very well. Is this still the case or do they offer a more easy on the eyes version now?

the UI is still somewhat the same. there's also the android app you can use which looks a little cleaner you just need an OTG cable.

Damage to the esc itself. IF you hold the heat onto the post/pcb for long periods of time it will wick into other parts of the esc and potentially "flow" other joints.

The heat needs to be applied quickly, intensely and removed as soon as a good joint takes its hold.

As I have already stated, we've heard you and now that the racing scene has gotten away from 3s, etc we can make this change.

While I realize this maybe hard to swallow, there are very few complaints about the LVC setup we currently use. I know, hard to believe.

That however DOESN'T take away from the fact that Tekin is known for listening to our customers and making adjustments.

Fun Fact: The White Rx8 Gen2 housing was a direct result of the feedback we received at RCX 2 years ago before it's release to the public.

well, since you guys take your customers advice I would like a "White" edition motor to go with the white case. Maybe even ofter custom "etching" on the motor too for a price!

Lastly, if you guys have the ability to make an easy no the eyes version of the hotwire interface, something just simple like castles setup I would love that with my issues with red on black bakgrounds or similar.

I ran this weekend at Spring Sting in Myrtle and buggy temps were 142/165 esc/motor. SCT was around 140/160. I don't know why my buggy showed an ESC temp of 190 a month ago in colder temps.

Side note, I saw the 190 using the data log on my phone. The 140/160 temps came from the data log using my computer. Don't know if this matters. I erased the data before I had a chance to see what the phone read.

I have the original Hotwire from gen 1 and I just got an rx8 gen2 combo. Are their any issues or limitations using the the older Hotwire?

I think you will really like the rx8 in the sct410. I just picked one up for myself last week for my sct410 and ran it for the first time on Saturday and absolutely loved it. The push control was just what this truck needed, it ran really smooth and no unexpected nose down issues. Extremely predictable from lap to lap, which is exactly what a I needed.

The Hotwire 2.0 on the other hand I need to work on. It does not display correctly on my laptop and is almost impossible to use.

I have a question for you guys, but maybe mostly for Mr. Pike of Team Tekin.

Is it wrong/dangerous to program the RX8 Gen2 ESC through it's RX plug and not disconnecting the fan and plugging it in that way?

As I got my RX8 and T8 Gen2 with Hotwire second hand I didn't know it had to be connected through the fan connector. I have just been using the RX plug to program mine with the hotwire and it works just fine. I am very aware of always connecting it properly so I don't end up with a reverse polarity mishaps.

If it works with just connecting through the RX plug, why bother the risk of damaging the fan connection receptical?
I have made a quick connect setup in my Durango DEX408 buggy so it's easy to disconnect the RX plug and connecting it to the Hotwire.

Shown below you see the quick connections I have made so it's easy to unplug the various devices from the RX. The black connector where you see the end of the ESC plug that's been painted white at the top and all the way down to it's base on the side of the signaling wire

Cool, so the motor then is a-ok?

Was mainly looking for the ET48 but the deal was good enough I grabbed two escs. I figure the push control is something I want to try on the sct410.3 in the future due to the nose down issue deal.

what laptop are you using and OS?

That's more than fine. The EZ Port/fan port is an option, not a requirement.