Still no luck, seems the problem is happening when I brake hard, I think it might be a transmitter problem as the little bar on the screen jumps instead of moving smoothly when I apply brakes :/

Neutral With is set to default 25

Thanks

I use a 45 watt Weller 4033S heater (really big chisel tip) that fits in a screw in handle. The rated tip temperature is 1100F (yes, over 1000). It is not temperature regulated. I pre-tin the wires, then squeeze them in a vise until they just fit in the slots. Put some flux in the slot, put the wire in the slot, flux on top of the wire, a little solder on the iron, and I can solder a post in a second or two.

High temps like this are too much for the ESC only if you hold the iron on the post for too long. I know 1100F sounds like overkill, but the hotter the tip, the faster the heat gets into the joint and the less time the heat has to get down the post to the electronics. If done correctly, it ends up being less stress on the rest of the electronics. It is essential to use flux with this technique because that gives the instant heat transfer that lets this work. I've been soldering stuff for about 50 years and this works for me.

Pic, for reference: http://s92437987.onlinehome.us/ebayp...ight-3-rx8.jpg

I'll get an iron rated for 80W, 920F. That should do the job quickly.

EDIT: @ta_man: Do you have to clean the flux off or can you leave it as is?

Randy pike you have pm

That would make sense....If you see the transmitter screen showing erratic behavior that's the sign of a bad "pot" on that channel. Time to send it in :(

Damn, hope not, it's brand new. I will take a video of the problem and post it up.

Edit: here is the link youtube.com/watch?v=HB9mPMdFiXo

When I reverse the channel it happens on the opposite side, so I don't think it's a pot problem?

Turn off the ABS (anti-lock brakes).

Ok thanks, I'll give that a try and see how it goes, do you think that could be effecting it all?

Your throttle channel should be reversed PRIOR to the radio calibration, not after.

Yes ABS can affect radio calibration in some cases.

Ok thanks I will disable abs and recalibrate when I get home.

Anybody??? :confused:

What is your neutral set at in the ESC? What radio are you using?

Yea that's looking pretty rough bro. Cold solder joints are no joke, if a battery lead comes loose and touches one of the other posts, your going to lose the ESC at a minimum, if the fire gets to your battery, you'll lose the whole car.

It took me awhile but got halfway decent using the Weller station and stock tip, but picked up one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And their 5.5mm flat tip and it made wiring up my latest ESC a breeze. Default setting is 750f and I found it worked pretty well. Hot enough to get the job done quickly and didn't need any flux to get things started just a dab of solder on the tip.

Current Limit and heat
 

There has been a healthy debate recently at our local track. When setting the current limit on an RX8 Gen2 to say 70% does that increase of decrease heat in the ESC? There are two camps one saying it would increase heat in the esc as it is needing to act as a current block others feel it should be cooler as its not allowing the motor to draw more current. This would be in an SCT or 1/8 buggy application.

I would think it would reduce heat, but depends on how the feature is actually implemented. I figured it would reduce throttle input when the current limit is reached, which would mean lower temps as the higher current never comes across the esc.