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Case point
Is the replacement case for the gen2 compatible with the gen 1? I need a new case due to cleaning and the screw heads being soft and butchered by my somewhat old phillips head screwdriver. Cheers best esc in the world just wish there was a distributor in Australia.......
Also is it safe to use an electrical cleaner on the components of the rx8? The sort that is in the pressure can and you buy from....... Oh what store over there is similar.............oh Radio Shack. Tandy etc, as the circuit boards are covered in fine dust. Cheers |
Originally Posted by Oztiger
(Post 13111861)
Is the replacement case for the gen2 compatible with the gen 1? I need a new case due to cleaning and the screw heads being soft and butchered by my somewhat old phillips head screwdriver. Cheers best esc in the world just wish there was a distributor in Australia.......
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Originally Posted by Oztiger
(Post 13111861)
Also is it safe to use an electrical cleaner on the components of the rx8? The sort that is in the pressure can and you buy from....... Oh what store over there is similar.............oh Radio Shack. Tandy etc, as the circuit boards are covered in fine dust. Cheers
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Cheers thanks for the prompt reply.
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Hi again guys!
Just raced my new gen2 last sunday.... it was good but i havent got the feeling of smooth as everyone are claiming. Maybe its my fault cause i didnt setup anything, just race it as it arrived. Im running it with a tekin 1900kv gen1 on a xray xb9e, and after the tekin gen2 i was running a viper vtx8 and i feel it way more smooth with same setup, but that esc went to the bin because the wires of the switch cutted and the esc will no longer work, so i dont wanna know nothing about viper. Can anyone tell me how i need to setup the esc to be buttery smooth? Thanks!! |
Originally Posted by patxeik
(Post 13113698)
Hi again guys!
Just raced my new gen2 last sunday.... it was good but i havent got the feeling of smooth as everyone are claiming. Maybe its my fault cause i didnt setup anything, just race it as it arrived. Im running it with a tekin 1900kv gen1 on a xray xb9e, and after the tekin gen2 i was running a viper vtx8 and i feel it way more smooth with same setup, but that esc went to the bin because the wires of the switch cutted and the esc will no longer work, so i dont wanna know nothing about viper. Can anyone tell me how i need to setup the esc to be buttery smooth? Thanks!! |
Originally Posted by patxeik
(Post 13113698)
Hi again guys!
Just raced my new gen2 last sunday.... it was good but i havent got the feeling of smooth as everyone are claiming. Maybe its my fault cause i didnt setup anything, just race it as it arrived. Im running it with a tekin 1900kv gen1 on a xray xb9e, and after the tekin gen2 i was running a viper vtx8 and i feel it way more smooth with same setup, but that esc went to the bin because the wires of the switch cutted and the esc will no longer work, so i dont wanna know nothing about viper. Can anyone tell me how i need to setup the esc to be buttery smooth? Thanks!! |
4 Attachment(s)
I just soldered the motor wires on my RX8 Gen2 and have a few questions. The wire was about 1.5 inches long and was not too hot to hold. The posts were not too hot to hold either but the heatsink was too hot to hold for more than 7-8 seconds. The posts feel fine and a tug test did not pull the posts out either. Should I be worried about damage to the board or can I continue?
EDIT: I pre-tinned the wires and posts. I used flux to tin the wires but not while soldering the wires to the posts since I was worried the flux would damage the posts. I was using a 40W iron. |
It looks like the solder didn't flow into the wires very well but if they can't pull off then they should be OK.
You don't want the words too short, you want a bend in them so the chassis can flex and there's no strain on the wires. Google "YouTube Randy Pike RX8" and you'll find his short video on soldering the ESC. |
I think it happened because I was holding the wire with pliers. The wire that looks better than the rest was held by hand. I'll take extra care with my battery wires.
The wires have enough length in them to allow flex. I'm using bullets and once the connections are made, there should be enough slack to let the wires move around when the chassis flexes. What would you say about the heat? Are there any immediate physical signs that indicate overheating? I've seen Randy's video and it's helpful. I can re-solder the wires but the connections are solid. |
Originally Posted by iamahuman
(Post 13157623)
I just soldered the motor wires on my RX8 Gen2 and have a few questions. The wire was about 1.5 inches long and was not too hot to hold. The posts were not too hot to hold either but the heatsink was too hot to hold for more than 7-8 seconds. The posts feel fine and a tug test did not pull the posts out either. Should I be worried about damage to the board or can I continue?
EDIT: I pre-tinned the wires and posts. I used flux to tin the wires but not while soldering the wires to the posts since I was worried the flux would damage the posts. I was using a 40W iron. See my video: here |
I'll redo them as suggested. Thanks for the help guys. I might replace the tip on my iron just for safety. On the topic of flux, should I be using it? If so, what would happen if I don't clean it off with alcohol?
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Honestly I don't use any flux here. It can help don't get me wrong, but it's not required. A hot medium to large tip is ideal for heat transfer which is key here. You want to get the post and wire to flow together and when properly tinned as you can see in my video, takes only a few seconds.
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I'll try and follow your video down to the last detail. Thanks again. :)
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gen2 case fit the gen1?
Originally Posted by yzracer758
(Post 13111871)
Yes it will work, all that is needed is the hole for the fan port will need to be made larger to make way for the different shape fan port on the Gen 1 RX8.
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