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Official Tekin RS GEN2 1/10 ESC Thread

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Old 07-28-2016, 09:02 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Official Tekin RS GEN2 1/10 ESC Thread
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Last edit by: Randy_Pike
This “wiki” provides all the information that you will need to understand your Tekin Brushless ESC settings. This will be updated with any changes as needed. We will list the settings “per tab” as you go through the Tekin Hotwire interface either on Windows, Android, or Apple.

The latest software can always be found HERE

The “Dashboard” is a screen shot or area where you will see all your settings in one place. It’s a great place to take quick look at your settings. You will see this first when plugging into a Tekin ESC. Note that you can “mouse over” on any of the settings by simply putting your mouse pointer onto the text of the setting you want to learn more about. Once you’re in one of the five “tabs” you can also “right click” on any of the sliders to see the corresponding default LED settings.

Dashboard Buttons:

Data Logs:

The Data Logs button will initiate the Data Logs interface and allow the user to read, download, and save data logs. For more info on this click HERE.

Online Help:

Clicking this button will take you to the Tekin FAQ section of our website.
Show Defaults:

Clicking this button will show the default ESC settings for the ESC connected. If you want to simply “reset” the esc clicking on this then “Apply Settings” will apply the default settings.

Current Settings:

Clicking this button will show the “current” settings programmed into the ESC.

Apply Settings:

Clicking this button will “Apply” any setting changes that the user may have selected while connected to the ESC.

Advanced:

Clicking the Advanced button will expand the Hotwire interface allowing the user to see the “Current Version” of software installed in the ESC. It will also show “Other Versions” if any are available for the ESC. The current ESC connected will also be shown.

Setup Tab:

Lipo Cut Off:

The top box that is default “3.2” is the “per cell” voltage you can program. By default Tekin sets this to 3.2v which is the industry accepted standard for voltage cut off per cell.

The Slider allows you to set the “cell count” to the proper setting. 1 for 1 cell, 2 for 2 cell, so on and so forth. Note: we do not have an “auto” setting so be sure to set the proper cell count.

Motor Type:

The slider allows you to choose what motor type you want. The first three are for brushless motors, the last 3 are for brushed motors on all brushless Tekin ESC’s.

Setup Notes:

This section allows the user to save his/her profile with a full complement of notes. You can then save this profile on your own device, share with others via email, etc.

Reverse Motor:

This check box simply reverses the motor direction for models that may require it.

1s Lipo:

This check box should be selected anytime the ESC is running with a 1s lipo battery. It will adjust the start/end rpm’s on all preloaded boosted profiles as well as other optimizations in the ESC.

Fan Auto/Always On:

These to radio circles allow the user to choose how the fan is controlled. By default as of Apex 255 the fan is “always on” which allows the coming Blue Tooth module to connect anytime you want. Choosing “Fan Auto On” will only turn the fan on briefly when powered up, then on as the ESC requires which initiates it at approximately 140f.

Online Setups:

Clicking this takes you to our website setup page where you can find team drivers setups.

Load Setup:

Clicking this will open up a window where all your stored/saved setups are saved(default).

Save Setup:

Fill out the “Setup Notes” area and then save your favorite setups right onto your device(Only Windows at this time).

Export Setup:

Clicking this “exports” your current setup to your “My Documents” folder on your device(Only Windows PC at this time).

Brake Tab:

Drag Brake:

Drag brake also none as “coast brake” or “auto brake” is braking power applied by the ESC anytime the ESC sees a valid neutral signal from the transmitter. The higher the value, the more drag brake is applied. You can drag the slider up/down and or right click to see the default LED settings which you would get from using the on board button selections. Note: on some radios a “neutral width” setting that is too low may cause erratic Drag Brake operation.

Brake Strength:

Brake Strength is the total brake power the ESC will provide the motor. Higher values will give more power, vice versa for lower settings. Note: Prior to 255 using the buttons on this setting would also adjust reverse speed.

Push Control:

Push Control is the opposite of Drag Brake. This setting will add an “active” amount of “creep” or “coast” to the motor. The higher the value, the more “push” the motor will be given which can negate motor cog torque, excessive drive train drag, or simply help a car gain more corner speed. This setting is only “active” while the ESC receives a valid neutral signal. The longer WOT or “wide open throttle” is seen by the esc, the more “push” the user will receive. This allows for slower corners to feel the same as a high speed sweeper. Note: on some radios a “neutral width” setting that is too low may cause erratic Push Control operation.

Brake Minimum:

Brake Minimum or “initial brake” is the minimum brake power the ESC will apply to the motor when the user induces a brake application also known as “push brake”. If you want a stronger initial brake “hit” use a higher value. Use a lower value or 0 to have a softer brake application.

Active Brake:

Active Brake is a setting that provides additional brake power when the user initiates a rapid brake input or “panic brake.” Smooth brake applications of the brake are NOT affected. This setting can be useful in off-road where you may need extra brake power to “snap” down the attitude of the car over jumps; for example in 2wd SC Truck but do not want your regular “push brake” power affected.

Brake Frequency:

Brake Frequency changes the pulse width being applied during braking. In general higher frequencies provide a softer brake power/feel with a more usable range of trigger motion allowing for better brake modulation while keeping full brake power overall. Lower frequency gives stronger brakes with a stronger overall feel.

Throttle Tab:

Neutral Width:

Neutral Width adjusts the ESC’s sensitivity to the neutral signal the radio system provides. Lower settings will provide a much more sensitive trigger feel. Higher settings will allow for a little trigger travel before engaging throttle or brake. Note: Setting that are too low for a particular radios system may cause erratic Drag Brake, Push Control, or even “arming” issues. If you experience any of these, try increasing your Neutral Width setting first.

Torque Level:

Torque Level replaces the “Current Limiter” setting found in software prior to 255. Torque adjusts the amount of force the motor generates under heavy acceleration. Higher values provide more torque, lower values provide less torque. Settings as low as 4, 5 or 6 are very good in loose conditions with mod motors. 7 and 8 feel good in high bite. In Spec racing you will likely set it to 10 and max torque if there is decent traction. You can only set 4 to 10 on the unit, but you can set 1 to 10 in the HW. On the unit led 1 is torque level 4, led 7 is torque level 10 and max.

Reverse Speed:

Reverse Speed adjust the amount of power in reverse. Higher values will give more power and speed while in reverse, lower values less power and speed. Note: If Brake Strength is later adjusted using the on board buttons, Reverse Speed settings set via the Hotwire will be discarded.

Throttle Minimum:

Throttle Minimum “initial power” is the minimum throttle power the ESC will apply to the motor when the user induces a throttle application. If you want a stronger initial throttle “hit” use a higher value. Use a lower value or 0 to have a softer throttle application. For Spec racing this setting will increase “punch” feel.

In general higher frequencies provide a softer brake power/feel with a more usable range of trigger motion allowing for better brake modulation while keeping full brake power overall. Lower frequency gives stronger brakes and it happens earlier in the trigger motion with a stronger overall feel.

Throttle Frequency:

Throttle Frequency changes the pulse width being applied during throttle application. In general higher frequencies provide a softer throttle power/feel with a more usable range of trigger motion allowing for better throttle modulation while keeping full throttle power overall. Lower frequency gives stronger throttle with a stronger overall feel.

Reverse Delay:

Reverse Delay allows the user to choose how long he/she must wait in neutral until reverse power is available to be applied to the motor. The lower the setting, the less time is required to spend at neutral before reverse power is applied. More time will help protect the drivetrain of the car preventing wear and tear.

Timing Tab:

Timing Profile (RS Gen2, RSX, Rx8 Only)

There are 7 default Timing Profiles. RS Gen2 and RSX provide 5 default profiles starting with zero timing spec or “blinky” mode as well as 4 other Timing Profiles with increasing amounts of boost timing. Timing Profile C1 and C2 are “custom” or user programmable profiles which are stored inside the esc and allow the user to change from or to these using the on board button interface once they’re programmed. Note that C1is a “Sensored only” profile by default, and C2 is a “D2 dual mode” profile.

If the user selects one of the two available Timing Profiles you will gain access to additional sliders described below.

Timing Profile C1 is a “Sensored only” profile and gives the user the following additional adjustments:

Boost:

Boost is additional timing which is applied to the motor using the Start and End RPM’s set by the user. More timing will increase the KV of a motor, less timing or no timing will reduce the KV. Note: Excessive timing may cause damage to the motor, use caution.

Turbo:

Turbo is additional motor timing which is applied to the motor and is activated by the user hitting WOT or “wide open throttle” once the “turbo delay” time has expired. Note: Excessive timing may cause damage to the motor, use caution.

Turbo Delay:

Turbo Delay is the amount of time spent at WOT or “wide open throttle” the ESC must see form the transmitter before Turbo Timing will be supplied to the motor. Lower delay settings apply Turbo Timing sooner, higher settings provide more delay.

Turbo Ramp Rate:

Turbo Ramp Rate is the rate in which Turbo Timing is applied to the motor. Higher values apply Turbo Timing quicker than lower settings.

Dual Mode/Sensored Only/Locked Spec Mode:

These three check boxes determine the drive mode type between D2 Dual™ mode, Sensored Only Mode, or Locked Spec Mode. D2 Dual™ is good for low turn modified motor and all 4 pole motor applications. Sensored Only mode is used for all stock and modified applications where grip is not an issue. Locked Spec Mode is for large events that would like the ability of the Tekin default Timing Profiles to be disabled on the on board interface. Note both the default Spec mode and Locked Spec mode are ROAR approved.

Curves Tab:

The Curves slider provides default throttle curves and comes defaulted in “linear.” It also provides 4 additional positive and negative curves as well as two user programmable curves.

Other Features and Release notes:

A User Remote Data Log Erase feature allows you to remotely clear the stored data log. This must be selected in the Data Log. Go to “Logging, Sample Rate, check the Data Remote Erase” and then click Save Settings. Once set if you hold brake on for 4 to 5 sec you will hear a short chime when the data logs are erased and you are ready to go. Note: EPA’s must be set to 100% for this to work properly.

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Old 07-27-2016, 10:51 PM
  #301  
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Originally Posted by AndiF
Hi guys, need some help. Tried to search for this issue but was not able to find anything which helps in the 20 pages of this thread...

I'm using the RS Gen2 in 2WD buggy with the Tekin Gen3 13.5T RPM Motor. A couple of weeks ago, when freshly installing the brand new ESC into that buggy, the car worked perfectly for about one run. After that, the ESC seemed not to accelerate smoothly anymore. For about a second, no torque or RPM are applied, after that the power bursts almost full throtttle. We did reset the ESC, re-calibrate several times with no solution to the problem.
When applying throttle very smoothly, the motor makes a distinctive sound but is not moving at all, only when applying more throttle, the sound stops and the motor starts to move in a burst. As if the first throttle "step" is not working anymore so that the ESC is "jump starting" to the second level immediately.
I have explained this problem to Tekin and they allowed me to send in the ESC, what I did. This ESC is currently at Tekin for servicing since last week.

Why I'm writing here is because yesterday, the exact same thing happened with the other ESC I installed to replace the other mentioned above! This time, it happened after changing a setting on the ESC. After switching the ESC back on, it "bursted" almost at full throttle immediately. Re-calibrating left it with the same symptoms as described above: no torque or RPM applied in the first "step" of throttle, then bursting immediately to the next step, no smooth acceleration possible anymore...

Somewhere in this thread there was a similar problem described, where it has been suggested to set neutral width to 10 and minimum throttle to 8 - 10. We tried this as well, with no result.

Does anybody have had the same issues or know where this is coming from and/or how to solve it?

Thanks in advance for any help!
Andy

PS: firmware installed on both ESC is the 255...
Have you checked the sensor cable is talking properly? There is a Tekin video on how to do this on YouTube
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


First thing I check if it's a bit funny. 2 times replacing cable has fixed it. Sensitive little things.
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:52 PM
  #302  
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Can't find anywhere how you measure mah used as per Randy's recommendation.
Besides an eagle etree logger. Do you guys have any idea?
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:56 PM
  #303  
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Originally Posted by Volition
Have you checked the sensor cable is talking properly? There is a Tekin video on how to do this on YouTube
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


First thing I check if it's a bit funny. 2 times replacing cable has fixed it. Sensitive little things.
Thanks for your quick reply. Yes, checked and even replaced twice to make sure it's not the sensor cable...did not help unfortunately...
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Old 07-27-2016, 11:03 PM
  #304  
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Originally Posted by AndiF
Thanks for your quick reply. Yes, checked and even replaced twice to make sure it's not the sensor cable...did not help unfortunately...
Aaah I've got an idea. The lights on the ESC match the throttle input.

You should see more lights as your throttle input increases. Check this is working properly. If it is working properly e.g 1 light 10% 2 lights 20% - you can assume your radio is talking properly. And the issue is with the ESC.
Lights not working properly- I'd guess it is 99% a radio-receiver issue.

FYI it also works for brakes/reverse the lights go in the other direction.

Last edited by Volition; 07-27-2016 at 11:04 PM. Reason: Reverse.
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Old 07-27-2016, 11:19 PM
  #305  
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Originally Posted by Volition
Aaah I've got an idea. The lights on the ESC match the throttle input.

You should see more lights as your throttle input increases. Check this is working properly. If it is working properly e.g 1 light 10% 2 lights 20% - you can assume your radio is talking properly. And the issue is with the ESC.
Lights not working properly- I'd guess it is 99% a radio-receiver issue.

FYI it also works for brakes/reverse the lights go in the other direction.
Thanks again for your quick reply. Yes, that's correct. We checked this and the lights are working properly on the ESC. We see the first light coming up and the motor makes this strange sound I mentioned, but no torque or RPM applied. When the second light comes up while pulling the trigger further, the motor bursts immediately to this level of throttle/power...
So it appears to be an ESC issue, yes, agree to your statement above...
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Old 07-27-2016, 11:26 PM
  #306  
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Definitely sounds like a sensor issue. Maybe the board in the motor or sensor connectors? Try a different motor. If a different motor works fine. Then you can be sure it's the sensor board in the motor. 1 variable at a time.
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Old 07-27-2016, 11:44 PM
  #307  
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Originally Posted by Volition
Definitely sounds like a sensor issue. Maybe the board in the motor or sensor connectors? Try a different motor. If a different motor works fine. Then you can be sure it's the sensor board in the motor. 1 variable at a time.
You're right, however, sensor board in the motor has been changed already and motor itself has been changed as well, since the change of the sensor board did not help. Using another Gen3 13.5T did not give any other result. Same for a Nosram 10.5T...issues still there...

PS: by the way, we changed Tx and Rx and servo as well, as we initially thought it could be a transmitting problem or an interference problem from the servo. Nothing helped...

Last edited by AndiF; 07-27-2016 at 11:57 PM.
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Old 07-28-2016, 12:48 AM
  #308  
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
Plug in ONLY the Hotwire and launch the app. Hit "help" and what version is shown?
Randy, Version says "10.2.0"

BTW, on install, windows say version "10.26.0"
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Old 07-28-2016, 01:54 AM
  #309  
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New to Tekin. Have an RSX but am running it currently with a 17.5 so thought it would make more sense posting here. And I haven't seen any setup sheets yet.


Anyone have any notable settings for best performance in 17.5 blinky 2wd buggy? Run medium size tracks mid/high - high grip. Starting RPM... Etc? Thx much!
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Old 07-28-2016, 02:39 AM
  #310  
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Originally Posted by AndiF
You're right, however, sensor board in the motor has been changed already and motor itself has been changed as well, since the change of the sensor board did not help. Using another Gen3 13.5T did not give any other result. Same for a Nosram 10.5T...issues still there...

PS: by the way, we changed Tx and Rx and servo as well, as we initially thought it could be a transmitting problem or an interference problem from the servo. Nothing helped...
You'll have to check with Randy. Weird.
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Old 08-02-2016, 03:33 AM
  #311  
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I'm having problems installing the new software 255 into my rsx. Everytime I conect the esc and hotwire to the computer it tells me that it needs to be updated. So I follow the procedure and it says that it's been updated. However none of the new fetures shows up and I can't use the "advance" buttom. If I shut it down and upen again it's the same thing over again. I run windows 10 and have a v1 hotwire interface. When I connect the hotwire to the computer it tells me that I have version 10.8!

Any ideas what's wrong?
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Old 08-02-2016, 11:02 AM
  #312  
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Originally Posted by Volition
Can't find anywhere how you measure mah used as per Randy's recommendation.
Besides an eagle etree logger. Do you guys have any idea?
Really easy.

When you run your car, pull the battery out and toss it on the charger. Once the battery is fully charged note the mah that went back into it.

Then take the minutes you ran and use that value to divide it into the mah used.

6 minute run and say you burned 1800mah. You're setup is netting you 300mah per minute.
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Old 08-02-2016, 11:04 AM
  #313  
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Originally Posted by AndiF
Thanks again for your quick reply. Yes, that's correct. We checked this and the lights are working properly on the ESC. We see the first light coming up and the motor makes this strange sound I mentioned, but no torque or RPM applied. When the second light comes up while pulling the trigger further, the motor bursts immediately to this level of throttle/power...
So it appears to be an ESC issue, yes, agree to your statement above...
Anytime we see an odd issue the first step is to do a factory reset on the unit. This is done by powering it up and holding down both buttons for 4-5 seconds. The unit will go through a boot and chime sequence. Once done do NOTHNG other than a radio calibration to test the system.

Result?
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Old 08-02-2016, 11:04 AM
  #314  
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Originally Posted by 3n90t
Randy, Version says "10.2.0"

BTW, on install, windows say version "10.26.0"
To be running the latest Hotwire software, you should see 10.26.0
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Old 08-02-2016, 11:27 AM
  #315  
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Originally Posted by JAE
New to Tekin. Have an RSX but am running it currently with a 17.5 so thought it would make more sense posting here. And I haven't seen any setup sheets yet.


Anyone have any notable settings for best performance in 17.5 blinky 2wd buggy? Run medium size tracks mid/high - high grip. Starting RPM... Etc? Thx much!
This is what I'm running right now.
Attached Thumbnails Official Tekin RS GEN2 1/10 ESC Thread-randy-pike-17.5-stock-buggy.jpg  
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