So, you guys are thinking these really are good motors? I mean, if you view a motor as basically a throw away item, why ever spend money on the brand names? I'm thinking of picking up two of them, burning them all summer in outdoor season and if they don't last, well, it's only $35 instead of 3X that for another motor brand.

I did pick up a 17.5 and plan to try it in boosted stock class this weekend. Hopefully it lasts but it sounds like you all are having good luck with the silver can versions.

they generate a little more heat than the brand names kv for kv so unless you are running on the ragged edge of gearing trying to achieve something out of the normal operating range then these are fine. If you are trying to build a super car or overvolt one for short bursts to do some out of ordinary runs then no these would not be the motors for that. However, specialty projects typically cost money and people that do that are not doing it on a budget. I bought a couple of these to build a couple cars for my daughters and in general see or feel no difference with the CC's I have which are matched up specwise (2x 2200kv in 2 x truggy, 2 x 2650kv in 2 x buggy, 1 trackstar and 1 cc of each)

I am running the silver 10.5T motor with a Brushless Hobbies 120A ESC in my HPI Blitz, and so far it has been awesome. It is really smooth even without a sensor cable, and it is very fast and strong. I would highly recommend this motor.

I have used the Trackstar 17.5 in stock class blinky and this motor is excellent for the price. I would recommend it to anyone starting out with a budget! Tekin RS was the ESC I had to drive it. Nice motor!

I have a NIB Trackstar 6.5 that I am looking to sell. Not going to race mod so I don't need it. New in box with sensor wire. Haven't even opened so factory tape still there. $35 shipped PayPal in USA.

PM me if you want it.

Thanks Seth

6.5 red or silver can

I have been running the 8.5 red can trackstar motor in my sct with great success. Will be testing some of the turnigy turbo speed controls soon. Will post my feedback.

Well yesterday I got to test my red can trackstar 1900kv motor in my mugen buggy and I have to say im a little disapointed.. It had plenty of power, I was a little surprised how much power it had but it built up so much heat it got up to 210 degrees after about a 12 minute run.. Which I wasnt pleased about.. and I only had a 16t pinion in it.. It was a big outdoor track and it was only about 60 degrees outside.. I might try to go down a tooth on the pinion but it felt great just like it is and everyone else i know runs 16t with 1900kv in the mugen so i dont know.. I guess i will just have to figure something out because when it gets 90-100 degrees out this motor is not going to last lol One good thing is my esc didnt get even warm. Also i had a tekin 1900kv in my brothers 8ight 2.0 e buggy and his motor only got up to about 120 degrees and he has a 15t pinion so i might just switch pinions and see how it goes.. This motor is GREAT and ran just as good as the tekin besides the heat problems.. So thats how my test went.

I raced my silver can 17.5 in our boosted stock class AND in mod class on Saturday and it was very good. In fact, I let a local TLR driver try my car and he said, "is this a stock or mod motor?" I'll be trying out their mod motors next, for sure.

I think your motor is hot because you are undergeared. Gear it up so it doesnt have to rev so much. Hot motor/ cold esc = gear up. Cold motor/hot esc = gear down. Had the same problem with a silvercan 7.5t. Have to gear it much higher than say a Novak 7.5t, but boy does it fly.

Ok ill try gearing it up.. Thanks for the advice. I only have a 18t pinion I dont have a 17t so I will try the 18t and see if I see any improvements.

This advise could be wrong, depending on the situation. In general, if the motor is running hot, you gear down, not up. Now as you say, if you are severely undergeared then gearing up would be the right way to go.

BTW, I ran the red Trackstar 1900kv motor in my Losi e-truggy last night for the first time. Was decently impressed for a $60 motor. This was on a big 1/8th scale size track (Mikes in Houston). It's hard packed covered outdoor though, so no wheel spin. Temps were ~155f by the time I would make it back to the pits after a 7 minute qualifier. So I'm guessing about 175f at the end of the qualifier. I started out the night with a 12/45 pinion and spur combination. Way undergeared. In the end I settled on a 15/45 combo. Seemed to be the sweet spot.

I finally ruined one of my 17.5T Trackstar motors in my touring car. A few weeks ago, we had a really fast track setup. I went up six teeth on my pinion! It was running about 170 after about 10 minutes. Then, we switched up the track to a much slower and tighter track. I ran it for about 20 minutes during practice and was wondering what the smell was. HA! It was at 230 degrees F by the time I got it back to the pits and got my body off. Even then, it still lasted for a few more weeks. The sensor board was getting intermittent and causing some cogging as slow speeds. It was still running strong during a race though. I had a spare 17.5T and I put it in yesterday. Ran it for 20 minutes and was at 140 degrees. I love these motors.

Picked up a 1900kv sensored motor recently. Looks nice but unfortunately the sensor board wasn't working properly in the motor right out of the box. Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't and caused the ultra cog high temp lockup you get when a sensor fails.

Took the sensor board out and noticed the soldering wasn't all that great so I took an iron and reheated\touched up the solder points...seems to have fixed it so far. Time will tell though. The sensor board looks a lot like the T8...I'd guess that the Tekin board would bolt right in.

The motor itself makes smooth power, will have to see how it holds up in the long run.

Received a silver can 8.5t and a 10.5t this morning. Soldered up the 8.5t and wacked it in my truck, wasn't terribly impressed really. Being a 540 can 4600kv 8.5t I figured it should absolutely wreck my 380 can 4300kv '9t'.. But it doesn't, not even close. The 380 4300kv is much, much faster. Quicker off the line, way more punch and a noticeably better top speed.

What gives?

Ciao to all,


i'll like to change the rotor with one with a dia of 12.3 or 12.0 mm, do you know which brand is compatible? I tested the lipotech ones, but such rotor doesn't fitt

CIao n tnks
Max