I have kept up with sponsored drivers with way higher priced electronics than mine. I have had great luck with turnigy batteries. Anybody can tell you c rating is complete bs. There is at most only about a 1-2 mph diffrence between budget brands and high priced batteries. $200 for an extra mph more just doesn't make sense.

Look, im not knocking your abilities or your choices but by looking at the vehicles in your sig, i see you run a lot of off road. Off road requires a smooth throttle finger where as on road(what i mainly run) you stab the throttle as quickly as possible. On road puts more load (especially four wheel drive touring cars) on batteries and can weed out weaknesses of different batteries. Especially with spec or blinky classes. I used to buy cheaper lipos until a fellow racer(really fast guy) lets me run his cells and i was like holy $hit! there was so much punch my motor gearing needed to be adjusted to maximize power delivery. I recommend asking someone from your club to maybe run one of their premium cells and maybe(I emphasize maybe) you'll see the difference.if you don't think so, thats your opinion and you are definitely entitled to it. Im not saying buying the best batteries will get you on the podium, but it'll get you closer to getting on the podium. plus if anyone is buying 200.00 dollar packs, they're crazy. My cap is a hundred bucks.

But at the end of the day, to each is own. Piece

Offroad vs onroad is where i could justify paying a little more. Like you said offroad is about staying smooth on the throttle and just in general. Even so, there are a few jumps where you really need to lay down some throttle. My turnigy's work fine and my motor makes more than enough power than i use (have it at only 75% throttle) so i don't have to go all out on batteries. Now that you said your cap was $100 that seems very reasonable for your purposes. Even though i may have given you the impression i run cheap stuff, the truth is i really dont. Just shelled out the cash for a brand new mmp and futaba 4pl. I will most likely invest in a $600 losi 8ight e 2.0 roller, $120 savox servo, and a $330 tekin rx-8 system in the near future. Batteries are the only "cheap" item i really haven't had problems with.

Ive had good luck with turnigy and gen ace also bad luck with both. quality control can be lacking but for $20 bucks who can complain. still doesnt change one of the fastest guys at my track runs a fly sky radio and china lipos

That's just wishful thinking. You must be lucky to get what you pay for.
Generally I have found that I have way more problems with more expensive electronics. I know it is not a statistically significant sample, but still leaves a bitter taste and indicates that not all is well.

Here we go again! I'm not here to argue with everyone that chooses economic equipment. I'm just saying I've been down that road and it didn't work for me. Buying premium equipment has worked better for me. Sure ive had things fail over the span of a decade of racing but usually premium products come with good tech support. The batteries that I buy come with a two year warranty, try and get that from the econo packs. Just saying.

Deja viau, my friend runs the cheap stuff, flysky radio, turnigy's and hobbywing, and he always keeps up with the sponsored losi/tekin guys @ our track. I recently made the switch from a flysky to a futaba 4pl and it is worlds better, the response amd feel makes my vehicles much easier to drive, where as with the flysky, i would have to react before the corner or jump because the latency is so slow.

i am on the fence as a shop owner i dont like them, but i had to try them I got 4 of them

1 shorted out 3 are still ok. One is smelling burnt.


so in the long term it equals about the same investment with loss

OK Bump to the top. I found the problem. The negative tab is ripped in two. Probably got pulled at some point. So now what? Any tips (Pun there ) on how to solder it?