I tried and failed to get the unsigned LRP driver to work on windows 8, I managed to get it installed google "win 8 disable driver signature enforcement" and follow, you may have more luck than me. Still need to keep my crappy netbook with xp starter for this reason.

Installed and runs ok on my win8.1 Sony laptop

must be user error :)

I'll have to try again, I have a vaio pro 13 (first batch, with all the problems)

I have an LRP Flow WorksTeam, and a Reedy Sonic 540 Mach 2 17.5T motor, and it appears like the temperature measurement feature doesn't work?

Is it limited only to certain motors? How can I tell which ones? Or am I doing something wrong? Damaged sensor cable?

Thanks in advance!

It is limited to certain motors, usually LRP motors, I would say Nosram motors as well.

hi guys

i have a question. i just update my Lrp flow with v5.4 software and after that i re-calibrate the esc. afther the calibration process, the esc stuck at neutral all the time. i cant accelerate or break. the light always blue.
prior to update, the esc and motor work fine!
anyone experience this before?

thx

did you reset the ESC to factory settings after the upgrade ?

Bricked my ESC the same way after follow the instruction. I tried several times and have a couple hours invested in re-flashing it and never got it to work again. There were a couple others on this thread with that same issue but I'm not sure if any of them ever got theirs working again either.

fwiw I was updating to v4.7 at the time. And, yes I did reset the ESC to factory settings, or at least tried but once it was stuck it never came back.

I do now have a very nice Hobbywing that was pretty easy to set up.

See if the below helps.

RESET SPEED CONTROL TO FACTORY SETTINGS AFTER SOFTWARE UPDATE. MUST BE EXECUTED AFTER EACH SOFTWARE UPDATE!
Switch on the transmitter, then press and hold SET button while switching on the speed control. This will set speed control to factory default settings.
CALIBRATE SPEED CONTROL TO TRANSMITTER. MUST BE EXECUTED AFTER EACH SOFTWARE UPDATE!
Connect the speed control to the battery and switch it on. Hold SET button pressed for at least 3sec.
• Blue Led flashing. Leave transmitter in neutral position and press the SET button  Neutral saved.
• Yellow Led flashing. Hold full throttle on transmitter and press SET button  full throttle saved.
• Red Led flashing. Hold full brake on transmitter and press SET button  full brake saved.

hi guys haven't raced in a couple of years so getting up to speed over the past few weeks. Before I had a break I brought a Lrp works Flow speedo so it has factory software.. I have brought a D4 13.5 maxzilla motor. Our max gearing is 4.5. The car was not fast down the straight nor it didn't have much rip off the corner..

The orca guys were very fast..

Firstly, do you have Flow updated with the latest stock software?

Orcas are fast motors :nod:
However, I would suggest an LRP X20 which work best with the Flow
If he's running in blinky mode, adjusting Mode 2 can add more punch
A software update will improve brake feel, but not outright speed

My flow has original software on it from when I brought it.. Someone said it makes no odds to speed thou.. Or punch

So a Lrp motor with the Lrp speedo will be faster than the Lrp speedo with the D4 I thought the D4 was the fastest motor??

It just seemed the orcas had so much more rip round the infield...

Or would it just be better buying an orca orca combo?

So what has happened to all these rumours a while back about a new ESC - not a dribble of info has surfaced since the worlds - nor did it appear volker was running anything new at the recent ETS round....


Correct! Outright speed is more a function of the ability of the ESC to pass through all the current - software has little effect.

I'm soon to test this theory. I ran an x20 for most of the season, lunched it and then changed to a D4. But I bought another x20 as well, so plan to test side by side when I get a 2nd chassis in the next few weeks. Gut feel says x20 is faster when combined with the flow.