New LRP Flow Esc
#528
Hi all I just picked up a lrp flow and it was working fine for four days until today. I was at the local track and it just stopped working a blue and red light came on. Those lights mean the motor is bad or something is interrupting the driveline. None of those wore present. Are theses lrp ecs's known to have issues??? I paid 200 bucks to be sad and mad. What makes the most mad is that people who bought cheaper ecs's were talking shit about my lrp....
#529
Hi all I just picked up a lrp flow and it was working fine for four days until today. I was at the local track and it just stopped working a blue and red light came on. Those lights mean the motor is bad or something is interrupting the driveline. None of those wore present. Are theses lrp ecs's known to have issues??? I paid 200 bucks to be sad and mad. What makes the most mad is that people who bought cheaper ecs's were talking shit about my lrp....
All the error codes are listed, including the one you have stated. Have you tried the motor with another ESC?
Trev
#530
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 78
Hi all I just picked up a lrp flow and it was working fine for four days until today. I was at the local track and it just stopped working a blue and red light came on. Those lights mean the motor is bad or something is interrupting the driveline. None of those wore present. Are theses lrp ecs's known to have issues??? I paid 200 bucks to be sad and mad. What makes the most mad is that people who bought cheaper ecs's were talking shit about my lrp....
We have quite alot of these escīs over here(lrp and nosram versions) and not a single 1 has any problems. only user errors, like the sensor wire damage etc. -not saying that it is your fault, just stating that I trust these escīs. (one even soldered the abc wires to bac and it did not smoke)
One another possible error is with some motors : the temp cut activates even if the motor is not warm. The cure? -just disable the cut off from esc and it is good to go .
do these 2 things and test if it works.
-Pate
#531
Alright, Im quite fed up with this!
Under load, using my thunder power 17.5 with boost the motor stutters and will never hit boost
Does anyone have any ideas?
My gear ratio is fine, and it's driven beautifully in the past.
Thanks
Under load, using my thunder power 17.5 with boost the motor stutters and will never hit boost
Does anyone have any ideas?
My gear ratio is fine, and it's driven beautifully in the past.
Thanks
#532
Check your timing settings on the speedo. If you go to high it will stutter.
#533
#535
Tech Rookie
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 16
hi all, i went from a Xerun 120a V3 to a lrp Flow Works, with a LRP X20 4.5T... i'm having difficulties to match the Xerun settings with the LRP ones.... especially how to "CONVERT" the xerun values for boost and turbo (which are not degrees) to the lrp ones, which i understand are degress... i run with the xerun v3 with those settings :
boost : 6
boost rpm : 10.000 - 20000
turbo : 20 - activation full throttle - delay 0.2s - engage ramp 24/0.1 secs
someone cares to make a match for those settings to the flow ?
also, i miss the "neutral range" option in the xerun.... i had it at 6%, and never had a problem.. but with the lrp flow, that does not have this feature, sometime the red lights turns on/off randomly even when the trigger is free... i tried messing with the trim/subtrim in the radio (spektrum dx2s), but i cannot find a definitive solution..... mode 2 settings helps but i don't know if it's ok... i tried setting it to the lowest value, and giving a little of forward throttle trim on the radio...
also, i'm having problems with the sensor cable... i tried 4 (four !!!) differente cables, and all of them had the same problem... just touch the cable plugged in the esc, and often the flow blinks red-blu-yellow, to indicate problem with the sensor wire... for now, i just glued (yes glued) the sensor wire in the esc.... but sometimes it still goes red-blu-yellow blinking, and when that happnes while driving, the car shutters... at present, it is undriveable.... i really think that there is a design flaw here.... they shoud have designed the sensor socket more tight...
Is there a way to disable the esc/motor temperature cutoff, or at least set it to different values from stock (which i don't know what are) ? same for lipo cutoff, i hate to have a fixed 6.4v cutoff value... it's just too much....
last, what the hell does the "torque" option ? it's ok that it somehow gives more torque and efficiency, but i'm used to fully understand the settings of the esc.... lrp should really have provided some more detailed info (and some reference setuo settings....)
also, does the fan socket get current directly from the battery, or is output from the bec ? i need this info because i run a total of 1 amp of fans, and that seems too much if "stolen" from the internal bec..
and where is the equivalent of "punch" setting ? my driving style heavily relies on this parameter...
boost : 6
boost rpm : 10.000 - 20000
turbo : 20 - activation full throttle - delay 0.2s - engage ramp 24/0.1 secs
someone cares to make a match for those settings to the flow ?
also, i miss the "neutral range" option in the xerun.... i had it at 6%, and never had a problem.. but with the lrp flow, that does not have this feature, sometime the red lights turns on/off randomly even when the trigger is free... i tried messing with the trim/subtrim in the radio (spektrum dx2s), but i cannot find a definitive solution..... mode 2 settings helps but i don't know if it's ok... i tried setting it to the lowest value, and giving a little of forward throttle trim on the radio...
also, i'm having problems with the sensor cable... i tried 4 (four !!!) differente cables, and all of them had the same problem... just touch the cable plugged in the esc, and often the flow blinks red-blu-yellow, to indicate problem with the sensor wire... for now, i just glued (yes glued) the sensor wire in the esc.... but sometimes it still goes red-blu-yellow blinking, and when that happnes while driving, the car shutters... at present, it is undriveable.... i really think that there is a design flaw here.... they shoud have designed the sensor socket more tight...
Is there a way to disable the esc/motor temperature cutoff, or at least set it to different values from stock (which i don't know what are) ? same for lipo cutoff, i hate to have a fixed 6.4v cutoff value... it's just too much....
last, what the hell does the "torque" option ? it's ok that it somehow gives more torque and efficiency, but i'm used to fully understand the settings of the esc.... lrp should really have provided some more detailed info (and some reference setuo settings....)
also, does the fan socket get current directly from the battery, or is output from the bec ? i need this info because i run a total of 1 amp of fans, and that seems too much if "stolen" from the internal bec..
and where is the equivalent of "punch" setting ? my driving style heavily relies on this parameter...
Last edited by fabrc68; 06-09-2013 at 08:42 AM.
#536
I can't update my ESC I get this info:
ERROR - Port not found!
Cannot establish communication.
Please check connections & installation and restart update.
Everything is connected properly, ESC turned off and no battery connected.
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks, Lojz
ERROR - Port not found!
Cannot establish communication.
Please check connections & installation and restart update.
Everything is connected properly, ESC turned off and no battery connected.
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks, Lojz
#537
Change the sensor wire. I think that you missed the yellow light . (when all the lights flash there is a sensor problem) -I missed it too and another wire cured it.
We have quite alot of these escīs over here(lrp and nosram versions) and not a single 1 has any problems. only user errors, like the sensor wire damage etc. -not saying that it is your fault, just stating that I trust these escīs. (one even soldered the abc wires to bac and it did not smoke)
One another possible error is with some motors : the temp cut activates even if the motor is not warm. The cure? -just disable the cut off from esc and it is good to go .
do these 2 things and test if it works.
-Pate
We have quite alot of these escīs over here(lrp and nosram versions) and not a single 1 has any problems. only user errors, like the sensor wire damage etc. -not saying that it is your fault, just stating that I trust these escīs. (one even soldered the abc wires to bac and it did not smoke)
One another possible error is with some motors : the temp cut activates even if the motor is not warm. The cure? -just disable the cut off from esc and it is good to go .
do these 2 things and test if it works.
-Pate
#538
Tech Regular
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 321
#539
Hi!
Im running v1.4 and I discover that In Mode 6, Turbo Timing #3 is more powerful than #5. Anyone experienced this before? I know in the manual says its only 3 selection of Turbo Timing but actually it got 5 selection. Selection #4 will make car vibrate and the last selection is not powerful enough. Weird..
Im running v1.4 and I discover that In Mode 6, Turbo Timing #3 is more powerful than #5. Anyone experienced this before? I know in the manual says its only 3 selection of Turbo Timing but actually it got 5 selection. Selection #4 will make car vibrate and the last selection is not powerful enough. Weird..

#540
Just curious, who else runs this motor and the flow? And also, what settings is everyone running for a 17.5 boosted class?



21Likes
hope I get a working one this time because i paid good money just to be sending a speedo back and fourth