Also, I always gave the esc thermal error (yellow) even though first time I'd swear it was just the motor!?

Checked the obvious too, drivetrain is free and tried all sorts of gearing, adding motor can etc.

Anyone else used ThunderPower motors on these?

I can't tell you anything about the thunder power motors from personal experience. But I do know they that have adjustable end bell timing which is unique among 1/8 scale motors. They are the only ones I am aware of that have it. The other thing I know is that 4 pole motors are not tolerant of alot of timing advance and heat up very quickly when they go outside thier optimal range. The ix8 has built in "power" profiles that are supposed to optimize the timing and manage current. I'm not sure how it would handle a motor that isn't set to zero on the sensor board. By changing the timing on the motor and having the ix8 trying to control the timing it may be really messing the system up.

The reason this may be an issue for the ix8 vs other sensored 1/8 controllers out there is that the ix8 is 100 percent sensored. Most if the other escs are sensored for start up only and then switch over to sensorless mode once its turning so the motor end bell timing doesn't really matter as much.

I don't know if what I'm saying here is really your issue. I'm just making an educated guess. I would make sure the timing on the motor is set to true zero like most other 1:8 4 pole motors.

If a esc overheats it's fine usually. It just shuts down with the internal thermal protection and is fine again once it cools off. If the motor overheats then it's usually trashed. Once the motor gets to hot the magnets start to weaken which in turn makes the motor run with less power and create even more heat. If the motor was over 200F it's probably toast and trying to make it work will just create more issues.

As far as what temp the fan turns on at.... I don't know, I've never even installed the fan on mine. Ive never gotten it over 130 without the fan so I never bothered.

I returned my Tekin RX8/1900 combo. Wanted to try something different. I'm using it in a Ve8. Waiting on the Dynamic 8 2200kv to be available. I like the Ix8 low profile.

I think the dynamic 2200 is available, just not as a combo yet?

Would the 2200 be good in buggy on 4S? Anyone any experience of running it without problems?

Thanks, Am hoping it is just that the motor fried and that's why I then had so many issues, everything was burning up but I'll check the esc on a 540 motor and check!

Initially I had factory motor timing (15 degrees), the motor may have been dead by the time I turned it down to zero! Sometimes it would glitch out as I punched the throttle, might that be the sensor struggling to cope with the motor timing!?

I do not recommend the 2200. In our series two of us are running it in Losi 8ight (about 3700-3800g, depending on the amount of collected dirt/mud and temps are always between 85°-95° after a 10min run. One guy has the 2000kv version and his is little less hot, about 80°, so I guess that one would be better.

Temps sound pretty good on both to be honest!

Whats up dave i was at the track with you yesterday.Its Carl.Did you try taking the motor apart and seeing if the solder melted and crossed tabs or if it just melted internally.But like you said try a 540 and see how it is.

Hi Carl, I wired up a 540 (but only 13.5) on 4S last night and ran it hard unloaded to see what happened to temps (I don't really need that motor so could afford to risk it). It behaved, in that esc leveled out at high 80's whilst motor gradually warmed up to around 115...

...I then tried the TP 8th motor again and within a minute of starting it up in the bench everything was toasting again, motor and esc.

I think the motor is causing the problem, but sadly I have no idea what a page that little 540 is pulling when I kick 4s through it, in order to be sure?

My most likely thing now is get a dynamic 8 so I know they are matched up and designed for each other, then if it fails again at the weekend just go tekin esc instead!

At the worst the ix8 will do as a SC esc even if it can't handle this!

Oh, and I ran out of time last night but will tear down the TP motor tonight to check!

Couple of other quick questions to narrow down possible causes:

I was using the provided esc wires which aren't the thickest, is anyone else using these?

Lrp e8 kits seem to come with motor fans/heatsinks, anyone know part numbers? I can't find them as spares, but I really dislike the castle fan as it shrouds so much of the motor in none heat conductive plastic!

Those temps were Celsius, sorry for not being more specific originally. (185-203°F)
The manual suggests that temp shutdown is at 100°C(212°F), but doesn't say it explicitly.

Oh ok...that's pretty warm!! Have you had any thermal shutdowns?

Took the motor apart and annoyingly broke a plastic element at the back doing so so it's trash now anyway, so I ripped it up a bit to see if I could spot a problem.

Definitely no soldered leakage inside, all good there... How would I tell any other damage to the motor? Everything looked normal!

As no one else seems to be having the problem with the ix8, and I know he motor worked on another esc before, am again confused what to try.

Is there any way of me running a diagnostic on the esc? Can I somehow emulate the current draw using a 1/10 motor?

Do LRP have a USA service function where I could get it checked?

If you are going to buy another motor I have had not heat issues with the tekin 1900 or the 1700 with 4s or the tekin 1400 on 6s. ix8 runs them great.

Once the motor overheats the magnets start to get weaker which forces the motor to draw more current to generate power. Since your motor has overheated the magnet is probably weak and thats why it heats uo so fast. You wont see any difference in it. Another thing that happens if the motor is severely overheated is the insulation on the coils starts to melt and the motor develops shorts in the coils and this is when you see it smoke and it can take the esc out with it.