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Sorry to hear you didn't think the manual was intuitive. I wrote it because the original manual was hard to follow.
I have 0.6.1 and have no issues with end points in either direction. Does the steering work otherwise? Wondering if you have to calibrate the steering wheel. I never had to do that with all the upgrades I did. |
Gerry I appreciate the work you put into the manual. The only real issue I had with the manual was trying to figure out how to program/map the buttons, and what the mappings do. Other than that it's a good writeup.
I figured out how to set both endpoints. Instead of turning the wheel to switch directions, I had to pull the trigger, even for steering endpoints (Ch1). Not sure why that is but I'm fully up and running, other than mapping the buttons. |
Funny you should mention that. Figuring out how to map buttons was the primary reason I wrote the manual in the first place. The original documentation was hard to follow.
What exactly are you trying to do? Maybe I can help. |
Trying to get my Ch3 button to turn on/off a set of LEDs I have on my truck. I bought the switch below to make it possible, now just trying to get the remote to play nice.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html |
OK, I'm making some assumptions on how this switch works, but I think if the trim is 100% in one direction it's on and 100% in the other direction it's off.
To program the CH3 button on the handle to do this. When I say "scroll" I'm referring to using the silver menu selection wheel. And ENTER is pressing the silver wheel down. Press ENTER and scroll to REV and press LONG ENTER. REV should be flashing and the display should read 1 TR1. Scroll until you get C OFF (it might say C and something else) and press ENTER. C is the Ch3 button OFF should be flashing, scroll with the wheel until it says CH3 then press ENTER. So we're telling it the CH3 button should operate Channel 3 Next it will be flashing MO 0. It's asking should the change be momentary or permanent. I'm assuming you don't want to hold the button down to turn on the lights, so leave it at MO 0 and press ENTER At this point you probably don't need to change anything else so you can press the END button. And then press END again to get out of the selection menu. When you push the CH3 button, the display should read Channel 3: 100 or -100 and alternative between these 2 values when you push the button. Be aware if any of the menu items are selected, the button won't work. You have to press END to get out of the menu. I'm not sure if 100 or -100 is off to this switch. So if the lights turn on automatically when you power on the car, we might have to switch the default value. Do the same process as above, but after pressing ENTER on MO 0, you'll get RE 0, which is reverse. Change the setting from 0 to 1 then press ENTER, then END and it should be reversed. |
Sorry I jumped in really late in this thread.... i recently purchased a FS-GT3B Tx and Rx's....my main problem is that....around 200 ft, i lose signal with my car....can't control it or anything... I would have to walk up to it til it reaches and it would work fine again. Is anyone is having range issues?
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Originally Posted by Fatts
(Post 14158449)
Sorry I jumped in really late in this thread.... i recently purchased a FS-GT3B Tx and Rx's....my main problem is that....around 200 ft, i lose signal with my car....can't control it or anything... I would have to walk up to it til it reaches and it would work fine again. Is anyone is having range issues?
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I need to get my radio modded to have as many model memory as possible. I use this radio with my vintage and play Tamiya cars.
If anyone close to NC can do it please send me a pm. Thanks |
Originally Posted by drewbagel423
(Post 13992329)
I figured out how to set both endpoints. Instead of turning the wheel to switch directions, I had to pull the trigger, even for steering endpoints (Ch1). Not sure why that is but I'm fully up and running, other than mapping the buttons.
I just got my hacked radio and am having this issue? How can I get it to change direction with the wheel? Changing with the throttle is useless! I want to see whats happening to the steering as I adjust the endpoint but to do so the car has to be in full forward? Not very user friendly :) Its obviously an issue with the hack as stock its changed with the wheel. |
Looks like the issue was solved On page 202 in RCC groups On the GT3B hack thread. Think I will be doing a lot of reading on these two sites in the near future :) Here is the fix. Only took me 3 attempts :) Winning :)
Measure the voltage of your battery Power up Press ENTER-LONG Scroll to r, press enter scroll to G_Y, press ENTER-LONG press ENTER-LONG Scroll to "LOW POWER!!!", press enter Scroll to 3.0v, press and hold enter Turn wheel max clockwise, press and hold enter While steering wheel is at neutral, press enter Turn wheel max clockwise, let the numbers settle, press enter Turn wheel max counterclockwise, let the numbers settle, press enter Scroll the scroll wheel so 2 is showing on the seven segment While trigger is at neutral and settled, press enter Pull trigger to max, let numbers settle, press enter Push trigger to max, let numbers settle, press enter Scroll to "4" press enter. Change it to the value you measured at the beginning. press enter Press ENTER-LONG Now scroll to E.POINT, press enter Scroll to 1 press enter, Turn the steering wheel fully clockwise slowly, then turn it fully counter clockwise slowly. |
Originally Posted by losikid67
(Post 9483072)
Many of you probably don't know about all these amazing mods we are doing in the FS-GT3B Thread. Probably because its so LONG, and you don't hear about any of it till page 100. So here's a thread dedicated to all the tech of the mods. Feel free to ask questions as well.
Alright so here's the story, to sum up how this all came about. Most of this all started when a local RCT member, PSX, decided to take the leap and popped open the gt3b. Originally he simply took the original FW on the GT3B, decoded it and modified it to fix the issues. Lack of trim, expo, etc. But he continued his quest for a better radio and developed his own firmware. Currently this firmware supports a alot of new features....now many other users, including myself, are working on ways to make the radio better. There are also alot more mods, and services offered for the GT3B, which i'll be posting them in the next few posts. However i do have a small website which i was selling electronics for RC Rock Crawlers, due to my push for a very advance crawling features out of the GT3B, i have taken it under my wing, to make it easy for everyone to have a affordable radio. I sell firmware hack kits, pre-hacked gt3b's, here soon hack kits for all the mods, and easy to understand instructions and tutorials. Most of my tutorials are forum posts scattered around over on RCC, but soon will be pdf's available on my website. i belive this is all the new features the firmware offers in addition to the ones already there...there may be more - 3-8 channels - ~15 model memory depending how many channels your firmware is - Sub trims - More trim value (up to 99) - copy models - fixed expo - Model reset - Channel speed - 4WS Mixing - Dual ESC Mixing - Dual ESC steering - Multi Positions Switches (Up to 8 True positions out of a single push button) - Key Mapping (any key can control any channel in many different ways) - Calibration Menu - Key Test Menu - Backlight on time - Inactivity Alarm - Adjustable Low volatge warning - Adjustable Maximum End Points (Up to 200% i think) - Adjustable dead zone for steering and throttle - Turn keep beeps on/off - Adjustable long press delay The Trim and d/r keys can do this - nothing, it is possible to assign each button individually as key - trim of channel 1/2 - dualrate of steering/forward/back - expo of steering/forward/back - change channel "n" value in range -100...100 - subtrim of channel "n" - 4 wheel steering mix -100...100% - DIG throttle mix -100...100% - Multi-POsition, switches position up/down - steering speed turn 1...100% - steering speed return 1...100% They Can be setup to act like this - momentary, hold left/right trim key to get end values, when nothing pressed, servo is at centre - no long keys, long press is the same as short press - autorepeat is on - long press of one of trim keys will reset to centre/reset value - long press of trim key will set to coresponding end value And they can have an adjustable step rate, opposite click reset, reversed, etc. And the Keys (ch 3 button, back button, end button, and the trims if set individually) - nothing - switch channel "n" value from one end value to opposite end value. - reset value of channel "n" to centre - switch crab (CRB) no-crab (NOC) for 4 wheel steering - switch DIG mix between -100 and 100 (more useable when using return to previous val key setting) - Multi-POsition, switches position up (at END back to 1.) - Multi-Position Reset, switches position to first one I installed v0.6.1. to gt3c. but, I used the wheel for both calibration. In both CH1 and CH2 are naturally wheel controls. I took the software again. but not the calibration screen. How do I calibrate again. And how I can define separately for each channel button on the transmitter. example, TH trim buttons for CH4, ST trim buttons for ch5, CH3's trim button CH6 ... and so on. Thank you in advance for your reply. |
Question about the regulator mod, I have read a few different type of regulators that can be used. Any recommendations?
Recom R-785.0-0.5 Recom R-78E5.0-1.0 TSR 0.5-2450 TR05S05 |
GT3B firmware and Windows
Hey guys will the firmware work with newer Windows like Windows 8 or 10, please let me know, thanks.
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1 Attachment(s)
Stick to servo radio latency. Green is original firmware, Blue is hacked with v0.6.1. About 16ms faster.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...1&d=1499286806 |
Originally Posted by J20635
(Post 14965076)
Hey guys will the firmware work with newer Windows like Windows 8 or 10, please let me know, thanks.
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I have soldered the wires and when I tried to read the memory I have a popup with the error message "the device is protected". How can I fix it?
I am on Windows 10. As soon as I plug the ST Link v2 into the laptop the tx bips. Is it normal? Thanks |
Originally Posted by julieng
(Post 15092973)
I have soldered the wires and when I tried to read the memory I have a popup with the error message "the device is protected". How can I fix it?
I am on Windows 10. As soon as I plug the ST Link v2 into the laptop the tx bips. Is it normal? Thanks http://translate.googleusercontent.c...W8HaVogEYnDetA |
Flysky IT4s
Since there is no thread for this transmitter Flysky IT4s, Im going to ask my question here. Anybody have any clue what the latency would be with the included receiver and the Flysky FSGR3e which has no telemetry
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Has anyone successfully flashed a new GT3B? I just picked one up and I cant get past the no communication error. It has been a while but I remembered my old one was easy. Im afraid I wasted my money on this radio since the expo is still no good.
Edit: Nevermind, its always something stupid. poor connection on the cable. Got that squared away and I had no problem. |
Sorry, quick post. This is an old thread, can I still find everything I need to do this in this thread? or is there somewhere else to look that would be better???
James |
tank-steer mixing?
Hi all,
Unfortunately, in the PSX firmware guide, the section for channel mixes hasn't been completed. Therefore, does anyone know how I could achieve a tank-steer/ v-tail mix between the steering and throttle channels on a hacked GT3B? Its for a fighting robot and I'd rather not have a separate mixer in the robot as I've known them to mess with the required fail-safe. Cheers Dan |
Originally Posted by Stigern
(Post 13516902)
Hi, I'm trying to flash my GT3C, but I'm stuck at when I connect the 4 pins to the radio. My computer plays the sound that a USB device has disconnected, which of course is the STM programmer, and then my radio lights up and beeps each second.
I've tried to reverse the pins but I get the same result. If I try to flash while I'm holding the pins in the socket I get this message: Error : Cannot communicate with the board. Wrong board selection or check board power supply or check that a previous session is closed. Error : < PROGRAM MEMORY programming failed. So my big question is, is it supposed to "disconnect" from the computer when you plug it in the radio? Is it supposed to beep continuously? EDIT! So, this didn't show up in the pdf guide, but on a youtube video. I have to de-solder the two SB1 and SB2 SMD resistors :) Works fine now. i cant get past the "cannot communicate with the tool. Wrong tool selection or check tool power supply or check that a previous session is closed." |
I have a question regarding some parts of the menu. When you assign a key as BRK, what does this do? does it just disable reverse on the trigger temporarily when its activated and then use reverse on the trigger to what you set in the mix menu for the brake channel, and then make the trigger go back to reverse if it's off?
I'm working on a conversion, and it has a disk brake on the rear axle. i don't want to use motor braking, because it's a chain drive. I doubt i'll get a response to this though. |
yeah.. on this forum anyway this topic is very dead. I just picked up an IT3C as Im playing around for the first time with RC since before the pandemic. Thought I would see about doing the mod. I did post back in 2018.. lol
Not sure this is really worth the effort if I am just running a TC with 2 channels. But I have been able to find everything if I do want to be bothered to do it. |
I currently flashed .61 but im unable to bind the old receiver i had with it. It worked before the flash. Can anyone help me on this old topic?
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