I broke my board and then did the STM8S mod posted by 305.This way the radio is powered by the USB connection. Worked great for me running Win XP.

so i tried 305's mod and soldered the 2 traces together. Now the radio is powered by the board again. I plug the lead into the pin header on the radio, plug it into the board, plug the board in. Screen lights up and starts beeping. Open stvp and click read current tab and it gets a rear error still.

I then soldered the sb1 sb2 traces back together and tried the above steps again and it still does the same thing. I also reflowed my pin header on the radio and it didn't help either. This is very frustrating, im hesitant to open my other radio and try for fear of the same issue.

phew, i finally got it to work. I took the 4 wire connector i had and made it into a 3, deleting the 5v wire lead. Got my radio firmware installed and all calibrated now. So i had to plug the wire into the radio, then into the stm8s plugged it into the computer, turned radio on W/ battery power, launched stvp on a windows xp computer and it worked!

Good to hear:D

Now that i've gotten that out of the way. I did a second one this morning and took a total of maybe 20 minutes? Even had to fix a poorly fixed 2.4ghz antenna from the previous owner. Now I'm just waiting on my body reamer and lexan scissors to do the Bearing mod and cut out a new body lol. After i get that done i think i'm gonna be in the market for a lipo and a fancy aluminum steering wheel.

I have 2200Mah LSD nihm AA's in it now, but i dont like the weight of it. I have a AE 2.4ghz radio that only uses 6 and i like the feel of that much better. Anyone have suggestions for lipos and aluminum wheels? I've seen some of the aluminum wheels on Hobbyking, but dont much care for the style

This thread looks really cool :). I might be getting a GT3B in a bit, so it'll be good reference for then.

I got the flash card, updated the radio about a year ago. I switched over to airtronics and put my two flyskys on the shelf. Now my son and I both have crawlers and want to dust these babies off to utilize 4-5 channels. My question might be a waste of time but here it is, for the 6 channel rx do I have to do anything extra? Is the needed programming already installed and I just don't know it? I don't have the 6 channel rxs yet. We want to add wenches, digs, and windshield wipers for our scalers.

Thanks for any help anyone can send my way.

You need the latest update for the radio, go into the global settings and change to the number of channels you need. The 6 channel air receiver binds to the GT3B the same way as the included 3 channel. I setup a winch on my scale crawler and it works great. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the fast reply, now I'm in pretty good shape for the shape I'm in..lol

Hi Guys

I'm just about to get back into RC cars are 20 odd years out of it and plan on starting slowly (and cheaply). Anyway I'm looking at getting the HobbyKing GTX3 which as far as I can tell is just a repackaged GT3C. Can someone confirm that, earlier in the thread is says some people can't get the firmware to load, but that was a while ago?

From there doing mods isn't a problem. I've already got a 9X TX with more mods than you can shake a stick at for my multi rotors.

Some questions though, is it worth running a LiPo in the GT3 or are some low discharge eneloops going to be fine? In the 9X the included battery holder is terrible so you need to replace the battery, wondering if that's the case here too? If it is, can you squeeze in the Turnigy Nano-tech 2500mAh 3S LiPo TX pack, or is the more common Turnigy 1450 pack a better fit? Assuming I go for the LiPo pack, how much more stress does that put on the voltage regulator? I see there is a mod to replace that with a switching regulator. Is that required if you switch to the LiPo or just nice to have?

Other than the firmware update (which will be fine), the bearing mod also seems popular. Is it better to do this right from the start so as not to wear out the plastic surfaces, or does it not really matter since you have to enlarge the hole anyway?

Finally, since there are 8 channels on the firmware update.... I assume there are receivers that will bind to this radio that make using all those channels possible? Can someone point me to them? HK would be ideal if they have them, but really just knowing which ones they are would be helpful.

Thanks

i just flashed my GTX3 yesterday and it went fine.

i cut all the traces on the st explorer board on the little "bridges" going to the processor development side. its pretty much the same as breaking the board but its reversible with solder.

i use a straight pin header and bent it 90deg with vise grips and soldered it the radios board. there isnt the provision like the GT3B case to cut a slot and send it out the side cause a screw mount peg is there so to flash the case has to be apart and the board unscrewed from the top cover.

i also made a 4 pin cable out of part of an old cdrom audio cable and part of a DIP-8 chip socket that i cut up with a dremel. soldered and heat shrunk the connections and taped up some bits and it was ready.

so i installed the toolkit, and then the patch then restarted the computer (acer aspireone netbook) and then connected the radio to the st board. then i turned on the radio and then plugged in the USB. Then i started the programmer software and made the selections.

then i read the original software off and saved it.

then i copied the new code from the github display window that shows the code and pasted it into a txt document and renamed the suffix to .s19 to change the format. flashed the radio and it took the first time.

i had some goofy issues when setting endpoints and having ABS enabled (pulsed throttle constantly) but it was because i never calibrated the throttle and steering inputs.

now it works MINT. LOVE IT! thanks big thanks to PSX and QuangVuong and losikid67 for the code and all the tutorials on how to make this happen.

I bought this radio cause it was cheap and had good features. had no idea that there was custom software for it when i bought it. its right up my alley. nothing i own hasnt been modified or reflashed or whatnot in someway. :)

brian

Thanks Brian

I think I'll probably run a cable down to the battery bay on mine rather than having to open it again later to update

just recv'd stm8s discovery from digikey
 

why does my board have something like resistors where I'm supposed to de solder at sb1 and sb2? should I de solder it?

They are zero ohm resisters. Typically speaking the standard machines that populate boards can't create solder bridges (in fact they are designed specifically not too in most cases). What they do in those cases is add in a componoent that does nothing and is effectively a wire, so yes, you can remove the components without issue

I was looking to pick up a GT3B or a GTX radio for my bashers but I would like to update the F/W. I have done this before with LosiKid's kit.
But Are the current radios that are shipping from HobbyPartz or Hobbyking still able to be flashed ?
or
is anyone selling :)
Thanks guys


Edit: Guess I didn't think about the GT3C, is the flashing pretty straight forward there also ? I will post on the GTB3C thread also.

I've order a GT3B from hobbypartz about a month ago and was able to flash it without any issue...don't know about HobbyKing though.

Thank you. I just ordered a GT3C, now I just have to wait for Overkill RC (aka LosiKid67) to restock on the programing kits !

I don't want to take business away from Overkill but if you really want to flash yours right now, you can get the programming board from digikey or other electronic website...

Hi I broke the trigger on my modded flysky can any of you give me some pointers on replacing the trigger ?? thanks Guys

Flysky trim holding
 

Hey sorry to not read the whole thread. Just wondering if there is a fix or update for my Flysky-GT3B. My channel 2 (esc) trim will wander a bit. Maybe as many as a 10 point increase. I quit using it for racing because I was suspecting it was messing with my drag brakes. Really only would notice sometimes before the start of a race the car would ever so slightly creep forward. I would just hold the brakes when this happened. Not a huge deal and I have been using it in my bashing Slash ever since. My buddy's had the same problem with channel 1 so his steering went nuts. That really makes it hard to drive and I heard a few guys at the track had the same issue with channel 1 also so I guess I feel pretty lucky. I really do like the radio and if it wasn't for this issue I would say it would be the steal of the RC world. I have had mine for two years now. Picked up a KingMax 2200 3cell lipo for 11 bucks shipped and stole the foam steering wheel doughnut off my Traxxas TQ radio so the wheel is normal size. With that 3cell lipo I would race two classes so pretty close to 80 minutes of actual race and practice time and I would use maybe a half of a volt from the battery. Don't think it ever dropped under 11.9 volts.

Hey guys where do I find the firmware to update my hacked FLyskys

If you find the STM8S Discovery Kit a bit annoying, you can buy this ST-LINK V2 programmer for less then six bucks. Just tested it and it works great. The setting for this programmer in the ST Visual Programmer is the same as for the Discovery Kit one.

Where to buy >>> http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40

http://rc.305.cz/images/st_link_v2_programmer_2.jpg

How to connect:
http://rc.305.cz/images/st_link_v2_g...connectors.jpg

"About" article on my web, original in czech lang, traslated >>> http://translate.google.cz/translate...030001&act=url

I did the same thing. You have to wire up the programmer differently, but it works amazingly well. Was able to read the FW from my radio, but I was using staples instead of a pin header, and wasn't trusting myself to be able to write properly, so I'm waiting till the local electronics store opens to get a pin header.

I love that the part is $6 instead of $30

Hello everyone,

I have bought a hacked FS GT3B radio, everything works fine except the third channel. I press the CH3 button, but nothing happens. I viewed the settings in my transmitter and it is set to 3 channels. With throttle and steering everything is OK. What should I do to make 3rd chanel working? Sorry for my bad English:)

fyi I hacked the turnigy gtx3 but I had to use an XP machine b/c win7 just wouldn't do it even w/ the patch.

what do you want the 3rd channel button to do exactly?

Hi, I'm trying to flash my GT3C, but I'm stuck at when I connect the 4 pins to the radio. My computer plays the sound that a USB device has disconnected, which of course is the STM programmer, and then my radio lights up and beeps each second.

I've tried to reverse the pins but I get the same result.

If I try to flash while I'm holding the pins in the socket I get this message:

Error : Cannot communicate with the board.
Wrong board selection or check board power supply or check that a previous session is closed.
Error : < PROGRAM MEMORY programming failed.


So my big question is, is it supposed to "disconnect" from the computer when you plug it in the radio?

Is it supposed to beep continuously?

EDIT!

So, this didn't show up in the pdf guide, but on a youtube video. I have to de-solder the two SB1 and SB2 SMD resistors :)

Works fine now.

Ch 3
 

Hello all,
I need a bit of help. I had my GT3b hacked, using 6.1 firmware. i've never used more than 2 channels.

I need to use Ch.3 as an AUX channel now. I installed a Telebee r/c gyro onto my 2 wd Slash-it has an extra yellow wire that goes into Ch3.

My belief is that this allows the gyro to be adjusted remotely/turned off when not needed using dual rate from the radio system (instead of adjusting only on gyro itself)

Nothing happens when i click in CH3 button, or ch3 trim on my radio. Tried swapping connector on receiver(only has a yellow wire-dont know which side this is supposed to go on)

How do I set up my hacked GT3b to have a useable ch3 AUX button? It has something to do with setups, but I'm clueless to how this is done.

Thanks!

Ps: here's the telebee manual:
http://www.telebee.com.hk/Download/R...ANUAL%20R1.pdf

The manual says that it can operate in single rate mode (only 1 setting, always on) or dual-rate mode (One setting when CH3 inactive, alternate setting when CH3 active) if you connect the plug. It does not mention how to connect it or how to set what the 2 rates are. To test your CH3 working properly, just plug your steering servo into CH3 and activate the CH3 button on the remote to see if it makes the steering servo do something. If it does, then you need to contact the gyro manufacturer on how to set it up properly with the Dual-Rate setting.

Thanks for the reply. Already sent Telebee a msg. to get an official response, but I did figure out how i could adjust the sensitivity using the ch3 trim button.

I'd like to be able to deactivate the gyro using CH3 button, to use it when I need it.

Can ch3 button just be on/off switch for ch3? if so, what should my settings be?

I would assume that you could set dual-rate to be 0%\100% if it allows that option, or when the manufacturer gets back to you on how to configure it properly.

First, thanks for all the cool tech info here, thought I'd add back, hope not a duplicate.

I got the Turnigy GTX3 (Flysky GT2B clone) and the expo works fine, and while I will replace the VR as per in this thread, I first tried to used a $5 DC-DC step up converter regulator to run a 2S1P LiFe RX pack in the transmitter, and it works great!

I took out the 8 cell AA holder, and there is plenty of room for the DC-DC converter and a 1450 Mah LiFe battery. I set the regulator output to 9.2V, which it holds steady as the battery goes down (but LiFe have a pretty flat curve anyway), and I think the low voltage prevents the stock VR from overheating or being too inefficient. Regulator handles input from 3V to 34V and up to 2.5 amps. The GTX3 amp draw is below 0.2 amps.

I.e., light long lasting battery, charge same as the LiFe 6.6V used in your car. I've had everything turned on for 4 hours, and LiFe voltage has dropped from 6.7V to 6.54 volts, while the TX voltage stays solid at 9.2V whole time. Battery, converter and TX screen in VR are all cool, no sign of heat anywhere.

I used the "LM2577 DC-DC Adjustable Step-up Power Converter Module" from Amazon, $5, lol.

Note, if you try this, first use a voltmeter to set the DC output close to 9.5 volts BEFORE hooking it up to TX, mine arrived set at 18 Volts.

Adding a Potentiometer to GT3B
 

Has there been any progress for adding a potentiometer to the GT3B? I've been searching and searching.

Any potentiometer specs, pictures and or instructions would be cool.

Thanks!

Scaled Down Steering with more Throttle
 

I would like to try to have a setup for fast cars that would reduce the steering output based on throttle level. Basically the faster the car goes the less steering and finer control from the steering wheel on the transmitter. I like all the new features I have with the firmware but I'm not sure how to achieve this. I don't do DIG or 4WS so I haven't done those complex setups. If anyone has something similar or can give me the basic setup idea that would be helpful.

Thanks,

I have an LED kit installed on Ch3 of my Rx. With the new firmware, will I be able to map the Ch3 button to turn them on & off?

If you put a led controller on it will. The receiver always has power so without some kind of switch, your lights will always be on.

Yes I ordered one of these:
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=65949

Do I need to do any special mapping in order to get the Ch3 button to do what I want, or will it work as is?

You will have to program it as an on/off. I can't follow the programming of mine so I just use templates from other people. Maybe try Googling programming gt3b to turn lights on and off, or something similar. You could also try here: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/elect...er-thread.html Someone over there with a better understanding of the programming might be willing to help.

Thanks. I found this guide but it really isn't very intuitive.

http://rc.305.cz/storage/FS-GT3BC%20PSX%20Manual.pdf

New question: I hacked my GT3B with 0.6.1 firmware, but now I can only adjust the steering endpoints in one direction, to the right. When I turn the steering wheel, it doesn't change which way the arrow is pointing. Anybody else experience this?