Hey guys new to racing but not the hobby. Looking for a esc set up and was just woundering about the brakes on this esc? Reviews say they are not good. Any insight would be helpfull.

Viper support was quick to get back to me. They suggested the behavior was consistent with reaching the low voltage cutoff (LVC), and to make sure the lipo cells were balanced.

I did a good long balance charge last night. Tonight is club racing so I brought my meter to check the cells after each heat.

I also plan to increase the motor temp cut-off to 240F or maybe even disable it in an effort to troubleshoot the glitching.

I'll report back if I make any discovery's. Thanks for the feedback!

I don't know about "not good". I run the vtx-10r in my 2wd sct and don't run much brake anyway. I have the esc at 100 and turn the radio down to between 60-80. just enough to get the nose down if needed. I haven't had any issues with the brakes not stopping the car. I run on medium outdoor and indoor track. The set up I am currently using and really like is Travis Amezuca's 2wd setup on pettitrc. I haven't changed it since. lol.

stock is 12.5

The default is 80%, some people don't realize you can change it. There is no way to make a default work perfectly for a 2wd buggy, 2wd SC, 1/10 touring car, Stadium Truck, etc. So it has to default somewhere.

When you set the brakes to your liking they are as good as any on the market. Plus there is a lot of adjustability, so you can really find the settings you like.

If the temp cut off is activating, take note of what the outside temp of the motor is and let me know. For what you are running you should not have an issue unless your overgeared, run too long, or have boost in your speed control (which you probably don't need).

I wanted to post a follow up and confirm that indeed the cause of my glitching and motor cut-out was caused by an unbalanced cell in my 2S battery.

I performed a good balance charge and confirmed each cell with my volt-meter. I haven't had an issue since.

I think the reason I didn't see any blinking light LVC indicator is that the cell voltage recovered (if only a little) prior to me recovering my truck from the track.

Anyway, wanted to pass on what happened in case anyone else encounters something similar.

So far very pleased with the Viper hardware. Easy to understand and program. Smooth and quiet motor. Got a few compliments in the pits how small and tidy the ESC is from others.

Ryan

Ryan, glad everything is running way you expect -- keep us in the loop, let us know how its going!!!

Couple of questions,does the v link work with the vtx8 and will it work with an iPad?

Vlink software will work with the vtx8 aswell as the easy link or proguage

No iPad connectivity :-(

[QUOTE=xrayrc;13448967]Vlink software will work with the vtx8 aswell as the easy link or proguage

No iPad connectivity :-([/QUOTE oh well, who owns an iPad anyways

So I recieved my motor from my lhs. He actually ordered me the 6.5 instead of the 7.5. So I am running the 6.5. Was able to test it today. This is a great motor! My other brand was 7.5 but with the gearing I would come off around 140. I went up a tooth on the pinion and it was coming off around 100. Smooth motor. Took me a bit to adjust the radio but dialed it in perfectly. My question is how accurate is the llc on the vtx10r? I normally don't run it as when I practice it's in short spurts. But today I turned it on as I just wanted to run to get used to the motor. I had it set at 6.4 and the red and orange started flashing and car wouldn't move. Still had steering. I checked voltage on battery and they were at 3.9 per. I lowered it to 6.0 and it came off at 3.85 which is fine but wanted a little longer.

Unlike other speed control companies - our cut off will actually start before the number you selected, to truly protect the system. So at 6.4, it would actually start at 6.6. Now if you had error lights on the esc - that is not a voltage cut off. On a64 software, if you hit voltage cut off, the esc will cut power to the motor, but you still have steering.

If you saw error lights on the VPort, its one of the following:
Alternating F and R flashing - error detected from motor (possible motor issue)
Blinking F and R - Motor temp cut off
Blinking F and R with solid N - ESC temp cut off
flashing N (with beep) - can not find neutral signal from radio
Flashing F, N, S - over voltage detected (too much voltage for esc)


Most common mistake we see if that Motor Temp cut off is set too low. This is measured inside the motor, against the rotor. So the temperature is 60*-90* hotter than what you would measure outside on the can. I would check that setting, if you adjusted it at all - that is the most common error we see.

It was the blinking F and R at same time. I remember reading that somewhere so I did up it to 180 I turned it on because I know it works with the viper motors. Should I move it higher or just turn it off? Mind you I am a temp gun freak. I am always temping my stuff. I turn the LVC off Reading out side on the hottest parts of the can were around 90 to 100 or should I gear down a tooth? ESC hottest part was around 130 which sounds normal to me. I am not sure what software is on my ESC as I don't have the pc link yet.

Mine is set at 240 or 250