No. Drag break is simply the break at neutral. You cant really have less brake than that. So your braking will start at 25%. If you apply a little manual brake it will be more than 25%. Drag break is really no different that using your trims. You can use trims to cause roll or drag. There might be some small difference in how that is applied, but it is essentially the same. For example, tekins have "Push". It apply a little throttle to "oppose" drag. But it has a little more intelligence than simply trimming the throttle for roll/push. You are way over complicating drag brake. Most people use a little drag to make it more simple to setup for the turn. For most drivers, it can be extremely difficult to apply very little break. If you were to ask the avg driver to apply 10%, 15% or 17% breaking while entering the corner, they would most likely not be able to do this. It is just a precise method to control how the car acts at neutral. For very low bit track you might only want 5% for high bite, so one said they ran 65%. I personally have never gone over 20% because it makes the car feel binary.

Drag brake will only be effective when coming off the throttle to a neutral condition. If you travel slightly into the brake, you can achieve less brake than the drag brake setting.

When I was using all that drag brake at Trackside, if you went directly to Neutral you would have 65% brake. But places in the infield I would let off the throttle and use about 1/3rd brake, but still have less brake than if I went to neutral.

You have to be aware of what you are doing with the throttle when using allot of drag brake.

Ah, ok. So drag is completely separate from brake. So it is NOT like trim. That is good to know. Is that a Viper thing or an industry thing?

That is pretty standard industry wide. The only ESC that I am aware of that you can make the drag brake do ANYTHING different is the Viper with the Dynamic Brake, but that mearly changes the AMOUNT of drag brake you have at different points on the track, it does not change the fact that the drag brake function works only at Neutral.

You can test this function by turning the drag brake way up (80% should due), make sure the brake EPA is at 100%, and then run the car in your hand. Pull the throttle one second, then just let the trigger fall to neutral.

Try it several times, and some radios use pretty heavy springs and will actually "bounce" the trigger enough so that the ESC will not engage the drag brake right away. My radio has an adjustable spring tension, so I always turn that down to the point where the trigger doesn't bounce if I let off from 100% throttle.

You should get a pretty aggressive "stop" with that much drag brake when you go to neutral.

Now, set the brake EPA to 15%. Then hold the throttle wide open for a second, then go to full brake on the trigger. You will see that you have much less brake at "full brake" on the radio, than you do at neutral.

Ill be purchasing the VTX10 and the VST8.5 for a sc10 FT kit. Which servo would be best I will be racing this indoor.

You might want to go w/ the vtx10r w/ that setup. I have both. I use the vtx10 in a 2wd buggy w/ a 13.5t. I use the vtx10r in a 2wd/4wd SC w/ power hungry motors.

The VTX10 will be more then fine in a 2wd SC10 FT.

yeah I have a VTX10 BE in my SC10 and it's fine.

I have no allegiance to servos, I can only say that I use the Futaba BLS451 and it works well. Other choices I see locally with great success are the XP (associated) and Airtronics servos.

Fred runs Savox and has no issues, so I believe you can just go with what ever brand you like or is available. With that said, I would get another Futaba in a heart beat and if that wasn't available, I would get the XP 1015.

Thanks I was thinking about a airtronics cause that what my receiver will be also.Im just not sure about which model to get I dont know what speed or torque I need.
I do not want to change the topic but I didnt know if some servos worked better with this combo then others.

I am running a Solar servo. Cant beat it for $15, lol. I also have an Airtronics Receiver. But it is not rated for 7v. The 92744 is rated for 7v, so you can better take advantage of the Viper BEC. My Solar 770 is pretty quick and has plenty of torque and it 7v capable. But my receiver is not. If I had a larger servo budget, I would get the Radio Post Green or Blue Servo.

VTX10 and VTX10-BE are both Spec'd down to a 6.5 motor on a 2s battery in 2wd applications.

Servo wise you can use any 1/10th scale servo in the market.

Does anyone know how to enable reverse in a brand new VTX 10?
I do not have the progauge at the moment and everything seems to be fine except for NO reverse.
Thanks!

Hmm...honestly I don't know how to do it without a ProGauge but I know you need to get the ESC into 'practice mode' to get reverse.

Yea practice mode is the only way to get reverse

Ok so I swear there was a post in the last few pages by FLHX1550 that gave a nice synopsis of when to use the 10 vs 10r and BE vs regular ESC...but I can't find it so I'm just going to ask.

Just ordered a Caster S10B Pro and will be buying a new Viper ESC and motor to go in it. Going VXT10R but is there a reason to go with the BE or not in this application (4wd 1/10 buggy)?