FLYSKY GT3b Transmitter
#752
Also what makes these radios feel much better is used a thick grease like silicone grease and coat the steering components all of them that rub on each other when you turn the wheel put a coat of the grease also on the steering wheel shaft where you screw the wheel on it's bone dry where it rides on the plastic do this also,,,,, and coat all the springs with a coat and all the throttle trigger components... with a thick tacky grease the radio then feels as smooth as a airtronics!
#754
I made mine softer... you can get to the steering spring by peeling off the flysky sticker on the wheel extension part and there are 2 screws under it and then you can take the whole assembly apart.... one way you may be able to make it stiffer would be pop off the spring on one side and wind it up. on the spring end by turning it one full turn to make the spring compress more and when holding it so it don't unwind pop it back on the tab that holds it in place.
#755
Tech Master
iTrader: (34)
I did this all i did was streatch it a very little bit so it would not shrink back all the way to it's original size but still needed to be streatched to put back on the holder and it worked great.
Also what makes these radios feel much better is used a thick grease like silicone grease and coat the steering components all of them that rub on each other when you turn the wheel put a coat of the grease also on the steering wheel shaft where you screw the wheel on it's bone dry where it rides on the plastic do this also,,,,, and coat all the springs with a coat and all the throttle trigger components... with a thick tacky grease the radio then feels as smooth as a airtronics!
Also what makes these radios feel much better is used a thick grease like silicone grease and coat the steering components all of them that rub on each other when you turn the wheel put a coat of the grease also on the steering wheel shaft where you screw the wheel on it's bone dry where it rides on the plastic do this also,,,,, and coat all the springs with a coat and all the throttle trigger components... with a thick tacky grease the radio then feels as smooth as a airtronics!
yup, after a couple tanks it starts to squeak a bit, bit of grease and its good to go.
#756
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
I just received the Hobby King version of this radio. I like the looks and feel of it. Interesting notes: On the top of the box it says "Please read manual before operating" or something of that nature. I know a lot of people have been getting the FS radio with no manual at all. Sure enough, when I pulled the radio out, there was a printed manual included. It is a bit hard to read, it's the good old "Chinese English". Also of note it says on the box that the VRC software is included, but there was no CD in my box. I will be racing with this radio with 2 SC trucks this coming outdoor season, hopefully everything works out!
#757
I just received the Hobby King version of this radio. I like the looks and feel of it. Interesting notes: On the top of the box it says "Please read manual before operating" or something of that nature. I know a lot of people have been getting the FS radio with no manual at all. Sure enough, when I pulled the radio out, there was a printed manual included. It is a bit hard to read, it's the good old "Chinese English". Also of note it says on the box that the VRC software is included, but there was no CD in my box. I will be racing with this radio with 2 SC trucks this coming outdoor season, hopefully everything works out!
I'm going to check now
Just checked...I was wrong. They do sell it.
I guess that's the second time I've been wrong.
#758
Tech Regular
iTrader: (33)
Well, I decided to put the old R-1 back in my cars. But before I did, I wanted to make sure that the backup battery was still ok. So I unpluged the main battery pack for a couple of seconds, & connected it back. Turned the radio back on & everything was as it should be. I figured if it crashed, at least my GT3B was already installed in everything.
So I put new ni-mh batteries in, and now we're good to go. I just feel like the very soft steering on the GT3B was throwing me off. So I'll try this setup Sunday to see if I'm right.
So I put new ni-mh batteries in, and now we're good to go. I just feel like the very soft steering on the GT3B was throwing me off. So I'll try this setup Sunday to see if I'm right.
#759
Tech Regular
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: AL, FL, IL, GA, MO, Canada due to race track locations and time there:)
Posts: 409
Robert
TERC
#760
Tech Regular
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: AL, FL, IL, GA, MO, Canada due to race track locations and time there:)
Posts: 409
Ok, heres what we did, take the spring off, take and hold one side tightly with a GOOD pair of needlenose pliers. While doing such, grab the other side, use your fingers ONLY and twist the spring / winds to make it tighter. Put the spring back on, move the wheel back and for to relax the spring into position. It may make a little noise at first but it soon will go quiet as some of the guys here did.
Best of luck to a firmer wheel.
Robert
TERC
#761
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
I've been mucking around with the crcuit board and I know a few methods of keeping thr backlight on all the time so you dint forget to turn it off. I'll just need to test it with for any prolong effects, heating up etc. I may also put up a tut for a different colour LED or adding LEDs to the screen.
And I will try to find out how to make the 3rd channel push switch into a 3 pos toggle.
Probs tomorrow night I'll put up pics. If nit then next week.
And I will try to find out how to make the 3rd channel push switch into a 3 pos toggle.
Probs tomorrow night I'll put up pics. If nit then next week.
#763
Tech Regular
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: AL, FL, IL, GA, MO, Canada due to race track locations and time there:)
Posts: 409
Not sure as all my work done, Red LED's, New Wheel and Steering spring has been performed by one of our racers in Florida. Sorry, just can't help on this one. Mine is all intacted up at the shop. Does anyone have theirs apart at this time to help out DRSmooth!
Robert
TERC
#764
Tech Regular
iTrader: (33)
Figured it out. Or took a wild guess! The brown wire was still connected to the middle pin. So I figured that the orange & black were interchangeable. At least that's what I was hoping.
So I resoldered the brown to the center, and just clipped the other two to the outer pins. Turned the transmitter & car on and tested the direction of the steering. It was operating properly. Resoldered the wires and wah-lah!
Thanks for the reply teamedgerc. As for the steering tension, I couldn't do a thing with the spring. So I came up with another solution. I used an o-ring from a shock cap. I made a catch pin with a notch in the middle. Hooked the o-ring in the notch, then fed the other end of the o-ring thru a small opening in the back plate & hooked the upper hook.
Feels almost like my R-1 now.
So I installed the GT3B back into my 12th scale & will test it tomorrow.
So I resoldered the brown to the center, and just clipped the other two to the outer pins. Turned the transmitter & car on and tested the direction of the steering. It was operating properly. Resoldered the wires and wah-lah!
Thanks for the reply teamedgerc. As for the steering tension, I couldn't do a thing with the spring. So I came up with another solution. I used an o-ring from a shock cap. I made a catch pin with a notch in the middle. Hooked the o-ring in the notch, then fed the other end of the o-ring thru a small opening in the back plate & hooked the upper hook.
Feels almost like my R-1 now.
So I installed the GT3B back into my 12th scale & will test it tomorrow.
#765
Tech Regular
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: AL, FL, IL, GA, MO, Canada due to race track locations and time there:)
Posts: 409
Figured it out. Or took a wild guess! The brown wire was still connected to the middle pin. So I figured that the orange & black were interchangeable. At least that's what I was hoping.
So I resoldered the brown to the center, and just clipped the other two to the outer pins. Turned the transmitter & car on and tested the direction of the steering. It was operating properly. Resoldered the wires and wah-lah!
Thanks for the reply teamedgerc. As for the steering tension, I couldn't do a thing with the spring. So I came up with another solution. I used an o-ring from a shock cap. I made a catch pin with a notch in the middle. Hooked the o-ring in the notch, then fed the other end of the o-ring thru a small opening in the back plate & hooked the upper hook.
Feels almost like my R-1 now.
So I installed the GT3B back into my 12th scale & will test it tomorrow.
So I resoldered the brown to the center, and just clipped the other two to the outer pins. Turned the transmitter & car on and tested the direction of the steering. It was operating properly. Resoldered the wires and wah-lah!
Thanks for the reply teamedgerc. As for the steering tension, I couldn't do a thing with the spring. So I came up with another solution. I used an o-ring from a shock cap. I made a catch pin with a notch in the middle. Hooked the o-ring in the notch, then fed the other end of the o-ring thru a small opening in the back plate & hooked the upper hook.
Feels almost like my R-1 now.
So I installed the GT3B back into my 12th scale & will test it tomorrow.
SWEEEEEEEET! Nice to hear all went well. Sorry I couldn't help out. I wasn't going to tell you something I had no clue about such as wiring. Either way, test it out and give us a detailed report. I can say, it most likely will be a positive one once you get it adjusted for your driving style. It took me a few days to get use to mine. Our karts drive very much like a pan car so if you need any help or suggestions, let me know.
Robert
TERC