thanks will try that

Not to mean any offense, but there are plenty of highly reputable non-eBay based shops that you can buy from, that ship anywhere in the world. Given your location, in sure Cherry would be able to sort you out from the uk.

I guess I'm a little spooky, as all I have to do is ask Sizheng, and he brings the stuff to the track for me... Now that's a good service :P

where are good places to buy the COMBO-XS6A set from?

I just dont know who is selling the real one now

Hi..

I have 3 HW BL systens which I run on my 1/10th scale and very happy with the product and the support I get.

I am now looking for a HW brushless combo for my RC18R that I can go racing with.

So a few questions direct at Angelo but anybody else please feel free to reply with opinions/experience etc.

1.)
There are a few good deals on these two combo's, which include the shipping...

http://cgi.ebay.com/eZrun-18A-SL-ESC...ht_10280wt_942

http://cgi.ebay.com/eZrun-25A-SL-L-E...ht_10281wt_942

Does YoYou hobbies deal with the real HW products or are they fake?
I scanned through the negative feedback and all seems ok there.

2.) I have no experience on the sensorless systems, and I am a little concerned about the "cogging" issue I have read about relating to the sensorless systems.
There seem to be only two systems from HW for 18th scale and both are sensorless.
Are there and sensored systems from HW for 18th scale, or plans of releasing one in the near future?

3.) HW seems to have two motors for the 18th scale, a 18T and a 12T.
I have come across a few posts where guys speak about a 10T motor for 18th scale. Is that too much motor/power for 18th scale and does HW do a 10T motor?

Thx

Hi Andrew

Hobbywing now is working on a section of there website which will have all the stores that are reputable and will also list the ones that are not .

Simple things you have to look at ask them to send you photos of the product and not just the photo downloaded from the website .Look at the switchs on the esc make sure there not clear cases ,capacitor banks are also different all our caps come from japan not china .Also websites like ebay stores uk or usa or even au but shipping is from hong kong or china etc .

I will push for the website to be complete very quickly. This is a full time job chasing these people not only for me but the factory to. Slowly slowly we are working hard to eliminate all this garbage .

There are alot of reputable hobbywing sellers on ebay but you need to do your homework even if it takes 3 days backwards and forwards in communication to get the correct information .

But even if you buy the product make sure you use paypal because if you see it is a fake once you receive the goods i will sort out a report once you send me the photos of the product you purchased and paypal will return your money not matter even if it is over the 45 day period i have done this for quite a few who have contacted me .

They are fine if you choose to purchase .But remember you have always paypal protection .Never use direct deposit/wire t/t or even worse western union .

cogging on the sensorless will occur only if the mosfets are damaged as in sensored it could be multiple reason example faulty sensor cable,damaged mosfets,damaged sensor port or even damaged hall sensors in the motors sensor board .

I dont recommend a 10T for the 25 amp and 18amp 1/18th scale esc's stay with what is recommended on the hobbywing website .

your from the uk right ?please contact stuart AKA cheery2blost racers in exile uk he is a registered hobbywing importer and if he cannot help you direct he will direct you to a store in the uk for your purchase .

There are alot of dealers and distributors listed on the hobbywing website so a simple email to any one of the contacts on the site and they will direct you to a reputable source to purchase your product who the dealer or the distributor sell to .

Always use paypal for your purchase especially for overseas sellers that are not based in your country this way we can help you when there is a problem .western union there is not trace .

thank you Andrew for your input on this matter and the thread very good info you have given

thanks once again .

Hiya all.

I have been playing again............

Proof positive that you really have to want to blow up an xtreme stock ESC.

Well to cut a long story short, was cleaning out my ESC with can of air, oops dropped it into a pint glass of beer !!!!!

Took it out and decided it would be dead so took it to pieces, removed both parts of outer case, desoldered the mounting pins for the wires, desoldered the switch lead and the RX lead, took out the latex heat transfer mat and sat looking at the forlorn sight of two parts of the board and all the ancillary bits.

Was intending to try a clean wiring install on my new TA06 Pro so thought I would experiment on this supposed dead ESC (remember it's still dripping beer at this moment).

Dropped all the parts boards and all into a jug of brake cleaner (word for the wise don't put the bottom plastic case in or it goes light smokey blue); juggled it around a bit, blew all the bits off with can of air (beer glass well clear this time) shortened all the wires and put it back together again. Now it is really difficult (nigh impossible) to get the solder posts back through the holes without really heating up the ESC (so it got bloody hot so couldn't hold heatsink anymore).

Resoldered the Battery + and - and directly soldered the ABC to the board, resoldered the switch leads (short) and the RX lead (Very Short) clipped it all back together and plugged it in. Had forgotten to connect the Power Cap so decided to solder direct to the battery terminal 'corally's. Bright spark connected the Cap wrong way round and had big sparks and very burnt smell.

Resoldered (correctly this time) a new power Cap turned it on, reset up the radio and bugger me the thing is still working perfectly.

This was my first Xtreme Stock so has had a hard hard life but the lil blighter just keeps coming back for more !!!!!


See if anyone can beat THAT level of abuse with a Tekin :lol:

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...-28-14_340.jpg

211 slower than 518?
 

Finally got someone to put my extreme on his lap top and find out what software we were running. Turns out it was 518. After a couple of qualifiers we put the 211 on and it was much slower. Before we were running 18 degrees turbo timing but on the 211 we had to ramp that up to 35 to get anywhere near the same performance same went for the all the other settings. Even had to go up two teeth on the pinion. 518 may not be as smooth but im convinced its not as quick.
Has anyone else found this?
Can anyone tell me what the difference was between 518 and 528?

Indoors on Carpet 518 is hard to beat for 13.5T.

Settings as follows

Boost Max
Turbo Max
Delay 0.3
Start RPM 3000
Supercharger Punch -5 or -6
FDR 7.0 to 8.0
(Hobbywing 13.5)

Similar performance on 211
Boost 40
Turbo 24
Slope 24
Delay 0.0
SC Punch 400
Start RPM 2000 to 4000
FDR 7.0 to 8.0

211 is easier on the motor if you are heavy handed.

Gearing is the key here, as with both firmwares you have to let the motor rev higher to get all the boost in this means moving away from the established 'norms' and thinking revs revs revs as I keep labouring on here the HW 13.5's LIKE TO REV they are NOT a torquey motor they are a screamer !!!

just instlled the 119 mod software on my 120a, but there isnt too much to adjust compared to the stock software

going for a test with my ta06 with a hobbywing 8.5t, would it be better to use the stock software or will i be ok with the mod?

LARGE track and everybody is using 4-5.5t motors (have ordered a 5.5t but want to test the car as soon as it gets here, and want some speed too :)

and would 6.0 be a good start on the gearing?

Tekin users don't drink beer, that's where they win this little contest....
:D