Shawn68z

iTrader: (6)

for 1224

DDRS 8
9 38 degrees boost
10 9d / 0.1 sec
12 8 degrees turbo
13 1000 rpm
14 0.1 seconds
15 150 rpm

Motor temp was 105F
80mm RollOut

DDRS 8
9 38 degrees boost
10 12d / 0.1 sec
12 8 degrees turbo
13 1000 rpm
14 0.1 seconds
15 150 rpm

Motor temp was 95F
82mm RollOut

When I increased the rollout the car was alot better, and the motor was stone cold, which is making think a higher rollout will work better. Unfortunately I wont be able to do futher testing until next saturday. I also noticed the brakes were not near as good as 1224. I run a novak 17.5 with 15deg endbell.

trx B E

what stock firmware do you guys recommend for offroad?

Jack2

iTrader: (1)

yeah that was the next thing on my list. I'll drop the FDR from 8.3 back to 8.65 and crank the static timing up to max and see how I go.

What sort of temp are people getting with there Mod motors? highest I have seen so far was 62 I think, would I be right in thinking I could run it up to 70?
Cheers for the Input

ezh_m5

Anybody used boost with 17.5T ?
I need settings for esc with x12 17.5T.

M7H

Excuse me, but I have to say this.

Are you sure this hobby is suited for you?
Do we also have to drive your car for you?
Put everything on the slowest setting, and find out yourself....

Well, oke then....
First put timing insert on X12 to -10 (4 dots)
then add turbo settings....

venom54

Hi ya.,

Below is a possible starting point for 17.5 from a 21.5 setup used this past weekend at my local track here in Australia.

Car - XRAY T3 2011
FDR - 4.91 (for 17.5 start at 5.5 at least as a base point. 4.91 will be too low)
MOTOR - SP21.5 V3 SET TO ZERO DEGREE TIMING (leave at zero timing to retain bottom end grunt)

SETTINGS SUGGESTED ARE LISTED BELOW.

1 = 1
2 = 0%
3 = 3.4V
4 = 9
5 = 100%
6 = 25%
7 = 0%
8 = 6%
9 = 35 (try set at 32 to tame)
10 = 18 (try at 12 to tame turbo kit)
11 = ENABLED
12 = 24
13 = 4000
14 = 0.3SEC
15= 500 (for the 17.5 start at 750 or higher. To low will build too much heat too early)

Results with the 21.5 settings were explosive acceleration and great top end culminating in a comfortable heat win. Motor temps stayed around 55 degree C and all but driving incidents did not add more wins to the tally.

I'm very impressed with the new software and with a little more track time i'd say a few more tweaks on setup will produce more impressive results. Only the driver has to now improve.

Hope these setup options will be of help.

Cheers

Ren

sizheng

Shawn, your settings are almost same on the value, but totally different in the real.

Boost timing 38 in 1224 is as 54 in 0119. That's why you feel 0119 slow.

I have posted in a reply that the unit of degree is not same, it's just a step which is split for your setting more accurately.

Hope you can understand what I said.

Tire Chunker

iTrader: (16)

But without proper instructions how could a user of the esc deduce this for themselves?

A simple scale to show timing equivalents would be nice when a new version.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

I had a long chat and very helpful and informative chat with Sizheng at the track on sunday, and basically this is how I understood it (this was after wiring up a brand new 120A wrongly... appologies again on that!)

Basically, the setting values don't directly relate to the actual timing going into the motor.
It's better to think of it as a stepped increase in timing... so 110119 has more steps between the top and bottom of the boost range than 101224. I will say I don't know the specifics of the maximum level of physical timing being pumped in at the 60 setting, maybe sizheng will be willing to explain.

Anyway, hence why setting 0119 to the same level as 1224 will make it feel slower... And before anyone says it's false, Tekin and numerous others do the same thing, there's only so much timing you can put in a motor before it gets highly inefficient (>60° added timing), and eventually hits a point where it can't figure out if it goes backwards or forwards (90° added timing)

HiH
Ed

sizheng

Thanks, Ed, your english words are more clear than mine. I think they will understand then.

Unfortunately, I also have not a chart to tell the value of real timing and steps in different programs(I think this also related to some technical secret). What I can do is test the setting on the track and compare and find the best setting. But anyway, you guys can have sense with the suggest settings in the instruction.

Just don't focus on the NUMBER, focus on the FACT (your car's handling,laptime,motor temp. etc)

rbakker

is the 21 degrees off the 518 the same as the 38 degrees on the 1224...?

Shawn68z

iTrader: (6)

I understand what you are saying but, if the steps have been broken up for more accuracy, then the documentation on the HW site is wronge. In the PDF file that you left a link to on the HW, states Boost can go upto 60deg in 1 deg steps, and turbo can goto 40 deg in 1 deg steps, for a total of 60deg total timing.

Your post contradictes this, can we get some clarification on the total timing available, and the steps.

Shawn.

getpip

Sizheng

Does this mean that the maximum settings for any given software version are much the same but with finer adjusment increments?

rbakker

Think it is close, otherwise all motors has been cooked..

msxmre

Hi Guys after a little help or know how. My m8 put the newest software onto his Speedo on friday night, ran all night flawlessly in touring car. Tried to race on sunday, got round 2 corners and car stopped dead. The speedo now has nothing on it, wont work, let me update it on pc and wont accept any software. He was running conservative settings on this speedo, never came off hot and motor always cool after every run on friday night with no change for sundays racing.
Anyone got any ideas?
Scotty....