Losing turbo
 

HELP!!!!

Big race tomorrow. Using HW 60A Xerun esc and find that it will run for about 10-15 secs responding to the turbo etc and then it goes very very slow. I've tried a Losi 13.5, then a GM 13.5 and now on the bench a Fusion 13.5 with the suggested settings on the 119 software.

All the same dying out after a few flicks on the throttle.

Racing for the first time in anger two weeks ago [with the 518 softwareI] had the same problem. Changed sensor wires and got three good runs out of the TC5. The other HW esc running a 17.5 has been fine!

Last week I had no sign of problems until the final when it slowed, got fast again, then slow and then fast etc. Switching it off restores its speed on restart.

I upgraded to 119 and it seemed ok on the bench until today again when it starts up Ok then slows right down.


Any ideas??

1.make sure your sensor wire is good and plugged tightly.
2.reset your ESC's neutral ,full throttle, brake point carefully. Especially full throttle point.
3.Your battery maybe not powerful enough.
4.try to close turbo first to test. If still has problem Then close boost timing.

Venom's setup is quite good I think.

Maybe add boost timing to 36 and the timing punch to 300rpm/degree.

Where can I find Venom's setup?

Just tried a better fully charged battery..................screams away nicely now!!

Thank you for taking the time to help. Much appreciated:D:D

BennyBagems,

Post #2768 on the previous page of this thread.

Calvin.

what? you can run 2s lipos on the 1s esc?

whats the advantage of that?

A method to find the setting of 0119 program
 

I received some PM to ask the setting of ESC, but I'm sorry I don't have enough information to tell you the detail value because it really depends on lots of local environment and personal style. Here I 'd like to share one good method I think.


Actually,please don't care too much of the end speed on the straight,but the overall lap time or performance during the whole race. The smooth throttle feeling will make you 'feel' you are slow, while your lap time may be faster.

A good method to test the best setting of the esc (119)is to turn off the Turbo first, just choose a beginning FDR and open 30degree boost timing. Then try to feel the acceleration and the performance after 5 minutes. If it is almost same lap time, then try to add boost timing 4 degree each time until the lap time drop after 3-4 minutes. And you can change FDR after some packs to feel the difference. Then you will have the best FDR and boost timing. The start rpm and timing punch should be set according to your track and feeling. After these settings good, then turn on your turbo now, you can try from 16-20 degree. Set the right delay and make sure don't let turbo open in some short straight. You need to measure the temp of motor after running and adjust turbo degree to a safe temp range. Also note your overall lap time .

Hope this will help.

Regards,
Sizheng

does the timing concept apply in 119 which is, more timing > more power at high rpm... less timing > more power at low rpm? i m wonder coz HW have timing punch menu...

Hi Guys Im looking for a good setup for my Hobbywing 120amp with the new softwear, touring car 17.5 using either ballistic, sp v3 or duo 2 motors medium size following track avg lap time 18sec ashphelt on rubber.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Hi Guys,

Successful run of 110119 software today.
ESC connected to SP V3 13.5.
Came off at about 44deg after 5min run.
7.0 FDR

Settings used:
4. DRRS 9
9. boost timing 40
10. turbo slope 18
12. turbo timing 20
13. start rpm 2000
14. turbo delay 0.3
15. timing acc 200

Gotta love the noise of the SP 13.5 when it gets given 60deg of timing :lol:

Is there more speed in it yet? Can we have 70deg timing?!?

Generally speaking 60 is the most you can give the motor and have good performance. Around the 50-65 mark the motor will start to slow down and just get hotter.

I have noticed the 0119 software does like more gear then the 1224 software for some reason.

First run with a new ESC.

I was going to ask why my car went into a slow down/speed up/slow down cycle after a couple of minutes, then I recalculated my FDI and realized it was WAY too high (low?). Especially given that our track is extremely tight and twisty. So, my batteries couldn't handle it by the looks of it. Hoping that's case. Will be trying again and see how it goes.

The motor sounded like it was struggling. I did get a chance to watch the LEDs during this time. When all is running good, at full throttle, the green led comes on and all is OK. During the down/slow time, the red led is on, but the green led never comes on, even if the throttle is pinned open. I'm assuming that's running as programmed?

I'm using the XERUN 120A with a Yokomo Zero 13.5 Motor. I'm using the LCD connection through to my computer and I believe I'm running the latest firmware and software (0119 on the ESC). I have a couple of items in the Advanced tab greyed out and I can't set them. Turbo RPM is one and I can't remember the other right now.

Is there any particular reason why I can't modify those elements?

Cheers

Hi, This happened to me, re flashing the firmware cured it.

One thing alot of you guys can't seem to understand is that to run efficiently with no power issues you need quality battery's.Turbo settings require loads of current and if your battery is one of those make believe c ratings as we see on 90% of the batterys on todays market then you will have problems .

A cheap battery is a cheap battery in power,quality and performance and as technology gets better and more performance is on demand those sort of cheap cells cannot do the job that is needed.

I get alot of emails about issues of esc stopping then going then slowing down after a few minutes etc .When batterys have a none linear voltage drop per time cycle they are crap Rubbish in other words.