I'm having electrical problems, need some help.
#1
I'm having some problems with my stadium truck. From time to time it just decides to take off full speed with no steering and no brakes, basicly I have absolutely no control of the truck. Today it took off full speed, no brakes, no steering, straight into a wall. It broke the chassis in half and a bunch of other parts to boot.
I have tried two esc's, three servo's, three receivers, and two batteries and I am still having electrical issues. The only thing left is the motor it seems. Is it possible the motor is causing the problem? I use the radio for three other cars/trucks and I have no issues with them. I used the transponder on another truck afterwards and it did not have any issues.
I have tried two esc's, three servo's, three receivers, and two batteries and I am still having electrical issues. The only thing left is the motor it seems. Is it possible the motor is causing the problem? I use the radio for three other cars/trucks and I have no issues with them. I used the transponder on another truck afterwards and it did not have any issues.
#2
Make sure your receiver antenna isn't touching/resting, or strapped to anything electrically conductive... Graphite/Carbon Fiber is conductive. Insulate your antennas well if you must have it touch something like that, aluminum, steel, these are all conductive...
Also, make sure there's enough antenna exposure. Bundling up your antenna and sticking a bit out will reduce your range to some effect...
Also, make sure you turn on your transmitter first, before turning on your receiver...
Lastly, this is a long shot since you claim that it works great in other cars, make sure you're not being jammed. The AM scheme is more prone to jamming.
I really don't think it's a motor issue. Motors usually will draw current if speed control is putting out a signal (switched power)...
Also, make sure there's enough antenna exposure. Bundling up your antenna and sticking a bit out will reduce your range to some effect...
Also, make sure you turn on your transmitter first, before turning on your receiver...
Lastly, this is a long shot since you claim that it works great in other cars, make sure you're not being jammed. The AM scheme is more prone to jamming.
I really don't think it's a motor issue. Motors usually will draw current if speed control is putting out a signal (switched power)...
#3
Make sure your receiver antenna isn't touching/resting, or strapped to anything electrically conductive... Graphite/Carbon Fiber is conductive. Insulate your antennas well if you must have it touch something like that, aluminum, steel, these are all conductive...
Also, make sure there's enough antenna exposure. Bundling up your antenna and sticking a bit out will reduce your range to some effect...
Also, make sure you turn on your transmitter first, before turning on your receiver...
Lastly, this is a long shot since you claim that it works great in other cars, make sure you're not being jammed. The AM scheme is more prone to jamming.
I really don't think it's a motor issue. Motors usually will draw current if speed control is putting out a signal (switched power)...
Also, make sure there's enough antenna exposure. Bundling up your antenna and sticking a bit out will reduce your range to some effect...
Also, make sure you turn on your transmitter first, before turning on your receiver...
Lastly, this is a long shot since you claim that it works great in other cars, make sure you're not being jammed. The AM scheme is more prone to jamming.
I really don't think it's a motor issue. Motors usually will draw current if speed control is putting out a signal (switched power)...
I should have mentioned, this happened about two minutes into a race. I did turn the radio on before the receiver though.
I find it hard to believe that it is the motor as well but I'm starting to run out of options.

Just for the heck of it here is a picture of my speed-t. May it rest in pieces.

#5
#6
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,010
Other than that you got me.
#7
The last really good gremlin guy had found locally on a XXXTcr was actually a problem with metal on metal in the diff...
The truck would usually cut out after a hard landing/launch, but come right back...
The same truck also had one screw vibrating on the aluminum motor plate, but after fixing that it was narrowed down to inside the diff.
He had tried:
3 speed cons
2 motors
2-3 receivers
2 servos
various batteries
transmitters
different brand radio completely
etc.
They had physically nearly changed every thing on the truck, but it was the truck.
If it is indoor on carpet, some guys have had "static" issues on dual layer carpet landers or plexi-glass "ice" that was laid out...
That is usually cured with some spray on static guard, or increasing humidity.
The truck would usually cut out after a hard landing/launch, but come right back...
The same truck also had one screw vibrating on the aluminum motor plate, but after fixing that it was narrowed down to inside the diff.
He had tried:
3 speed cons
2 motors
2-3 receivers
2 servos
various batteries
transmitters
different brand radio completely
etc.
They had physically nearly changed every thing on the truck, but it was the truck.
If it is indoor on carpet, some guys have had "static" issues on dual layer carpet landers or plexi-glass "ice" that was laid out...
That is usually cured with some spray on static guard, or increasing humidity.
#8
The last really good gremlin guy had found locally on a XXXTcr was actually a problem with metal on metal in the diff...
The truck would usually cut out after a hard landing/launch, but come right back...
The same truck also had one screw vibrating on the aluminum motor plate, but after fixing that it was narrowed down to inside the diff.
He had tried:
3 speed cons
2 motors
2-3 receivers
2 servos
various batteries
transmitters
different brand radio completely
etc.
They had physically nearly changed every thing on the truck, but it was the truck.
If it is indoor on carpet, some guys have had "static" issues on dual layer carpet landers or plexi-glass "ice" that was laid out...
That is usually cured with some spray on static guard, or increasing humidity.
The truck would usually cut out after a hard landing/launch, but come right back...
The same truck also had one screw vibrating on the aluminum motor plate, but after fixing that it was narrowed down to inside the diff.
He had tried:
3 speed cons
2 motors
2-3 receivers
2 servos
various batteries
transmitters
different brand radio completely
etc.
They had physically nearly changed every thing on the truck, but it was the truck.
If it is indoor on carpet, some guys have had "static" issues on dual layer carpet landers or plexi-glass "ice" that was laid out...
That is usually cured with some spray on static guard, or increasing humidity.
#9
Suspended
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 415
From: FLA
The last really good gremlin guy had found locally on a XXXTcr was actually a problem with metal on metal in the diff...
The truck would usually cut out after a hard landing/launch, but come right back...
The same truck also had one screw vibrating on the aluminum motor plate, but after fixing that it was narrowed down to inside the diff.
He had tried:
3 speed cons
2 motors
2-3 receivers
2 servos
various batteries
transmitters
different brand radio completely
etc.
They had physically nearly changed every thing on the truck, but it was the truck.
If it is indoor on carpet, some guys have had "static" issues on dual layer carpet landers or plexi-glass "ice" that was laid out...
That is usually cured with some spray on static guard, or increasing humidity.
The truck would usually cut out after a hard landing/launch, but come right back...
The same truck also had one screw vibrating on the aluminum motor plate, but after fixing that it was narrowed down to inside the diff.
He had tried:
3 speed cons
2 motors
2-3 receivers
2 servos
various batteries
transmitters
different brand radio completely
etc.
They had physically nearly changed every thing on the truck, but it was the truck.
If it is indoor on carpet, some guys have had "static" issues on dual layer carpet landers or plexi-glass "ice" that was laid out...
That is usually cured with some spray on static guard, or increasing humidity.
but that was one singular VERY odd occurance, and the chances of it replicating itself again is nill to none.
the OP is having "runaway" problems, and just hasn't found what IT is yet - but it's not "the truck"
#10
Suspended
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 415
From: FLA
Thank you. The antenna was looped on top of the receiver. The receiver was a Spektrum SR3000.
I should have mentioned, this happened about two minutes into a race. I did turn the radio on before the receiver though.
I find it hard to believe that it is the motor as well but I'm starting to run out of options.
Just for the heck of it here is a picture of my speed-t. May it rest in pieces.

I should have mentioned, this happened about two minutes into a race. I did turn the radio on before the receiver though.
I find it hard to believe that it is the motor as well but I'm starting to run out of options.

Just for the heck of it here is a picture of my speed-t. May it rest in pieces.


one thing I noticed looking at your pic is that you're running a receiver pack.......... why?

the other simple thing is that you don't have your motor wires from the ESC to the motor "braided" - and the castle motors are notorious for voltage spikes that cause glitches, and even they recommend (along with most BL motor manufacturers) to braid the wires to eliminate the possiblity of interference to the radio.
finally, you have all your wires just flopping around in the truck. not a good thing, and "could" lead to all kind of issues
#11
one thing I noticed looking at your pic is that you're running a receiver pack.......... why? 
the other simple thing is that you don't have your motor wires from the ESC to the motor "braided" - and the castle motors are notorious for voltage spikes that cause glitches, and even they recommend (along with most BL motor manufacturers) to braid the wires to eliminate the possiblity of interference to the radio.
finally, you have all your wires just flopping around in the truck. not a good thing, and "could" lead to all kind of issues

the other simple thing is that you don't have your motor wires from the ESC to the motor "braided" - and the castle motors are notorious for voltage spikes that cause glitches, and even they recommend (along with most BL motor manufacturers) to braid the wires to eliminate the possiblity of interference to the radio.
finally, you have all your wires just flopping around in the truck. not a good thing, and "could" lead to all kind of issues
I didn't know about braiding the wires but I will certainly do that. That will be an easy fix.
The wires are just flopping around because I removed the mamba monster pro right before this run and put the sidewinder in to see if it would take care of the problem. Normally the wiring is pretty clean looking.
#13
#14
Suspended
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 415
From: FLA
There is no receiver pack. The blue you are seeing (assuming that is what you are refering to) is velcro for the transponder. It is a crappy picture so I can see why you are seeing that.
I didn't know about braiding the wires but I will certainly do that. That will be an easy fix.
The wires are just flopping around because I removed the mamba monster pro right before this run and put the sidewinder in to see if it would take care of the problem. Normally the wiring is pretty clean looking.
I didn't know about braiding the wires but I will certainly do that. That will be an easy fix.
The wires are just flopping around because I removed the mamba monster pro right before this run and put the sidewinder in to see if it would take care of the problem. Normally the wiring is pretty clean looking.
the "braiding the wires" thing has been talked about and advised for a while. so definately do it.
i said something about the "flopping wires" because nothing's tied down, or tie-wraped, or anything, and loose wires tend to develop unforeseen issues that wouldn't normally exist and are hard to pinpoint later. it is even like your antenna wire, even with a spektrum I use a small antenna tube shoe-gooed to the chassis to keep it from flopping and getting damaged.
#15
okay, the blue velcro fooled me. I thought it was shrinkwrap on a rx pack.
the "braiding the wires" thing has been talked about and advised for a while. so definately do it.
i said something about the "flopping wires" because nothing's tied down, or tie-wraped, or anything, and loose wires tend to develop unforeseen issues that wouldn't normally exist and are hard to pinpoint later. it is even like your antenna wire, even with a spektrum I use a small antenna tube shoe-gooed to the chassis to keep it from flopping and getting damaged.
the "braiding the wires" thing has been talked about and advised for a while. so definately do it.
i said something about the "flopping wires" because nothing's tied down, or tie-wraped, or anything, and loose wires tend to develop unforeseen issues that wouldn't normally exist and are hard to pinpoint later. it is even like your antenna wire, even with a spektrum I use a small antenna tube shoe-gooed to the chassis to keep it from flopping and getting damaged.


I'll be rebuilding the truck this evening. I bought an xxx-t at the track yesterday that has the graphite chassis and a bunch of other graphite goodies. Basicly it is going to be a bunch of spare parts for my speed-t. I imagine I did at least $70 or $80 of damage to my truck yesterday if I would buy the parts at retail so it only made sense to buy the complete truck with all the goodies on it even though I will just be tearing it apart. When I rebuild it I will do the receiver antenna in the tube like you mentioned. I'll also braid the wires to the motor.



