The speed T does use the same transmission...

Who braids their motor wires, seriously?

Flopping wires won't cause this either, all the wires are shielded...This guy isn't experiencing electrical problems

when the manufacturers go as far as suggesting things I'm always all ears



NICE RIG, definately something to brag about




jsyk - flopping wires have a way of rubbing that "shielding" off

I don't know what the cure was other than the diff was rebuilt properly.
It wasn't my truck, & I was only part of the initial trouble shooting...

Make sure there is a little grease between the teeth, or swap out the idler for a composite.
Also make sure the diff grease in the diff isn't dried out...

If there is a "fail safe" built into the radio kit, make sure it is set properly.
I don't use Spektrum, so I'm unsure of all of the features.

I run ceramic balls only because they are so smooth, otherwise a good quality hardened steel is fine. Not all balls are equal (Losi being the worst).

I rebuilt the diff on Saturday, new rings sanded down but I did not replace the balls. I am running carbide bearings so I didn't think they would need replaced yet but I didn't think about the possibility (no matter how slight) that they could affect the signal. Acer doesn't have 12 ceramic balls in stock so I will have to wait to order them. Even if they don't help with this problem they should last long enough to make them worth the money.

The Spektrum failsafe is just set during binding, it is not adjustable. I checked the manual earlier today after talking to Castle and them telling me that it most likely had something to do with the failsafe. I'll probably give Horizon a call this evening to see if they have any settings suggestions for the radio.

I can throw a little grease in the transmission as well.

I had this same problem at trackside during the tcs race last year. [Mini class w/ silver can] After asking around a guy refferred me to a guy that worked at horizon hobby that was also at this race, [Garyk I think] and he looked at my setup, I also had the antenna wire looped on top of the sr3000 receiver. He advised me to get it up in the air, plus he changed my antenna on the module. There is an updated longer [ internally] antenna that some modules need. It hasn't happened since. Hope this helps.
Larry.

Looped the RX antenna over the RX?? That's asking for trouble. This is most likely the culprit. Sounds like the RX didn't have a clear signal.

Spektrum Failsafe - always sets itself during the binding. If you want it to brake then hold the brake on when turning on the TX during binding. If you let it sit at neutral then that's what the failsafe will default to, neutral. Same with the steering, if you leave it centered while binding it will default to center on failsafe.

Hopefully that is what caused it. I'll be fixing that as well as braiding the wires to the motor and cleaning up all the rest of the wiring (try to always do that) when I rebuild the truck this evening.

Thanks, I missed that part but I will make sure to set it to either brake or neutral.

It's not a common practice, in fact I will go as far as to call it rare...






Yea, DEFINITELYnot my rig, just used the picture for an example.




jsyk - flopping wires have a way of rubbing that "shielding" off [/QUOTE]

and you can just as easily wear the shielding by folding the wires and bundling them too tight as the shielding tends to get stressed at the folds.

rofl ^^^

Braiding the motor wires will not be so helpful. Braiding or twisting is commonly used in telecommunications to eliminate crosstalk on heavily crowded cables (pairs of wires packed in as tight as possible to save space). the space between the motor wires will not be subject to the same EMF. Hitec is one of the few that twists their servo leads.

Of course keeping the RX antenna and servo leads off of a carbon fiber deck wouldn't hurt and neatly bundling the servo wires makes a clean easy to work on area.

Probably why you don't see motor wires braided, not to mention the extra length of wire it would take to get 12 gauge wire braided to go the same distance as unbraided wire.

I agree with tiding up the wires but I pardoned the mess seeing how the truck is tore into multiple pieces...

"These systems are capable of putting out over 1,000 watts of power. As a comparison, an average 10 turn system might be capable of around 200 watts. When that much power is flowing from the ESC to the motor, you need to be careful about your radio installation. If the antenna is near, or laying against those high power wires, you will have very poor range. Make sure to locate the Rx and antenna routing with as much physical separation as possible from the motor wires. Another helpful tip for any electric powered vehicle, is to keep those wires as short as possible (less resistance = better voltage and more power) and also twisting or braiding them helps to choke the energy fields that surround them. So remember – short and twisted/braided motor wires not only improves range, but also leads to a neater installation and more power!"
http://www.castlecreations.com/suppo...ing_guide.html

plenty of other links = http://search.yahoo.com/search?ei=ut...%20wires&type=

After a rather expensive race day followed by a long day at work I came home and got to work on resuscitating Skittles. It took a little while and a bfh but I got 'er back up and running. All she needs now is a front shock tower and she will be ready to run.

List of broken parts:

Chassis
Front bumper / skid plate
Front pivot block
Front shock tower
Lower shock mount
Front Kickplate
Front Bulkhead
Steering/Servo mount assembly
Heavy duty rod end
Titanium turnbuckle
Front wheel

Here she is now, ready for action.

Hope you get it sorted out man.

The reincarnated Skittles truck ran perfect last night. I put yet another new esc in it, another mamba max pro. I also put in another new receiver. I put the wire in an antenna tube and shoe goo'd it to the chassis as suggested. I braided the wires from the esc to the motor as suggested. I re-routed all the wires to try to avoid interference.

I also changed the shock fluids to 30 in front, 40 in the rear with zero rebound in all four. I managed to win both heats, tq, and I won the main by about three laps over second place.

Anyway, thanks for all of the tips. I'm not sure what exactly was the problem but I'm pretty sure it is solved.