Originally Posted by rajeshs (Post 7553471)

Thanks - for replying.

Well you are right :) The tip was covered with black sticky kind of coating.

I got a new replacement tip and I feel like I got off a bicycle and sat in a Mustang!!!!!!!

It solders under 2 secs. Infact now it heats up the wires so fast that I sometimes melt a previously soldered connection that is near by (if the same wire is running between them).

So I am having to learn to - first let the previous solder cool. Then solder the next connection and be quick about it!

Oh by-the-way :) After I had asked you about sanding and filing the tip and hadn't heard from you for a couple of days - I actually went ahead and did it!!!

And yes - I damaged the tip :) But I learnt from this experience.

What I am trying to learn now is - applying the heat to the component and the solder to the component. Occassionally am getting the solder all stuck up on the tip! and nothing on the component.

I hope I am done bothering you :) Thanks for the detailed post - I guess I am good to go on my own now.

Originally Posted by TheGasman (Post 8429132)

First off let me say that this is an awesome "write up" thread!! Since I am giving up nitro and committing to electric, its time I get the tools of the trade. I think I have found the soldering station I want below. Its the Team Checkpoint TC950. I believe I read it is the same thing as the Hakko 936 but $10 cheaper. Correct? My biggest concern is I have read alot where different people recommend getting a good solder and good flux. I was wondering if anyone can suggest exact brands, and where to get them? I have looked at several big hardware stores but really didnt come up with much. Any good places online to get soldering supplies? Thanks!

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWFJ8&P=0

Originally Posted by orgnoi1 (Post 8195189)

Very good write up... and while I do TONS of soldering I still learned a trick or two from reading it... thanks for taking the time... and... happy Veterans Day!

Originally Posted by drewmugx5t (Post 8435489)

I want a good iron but not too fond of spending $80 if I don't have to. Someone suggested this iron on our local forum. http://http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7508. What do you think? He says he has owned for about 5 years and has never had to replace the tip. And he uses it for work as well as at the track. Thanks for the awesome tutorial.

Originally Posted by drewmugx5t (Post 8463844)

Marine can you suggest a good place to get the liquid rma flux in a smaller quantity? All I'm finding is the pens and gallon sizes of flux. I did find a 2oz. Tub of rma paste flux. Is that stuff any good or is the liquid better? Here is the link http://www.frys.com/product/6479492

Originally Posted by schnellschnell (Post 8486640)

Thanks for the well written information.

I am about to order some 63/37 solder and they come in different thicknesses. You mentioned buying the thinnest (I can only get one) which is .6mm. They also have .8 and 1.0.

Seems pretty thin, for 1/8 scale car and 450 class heli soldering would a .8 be more ideal?

Thanks again,

j

Originally Posted by CWatters (Post 8494596)

I haven't read all of this thread but there is one thing I couldn't see mentioned and that's the size of the bit/iron is more important than the power of the iron.

When you apply the iron to the workpiece the workpiece cools the bit. If the bit has too little thermal mass the temperature will drop a lot and it's very unlikely the heating element in the iron can compensate and reheat the iron fast enough. An iron with twice the copper mass is usually better than one with twice the wattage (although obviously they go hand in hand to some extent).

Originally Posted by drewmugx5t (Post 8504425)

I got my iron today. I used it to shorten my throttle servo wires. I was able to use the tiny tip to do it Inside the case so I don't have a splice in my wires. The iron worked perfectly heated up really fast. I am really impressed so far. I will give another report as I use it more. The rma flux I got worked really well too. Iron was set at 650 degrees.

Originally Posted by racer53 (Post 8506446)

I just read your soldering "lesson"...GREAT JOB...i already solder but it was cool to read over this...

Originally Posted by marine6680 (Post 6489163)

I was trained in the Navy/Marine Corps soldering school...

Originally Posted by Dave H (Post 8689434)

Been a while, needs a bump.

Originally Posted by BlueEagle (Post 8715211)

Thanks much for posting this Marine6680. As someone who has been doing this off/on for about 20 years from trial and error, your post and videos have definitely shown me what I've been doing wrong. Hopefully I'll never have another DNF due to a solder joint coming loose after I redo all my wiring this weekend. :)

Originally Posted by icebreaka (Post 8729510)

Hi,

Just wondering if I've bought the right solder. I went to an electronics store and got the cheapest I could find $1.95 60% tin 40% lead. Is that good enough?

I can buy solder from my LHS if I need to, they sell the following:

Much More Super Solder:
Ag:4%, Sn:62%, PB:34%
Thickness:1.0mm
Temperature:179degrees Celcious
26grams

And they also sell "NOVAK LEAD FREE SOLDER 15G"

Thanks for your help!

Originally Posted by Chip73 (Post 8731958)

Best write up on soldering so far. Thought I was doing it right but went and bought the 63/37 lead solder and flux. Night and day, made a world of difference. I think my tip is ruined since I was using sand paper to clean it but lesson learned. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Delawareguy (Post 8794388)

This may have been asked already in this thread and if so I apologize but why is a soldering station better than a soldering iron? Is the performance that much better to justify the price difference?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by Toh WL (Post 6745087)

I suggest a video clip is just good enough for beginners. As many will be blur when reading the texts.

Originally Posted by SPN (Post 8801385)

Not sure if this has been mentioned, but the new Hakko FX-888 Station is the newer model to the 936. This iron is awesome...smaller foot print and better performance then the 936.

I can also get these irons for anyone interested. (PM for pricing)

I've received great feedback from the those who have used my iron this past weekend at the Elite Indoor Challenge.

Carey

Originally Posted by Chook1e (Post 8803186)

Must first state excellent thread. I have purchased a few 2nd hand parts recently, any tips on de-soldering / clean-up of existing components?

Originally Posted by rcpocky (Post 8804589)

I can't post links yet, but this is a video on soldering for beginners.

videos.rcnightmare.com/rc-solder-how-to-safety-tips.html
Hope it helps!

Marine- great great post. Never too much information!!