Yeah... I guess I forgot about that...

Even if I were to find my stash of old solder it's probably 20+ years old anyway. It's stuff my grandfather brought home from work YEARS ago when he worked for Bendix (then bought by Allied Signal, Now Honeywell) as an EE.

It's been working good for the years I've been in the hobby though... Which is probably 10 or so.

Anybody got a good source on solder anyway?

That is the right kind and that is a good brand. The DOM is smudged a bit but I can see Jan of 08, but don't hold me to that. Amazon sells it for around $25 for a spool and an online electronics place will be around $30.

The older stuff will work fine, so long as it was stored well indoors, but the flux core will be dry and it may be corroded on the outside. Just use extra flux and it will work and flow pretty well.

Yeah that is on the thin side for batteries and ESCs, but if you can only have one roll, the thinner stuff is more versatile. You can always double or triple wind some to use on larger components like you said.

Traxxas confirmed that the solder tabs of the TRX connectors are brass coated. No word if the plug end is gold or not, no specs on the traxxas site that I seen but other places list it as gold.

True also, it's very common I see ppl having wires disconnected from motor. Not forgetting ESC poofed.... including solder leads spill on the car bodyshell in between race.

I am going to try to get a video made. I will try to get it done at work on break. I will need to do it in our Back shop area because there are no cameras allowed near the aircraft. :sneaky: The Back shop is a general use area, so its not as tidy and organized as I like but will do fine.

So the statements "Wide surface area, gold-plated terminals" and "Two sets of gold metal pins" on Towerhobbies can be false? bad thing to know :(

and I read that "Brass is only 28% as conductive as copper. Some bronzes are as low as 7% as conductive as copper", so why this choice??

Great, thanks!

Well it solders well, and its a thin layer so the resistance is not that big of a deal.

And I forgot my camera today, will try to get it made when I go in on Saturday.

Do you suggest to use the added RMA rosin for gold or brass coated surfaced too?

Thanks!

Flux is always a help, on nice new shiny parts and wire, a thin coat is enough. Those flux pens work well on new parts.

I got the radio shack 64-053 for christmas but, I can't find any tips. Anyone know where to get them or will a different model have tips for this? In store by me do not carry them.
Looks like its a Madell AT201D, still haveing a hard time finding tips though.

You can try their website.

If you can post pics of the tip out of the iron, I might can help. I need to see the bottom half and the base (very bottom) of the tip, also a pic of the iron without the tip and the inside of where the tip sits in the iron.

Ok, I’m in the process of selecting the best products to buy for soldering the Tekin RX8 ESC&motor connectors and Traxxas plugs, so I finished my research on this PDF catalog of the products of Kester: http://www.bleifreiloeten.de/euro-to...ester_2005.pdf

The doubts are:

1) Sn63Pb37 or Sn62PB36Ag02?
A.f.a.i.k Sn63Pb37 has the advantage to have a fix melting point of 361°F while the Sn62PB36Ag02 has the disadvantage of having a not-fix melting point of 354-372 and the advantage of being more electrically conductive (correct me if I’m wrong).
What alloy is the best?

2) Kester 186 series Rosin Mildly-Activated (RMA) flux is available in 18, 25 or 36 percent solids formulations. What RMA formulation is the best?

3) the cored wire solder with RMA is described as “mildly activated rosin cored wire for sensitive electronic and military applications” while that with RA is described as “activated rosin core with excellent wetting action. Industry standard for most electrical and electronic hand soldering.”
About the “residue removal method” for both they write “Not required for most applications. May be removed by solvent or Kester’s #5768 Bio-Kleen saponifer”.
Does this description suggest the RA cored wire for my application? (because I don’t think that we can talk about “sensitive electronic” here)

4) the “metal solderability chart” states that if I’m trying to solder to “platinum, gold, copper, tin, solder, palladium, silver” I can use the RA or RMA cored wires (both are ok), while if I’m trying to solder to “nickel, cadmium, brass, lead, bronze, rhodium, beryllium copper” only RA cored wire is ok (RMA cored wire is not ok).
You wrote that Traxxas uses brass on their plugs. Does that implies that I should prefer RA cored wire? What’s the material that coats the RX8/T8 leads?

5) The cored wire is available with flux in three different percentages: 50 (1.1% weight), 58 (2.2% weight), 66 (3.3% weight).
What should I prefer? And what combination of cored wire + additional flux should I choose?

6) The cored wire is available in 0.25, 0.40, 0.50, 0.64, 0.75, 1.0, 1.2, 1.5, 2.5, 3.0 mm (or 0.010, 0.015, 0.020, 0.025, 0.031, 0.040, 0.050, 0.062, 0.093, 0.125 inches).
What do I choose?


Update: here's the latest/current PDF from Kester: http://www.kester.com/en-US/marketin...%208-02-07.pdf

1) 63/37 is much easier to use than any other solder due to the single melting point, and the wettability of lead solders. the other has silver and is stronger, not better electrically. The extra strength is not needed, the only time the solder should be under that much stress is in a severe crash, and you have other problems if the crash is bad enough to break solder joints.

2) Solids content really will not matter to the average user. High percentage is for circuit boards that have high density of components. More sticky, a bit stronger, and less can be used during production assembly. It does leave more residue to clean with the higher percentage

3) RA is stronger and not really needed on new parts often. Use RMA it is better for your iron as well. I also suggest cleaning always.

4) RMA will work. The military uses RMA only, because it give the best balance of flux's different properties. Stick with RMA for general use work.

As far as what is on the tekin posts, I could not tell you, their customer service should be able to.

5) New components and non-corroded parts don't need much flux. I would get a medium amount of flux core for general use. Even the smaller amount is good for new parts. and just a light coat is good for extra flux, try the flux pen/re-work pen.

6) If you plan on soldering anything smaller than a battery connector, .5mm is a good size. For ESC and connectors the 1mm will work well. The smaller stuff can always be doubled up for larger parts. The .75 might be easier to use on connectors and ESC's, preventing using too much.

7) Don't over think it. ;) It isn't a fighter jet. :lol:

I read somewhere, there are heat resistance solder. You need a higher wattage solder gun to melt. What do u call that.

This I believe is industrial grade. Which prevents melting at high temp high current draw.

There are solders that require very high heat, most (if not all) are not for electrical purposes.

Thanks Marine, you're of great help


Now the choice came down to one of these wires:

a) 24-6337-0027 Sn63Pb37 0.75mm flux core size 66 RA
b) 24-6337-9710 Sn63Pb37 0.75mm flux core size 66 RMA
c) 24-6337-9713 Sn63Pb37 0.75mm flux core size 58 RMA
(no other core sizes exist in the last catalog of the RA and RMA types)
d) 14-6337-0031 Sn63Pb37 0.75mm NO flux core

and to one of these flux-pens:

a) 83-1018-0186 186-18 RMA No-Clean
b) 83-1000-0186 186 RMA No-Clean

What do you think it’s the best combination?

C for solder
B for flux pen (ignore the no clean bit :lol: )

Very good, thanks :)

Other dilemmas:

In the Kester data sheet of the RA cored wire http://www.kester.com/Data%20Sheets%...14Jun07%29.pdf they wrote this about the "no-clean" issue:
"Kester 44 possesses excellent fluxing ability, the flux residue is non-corrosive and non-conductive under normal conditions of use. When exposed to an elevated temperature and humidity environment (38°C, 94% RH) for 72 hours, there is no evidence of corrosion caused by the flux residue. Throughout its many years of wide usage, 44 Rosin Flux has produced many billions of soldered connections. In all these billions of solder joints, involving the most delicate and critical of electrical and electronic components, there has never been an authentic instance of corrosion by the flux residue under normal conditions of use. This mild property of the residue permits leaving the flux on the assembly for many applications."
Note that they wrote this for the RA cored wire. What do you think about it?

In the data sheet of the RMA cored wire at http://www.kester.com/Data%20Sheets%...15Jun07%29.pdf they wrote this:
"Process Considerations:
Solder iron tip temperatures are most commonly between 315-371°C (600-700°F) for Sn63Pb37 and Sn62Pb36Ag02 alloys and 371-427°C (700-800°F) for lead-free alloys. Heat both the land area and component lead to be soldered with the iron prior to adding Kester 285 cored wire. Apply the solder wire to the land area or component lead. Do not apply the wire directly to the soldering iron tip. If needed, Kester 186 and 186-18 Mildly Activated Rosin Flux may be used as a compatible liquid flux to aid in reworking soldered joints. Kester 186 and 186-18 Mildly Activated Rosin Flux are also available in Flux-Pens® for optimum board cleanliness."
Do they have a good reason for suggesting the use of external flux only for reworking soldered joints?

I see that their rosin flux cleaner, the "Saponifier 5768 Bio-Kleen", is sold in a mimimum quantity of 1 galloon for about $100, that's too much for our use even considering that it only lasts a few years...
So... what alternative commercial rosin flux cleaner would you suggest to take?

I recommend cleaning always, just to be safe. The flux must be heated to be rendered inactive, flux can run and drip, and that drip will not get hot and be made inert.

Flux is recommend always, they are referring to rework/repair, which is where most manufacturing plants will be using liquid fluxes. They use paste fluxes during automated soldering by machines.

Use isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol, and a small stiff natural hair brush to clean with. Acid or chemical brushes are available.

BTW- Video will come soon, work has been hectic.

good info. sometimes we all rush and have those 'dull' looking joints. not the pretty shiny ones. it happens.

R

Well I tried to make a video today, but the video quality was bad. So I will be trying again tomorrow.

If you want excellent HD (1280x720) VIDEO quality (and 10Mpx pictures) indoor, i.e. in low light conditions, I highly suggest the Sony WX1

Hey all, I've seen this thread in the past and wanted to try to help. I have just posted a really basic soldering tutorial on our site and YouTube page for folks to check out. It might help answer some questions regarding technique, what not to do, the right solder to use, etc.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Articles...ArticleID=2094

+ YouTube Video

I hope you find it useful!

Nice video, better quality than mine lol. I suggest 63/37 solder, but 60/40 is good as well.

And thank you for stressing tip care!

Ok, been having problems getting the video to upload to youtube, but its working now. Got part one loaded, part 2 is in process and will give links soon.

Video is up in first post. Links to youtube.

Good Camera, yes, but I was the cameraman, editor and producer of the video. I'd say that I was the on-screen talent but that's using the term "talent" rather loosely :lol:

If you want you can post a link to our tutorial in your first post. I'll paste the link below for you, that way you don't have to go searching for it.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Articles...ArticleID=2094

Linked, thanks

You da man!!!!
 

I read your post last night and all i can say is awesome!! I knew I wasn't the brightest when it came to soldering, now I know how little i really knew lol... Here's just a few problems I now realize. I believe my solder is too old, about 12 yrs ago i bought it and hasn't been stored in a sealed package! I knew that darn soldering GUN was no good, it's going in the trash!! I am starting over with all new equipment, going out to purchase a real soldering iron. Definately going to find the 63/37 solder, getting some liquid flux, as i now realize the paste i was using really is tougher to use.
Thanks for the great info:nod::nod:

No problem, good luck. Remember to get a big tip, the checkpoint comes with a larger tip, but how big it actually is, I do not know.

I make the vid finally and no replies... :rolleyes: lol

Videos look good. I'm looking for a good source for RMA flux. I picked up some RA flux at Fry's but they didn't have any RMA flux. It also seemed like when using flux, the solder really wicked up the wire a bit. Any tips on preventing that?

RA flux will work fine if that is all you have, just clean the residue left over very well.

The solder wicks up the wire because the flux wicks up the wire before you tin. RA is more active and will allow a bit more wicking. Pour a bit of flux into a small open container, like a bottle cap/top stick it somewhere warm and let it dry out and get thick. Use just a little of that instead of the liquid when tinning wires and it will not wick as bad.

(you can use a hair drier for about 10 min to dry it out quicker, just be careful, and remember the dry flux is thinner when warm, so don't over dry it.)

Very good video. Thx for sharing your knowledge.

SMTmax for your soldering tips BEST PRICE IN THE USA!!!
 

Hi members,:sweat:
We stock soldering tips that fit Hakko, Madell, Weller and the Radio shack soldering station. Our company name is SMTmax. I cannot put our website here but if you google us, you will find our website Call us (951) 543-4543 were located in Corona, CA. It look similar to Madell. But if you call us we offer 15% discount on any of our soldering tips and also free shipping if purchase more than $20. I highly recommend us for any parts or spare for your soldering station. You will not be disappointed but satisfy with our product. :nod:

Great thread! I bought an Aoyue digital solder station for cheap a while back...works great. It's got a ceramic element, disctrete temp control, etc. and you can get it at Amazon for $50. Good deal! I'm new here, so I can't post links yet, but it's easily searchable on the site.

later!

For me, the only reason I didn't see it yet is that I waiting some weeks for the material (Kester solder and flux) to arrive to me in Italy. For better remembering I wanted to study the video immediately before I make the first soldering with the new material :)
But ok, you convinced me, I watch the videos now and will watch them again before soldering.
I will comment soon ;)

Ok, after reading the theory and watching all the videos (noticing some differences) I try to make a summary of the real-life steps needed for efficient soldering as I understood them:

1) moisturize the sponge
2) set the temp of the iron (see first post for the numbers)
3) turn on the iron
4) apply the flux to the post and the wire
5) after the temp led blinks, clean the tip on the sponge and cover it with a thin layer of fresh solder ("tin the tip")
6) shovel the solder from the tip to the post, clean the tip and tin it, shovel the solder to the wire
7) put post and wire in stable contact, clean the tip and tin it, apply the tip on the contact point on a side and the solder wire on the other side (not directly in contact) or use the tip over both to press them without adding other soldering to solder them
8) at the end of the soldering, clean the tip and widely tin it
9) turn off the iron as soon as possible
10) clean the soldering zones from flux residue with isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol with a little brush and/or blotting paper


Please correct where it's wrong or even just not ideal.


PS: RCGaryK what produces the heat at 7:30? your hands? :)

Marine, in your first post you wrote "I do not see Randy using flux, but I still suggest you use it. Also, notice he heats the components with the iron and applies the solder to the component. He is not putting solder on the iron and then using the iron to apply the melted solder. That is called shoveling, and is not good technique."

Can you please clarify what of the two methods you cited is called shoveling and is not a good technique?

The "Owner's Manual" of the Tekin RX8 combo says to "Pre-Heat both the wire and the post" before putting them in contact each other and soldering them.

You never mentioned pre-heating. Is it better to do or to avoid it?