AMB Transponder Repair
#1
AMB Transponder Repair
Has anyone ever sent their transponder to AMB for repairs? How was the experience? What as the cost? The wires broke on mine, to short for me to be able to solder them myself and I don't think I should crack the case on it. For what they charge for these things you'd think they'd give us a break on the repair price, at least I hope this is the case.
#2
Some of the manuals that come with PT's tell you how to repair them... some don't. It's also in some of the decoder manuals.
Check this thread out.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...ansponder.html
I know a few people that have sent PT's back for wire repair. Some got them for fixed for $0 all the way to $10 off a new one.
Check this thread out.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...ansponder.html
I know a few people that have sent PT's back for wire repair. Some got them for fixed for $0 all the way to $10 off a new one.
#3
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
I have done a few and it is even easier than posted on the other thread.
The entire board is encased in epoxy inside the plastic and must be carefully excavated to get to the solder points on the board and one slip will ruin the unit. This method does not require any access to the board.
The ones I have done have some free wire inside the end cap where the wire go in, enough to splice on a new lead inside the casing.
Here's what to do. You will need a heat gun, 1/4" wide flat blade screwdriver and soldering iron.
Gently heat the end of the transponder where the end cap is. Rotate it, heating evenly until the plastic just starts to look shiny.
Stand the transponder on its side on the bench, place the screwdriver blade on the top seam (the side of the transponder), pointing towards the end cap, while holding the opposite side of the transponder firmly on the bench. Tap the screwdriver and the end will pop free.
Flip over and repeat.
Strip and tin the very ends of the remaining wires inside the casing.
Insert a new lead through the hole in the end cap and tin the ends.
Lay the respective wires side by side with the cut ends facing the same direction and solder the wires together.
I did not take any pictures at the time, here is a very crappy drawing to show how the wires should go
:
Fold one set to one side and the other set to the other side.
Clean up the end cap and Shoe Goo back together.
An improvement on the original design would be to open up the hole where the wires go through the cap to make room for a short piece of heat shrink tubing that will keep the wires from flexing right at the entry point.
It is hard to explain in writing, but is fairly quick and easy to do
.
The entire board is encased in epoxy inside the plastic and must be carefully excavated to get to the solder points on the board and one slip will ruin the unit. This method does not require any access to the board.
The ones I have done have some free wire inside the end cap where the wire go in, enough to splice on a new lead inside the casing.
Here's what to do. You will need a heat gun, 1/4" wide flat blade screwdriver and soldering iron.
Gently heat the end of the transponder where the end cap is. Rotate it, heating evenly until the plastic just starts to look shiny.
Stand the transponder on its side on the bench, place the screwdriver blade on the top seam (the side of the transponder), pointing towards the end cap, while holding the opposite side of the transponder firmly on the bench. Tap the screwdriver and the end will pop free.
Flip over and repeat.
Strip and tin the very ends of the remaining wires inside the casing.
Insert a new lead through the hole in the end cap and tin the ends.
Lay the respective wires side by side with the cut ends facing the same direction and solder the wires together.
I did not take any pictures at the time, here is a very crappy drawing to show how the wires should go
:
Fold one set to one side and the other set to the other side.
Clean up the end cap and Shoe Goo back together.
An improvement on the original design would be to open up the hole where the wires go through the cap to make room for a short piece of heat shrink tubing that will keep the wires from flexing right at the entry point.
It is hard to explain in writing, but is fairly quick and easy to do
.
#4
Thanks everyone. I was able to cut the end cap strip enough wire to solder up up some new wires and connector from an old battery back. It went well. I didn't worry about sealing up the end too much since the whole transponder is packed in glue is this particular one is going permanently in my Slash sealed radio box. I'm glad I could fix it though!
Craig.. good idea on soldering the leads that particular way, I wish I had done that. I did shrink wrap the hell out of the leads though so it's good to go. And like I said, now that it's permanently in the Slash sealed box it's no worries about the end being open.
One local guy who cut the end off to fix a wire ended up getting clear shrink wrap and wrapping the whole transponder. That's a good idea. I've got two new transponders on the way, I think I might put some shrink wrap or flex tubing down the length of the wires. since they'll be permanently installed in a couple of different cars.
Craig.. good idea on soldering the leads that particular way, I wish I had done that. I did shrink wrap the hell out of the leads though so it's good to go. And like I said, now that it's permanently in the Slash sealed box it's no worries about the end being open.
One local guy who cut the end off to fix a wire ended up getting clear shrink wrap and wrapping the whole transponder. That's a good idea. I've got two new transponders on the way, I think I might put some shrink wrap or flex tubing down the length of the wires. since they'll be permanently installed in a couple of different cars.
#7
Tech Master
iTrader: (18)
guy i can fix them i put new case and new wire on them for $35 bucks that with shipping them back to you
and if you like as long as i know you amb still works i can send you one that has been fixed already
here is how they will look
and if you like as long as i know you amb still works i can send you one that has been fixed already
here is how they will look
Last edited by td-civ; 04-10-2011 at 06:55 PM.