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Old 08-08-2011 | 06:53 AM
  #1231  
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Is the 92744 lipo compatible?
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Old 08-08-2011 | 06:33 PM
  #1232  
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Originally Posted by mhavlena
Are you using HV servos with your life pack? If so, do you have good runtime?

Thx
Yes, I am using High Voltage Sanwa HVS-ZS. Runtime is heavily dependent on the type of servos, driving style and driving condition. As for me, I only drained around 500-600mah after an hour of bashing... Maybe I should drive harder!
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Old 08-09-2011 | 07:34 AM
  #1233  
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Has anyone ever had trouble getting a 92744 to power up during binding? I have three receivers, purchased used, that are supposed to be fine as they all came out of working buggies before they were shipped to me.

The positive and negative are definitely in the right spots. I hold the bind button, turn it on, and no lights?? I did get one of the three to power up and bind. I'm using a m11x radio, and it's making me crazy!! I have the radio on the bind screen, but I wouldn't think that would matter in getting the receiver to power up.

Any thoughts would be appreciated, I'm new to this system, thanks!

Brandon
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Old 08-09-2011 | 11:52 PM
  #1234  
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For an M11x with a FHSS2 3CH receiver, how do you set up the switches so that CH3 acts on/off switch? (I'm setting up LEDs)

I noticed that the modulation for FHSS2 is either 2CH or 4CH, what do you set in case of this 3CH RX?

The RX is a Ansmann 3CH which is the OEM Airtronics 92524

Thanks.
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Old 08-10-2011 | 01:23 AM
  #1235  
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i purchaces my M11 and is a awsome radio got a alloy wheel for it and some decals and is the bomb now. certainly can not blame my equipment anymaore
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Old 08-10-2011 | 06:47 PM
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Is the 451 fx compatible w the MMM ESC and the 7940th from Hitec?
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Old 08-12-2011 | 05:21 PM
  #1237  
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looking at a transmitter bag will a m11x and m11 fit in the same case ?
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Old 08-12-2011 | 05:24 PM
  #1238  
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Yep, everything's fine except the aerials are in slightly different places. I've got a SpeedMind M11 case & when I got my M11x I just cut out a little bit of foam & it now fits the M11x like a glove.
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Old 08-14-2011 | 01:53 PM
  #1239  
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Hi guys

I have had a strange problem with my RX451 today

the car was shutting down randomly on the track and i thought the speedo was at fault because if i switched the car off then on again it was ok , but i noticed the blue BIND light was still on , then the last time it shot off the track at full throttle and shut down , it seams to be the RX451 has stopped working , swapped it with my spare and it is perfect again

I have no blue light now and the reciever doesnt power up , tried re binding but nothing , Anyone had this problem before or can help me fix it ??
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Old 08-14-2011 | 02:02 PM
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My recommendation is to contact Airtronics Support as to me it seems there wouldn't likely be any simple fix for what you describe. Sounds like maybe some part of the microproccesor inside the rx might have got fried or something?

Keep us updated about what the actual problem is or was caused by & how Airtronics rectifies the problem.
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Old 08-14-2011 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by aaron125
My recommendation is to contact Airtronics Support as to me it seems there wouldn't likely be any simple fix for what you describe. Sounds like maybe some part of the microproccesor inside the rx might have got fried or something?

Keep us updated about what the actual problem is or was caused by & how Airtronics rectifies the problem.
well i am in europe so it will be LRP i contact for help

I will let you know as it is only 6 months old
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Old 08-14-2011 | 04:03 PM
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Duh! I didn't notice that you're in the land of green coffee. I'm in Australia but even though on Airtronics' site they say they won't provide support to anyone outside the US, they were very helpful when I emailed them a few months ago. But I'm not sure if they'd actually repair/replace your RX, my guess is they'd likely tell you where to go - as in back to either your retailer or LRP for warranty service.

Speaking of green coffee, it's getting to be about time for my morning umm... cuppa... of coffee.
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Old 08-15-2011 | 06:18 AM
  #1243  
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Default M11X steering help

Hey guys, I have noticed that all my cars seem to have steering that is much faster then other peoples cars that I drive. My Ebuggy, truggy and nitro buggy steer way to fast. All my vehicles are twichy on the steering.

I have had the radio for about a year and a half now. Turns out all the adjustments I have been making to the radio were not making a difference because the EXPO was INH instead of ACT. Boy I feel dumb.

I would like to mellow out the steering. I was reading the book last night and it seems like EXPO, ARC and speed are what I need to adjust.

I turned the EXPO and ARC all the way down. I turned the speed down to 35 to start out. I have not driven it since I made those changes.

What do you guys think? I appreciate the help.

Last edited by Sprinkler; 08-15-2011 at 06:36 AM.
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Old 08-15-2011 | 06:45 AM
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I know what you mean, I have tried some of the newer sub 0.10s high torque servos for both steering & throttle & I just found them way too sensitive & twitchy for my liking. Couldn't really use them at all unless I dialled in negative expo to compensate & relax things around neutral.

Now I'm running 5955/7955, which are identically spec'd at 0.15s 24kg (for me they're actually about 0.135s 26.5kg running on 2s LiFe) & I'm able to drive with much better accuracy, able to modulate throttle & brakes with so much more feel & ability to make the tiniest of throttle/brake/steering adjustments while driving that for me there's no point having the fastest servos or even anything faster than 0.10s.

I never tried using the speed adjustment setting on any radio, always used expo as what we (I) want is more control, not necessarily slower overall servo movement. And the way negative expo works, dulling near-neutral response & progressivly returning to full speed towards the end points is IMHO what is required because by the time a control is at the end of its travel, eg at or near full lock steering or full throttle, usually tiny, small changes are not required. When near full lock, it's very unlikely one would need to either add in a tiny bit more lock or remove just a tiny bit of lock because with that much steering angle, the car will only be in that specific situation for a tiny portion of 1 second. As in, turn into corner, dial in more lock & if anywhere near full lock you'd need to extremely quickly start relaxing on the steering or the car will loop out.

But with this sort of adjustments there can be no firm rules as it is 100% determined by only the driver's opinion & more importantly feel. Doesn't matter what works for anyone else or whichever champion if ti doesn't feel right or comfortable or easy to control for you or me. Hence the need to just try things out. For sure ask others what they do & why they have chosen whatever settings they use but still comes down to trying it & seeing if in one's own circumstance an improvement has been made.

Hope that helps you more than it confuses you.
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Old 08-15-2011 | 08:16 AM
  #1245  
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Originally Posted by aaron125
I know what you mean, I have tried some of the newer sub 0.10s high torque servos for both steering & throttle & I just found them way too sensitive & twitchy for my liking. Couldn't really use them at all unless I dialled in negative expo to compensate & relax things around neutral.

Now I'm running 5955/7955, which are identically spec'd at 0.15s 24kg (for me they're actually about 0.135s 26.5kg running on 2s LiFe) & I'm able to drive with much better accuracy, able to modulate throttle & brakes with so much more feel & ability to make the tiniest of throttle/brake/steering adjustments while driving that for me there's no point having the fastest servos or even anything faster than 0.10s.

I never tried using the speed adjustment setting on any radio, always used expo as what we (I) want is more control, not necessarily slower overall servo movement. And the way negative expo works, dulling near-neutral response & progressivly returning to full speed towards the end points is IMHO what is required because by the time a control is at the end of its travel, eg at or near full lock steering or full throttle, usually tiny, small changes are not required. When near full lock, it's very unlikely one would need to either add in a tiny bit more lock or remove just a tiny bit of lock because with that much steering angle, the car will only be in that specific situation for a tiny portion of 1 second. As in, turn into corner, dial in more lock & if anywhere near full lock you'd need to extremely quickly start relaxing on the steering or the car will loop out.

But with this sort of adjustments there can be no firm rules as it is 100% determined by only the driver's opinion & more importantly feel. Doesn't matter what works for anyone else or whichever champion if ti doesn't feel right or comfortable or easy to control for you or me. Hence the need to just try things out. For sure ask others what they do & why they have chosen whatever settings they use but still comes down to trying it & seeing if in one's own circumstance an improvement has been made.

Hope that helps you more than it confuses you.
That is really, really helpful to me. I bought the M11X under advisement and I am very, very happy but I tried to improve my driving by using the RX451R and speeding up response - fastest servo speed, etc. And as said above, all that happened for me is it became very,very twitchy. Until I read the above, I didn't know that EXPO would slow the steering down (e.g. less twitchy). I'm now investing in the normal 451 receiver rather than the R and normal Savox servos (these are plenty fast enough). So I think for me, reading the manual a few more times might help but any advice on setups (1/10th on-road) and their reasons for using them would be helpful. Has as been said, you can only trial and error for yourself but it would be useful to see what others use just to see.

Thanks in advance.

Is the RX451R is ok to use on normal settings? Many, many thanks again.
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