Airtronics M11X
01-29-2012 | 03:08 AM
#1501
Tech Elite
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,943
From: Belgium
I run all my cars with negative expo on the throttle channel. My nitrocar has about -15% of expo on the throttle channel, mbx6e -20%, Durango -45%, xray 0%.
As for the steering I don't like too much expo. The max I use on my offroad cars is -5%. But my touring car is very nervous so I use -15% on that one.
01-29-2012 | 06:00 AM
#1502
Guest
Posts: n/a
Speed Mind again
Sorry to sound like a broken record.
Stormer Hobbies carries Speed Mind just doesn't have the M11X. So that means he has a line on them and if some people shoot an email off to Sales@stormerhobbies requesting a bag they may just listen. I already shot an email off doing just that. For $22 and change you are a good $50 ahead of an aluminum case.
Cheers!
Stormer Hobbies carries Speed Mind just doesn't have the M11X. So that means he has a line on them and if some people shoot an email off to Sales@stormerhobbies requesting a bag they may just listen. I already shot an email off doing just that. For $22 and change you are a good $50 ahead of an aluminum case.
Cheers!
02-03-2012 | 04:07 PM
#1505
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,219
From: Melbourne, Australia
What did you actually do when you say that you "connected upside down the battery to transmitter"??
It should be impossible to do what you describe as there is no 'correct' way to plug in the battery pack as the M11x will work 100% ok with the plug connected in any orientation.
It's supposed to be a fool-proof solution, which I still think it is, so I'm wondering exactly what it is you've done and how you managed to connect your battery incorrectly when it shouldn't really be possible?
It should be impossible to do what you describe as there is no 'correct' way to plug in the battery pack as the M11x will work 100% ok with the plug connected in any orientation.It's supposed to be a fool-proof solution, which I still think it is, so I'm wondering exactly what it is you've done and how you managed to connect your battery incorrectly when it shouldn't really be possible?
02-06-2012 | 01:01 PM
#1506
Tech Regular
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 372
From: illinois
m11
Is the m11x trigger pull still 50/50 like the older m11 models or is it 70/30 like the 3pk and 4pk? I sold out a few years ago and just decided to get back into it so im just trying to catch up on all of the new equipment.
02-18-2012 | 09:41 AM
#1508
Tech Addict
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 608
For sure Lewis. The first thing I did after unboxing my M11x, before inserting a battery or turning it on, was to adjust the throttle and steering wheel tension settings to where I like them.
For the benefit of those who haven't used this type of tension control, the easiest way (for me) to know where to set the tension is to back it off, so I know what the least tension feels like, go to the other extreme, with full tension, give that a try and then go somewhere in the middle and start making final adjustments from there. That way, I know what the least and most tension feels like, so I know what my adjustment range is. Regardless, after a while, one gets a feel for what tension is preferred for the trigger and steering wheel and it's easy to set the tension from one TX to another.
Forgot to add, you should definitely be using the negative expo adjustment Lewis, it will help immensly with exactly the problem you describe as that's exactly what was happening to me, but with steering, not throttle. Once I dialled in the correct amount of negative expo, the amount of control and finesse went up by a huge amount and I definitely found it helped lower lap times as I didn't have to 'think' about how much to turn the wheel anymore, the car would simply steer where I wanted it to go and in the correct amount, not over-steering or under-steering (in the sense of moving the wheel, not sliding front or rear tires).
For the benefit of those who haven't used this type of tension control, the easiest way (for me) to know where to set the tension is to back it off, so I know what the least tension feels like, go to the other extreme, with full tension, give that a try and then go somewhere in the middle and start making final adjustments from there. That way, I know what the least and most tension feels like, so I know what my adjustment range is. Regardless, after a while, one gets a feel for what tension is preferred for the trigger and steering wheel and it's easy to set the tension from one TX to another.
Forgot to add, you should definitely be using the negative expo adjustment Lewis, it will help immensly with exactly the problem you describe as that's exactly what was happening to me, but with steering, not throttle. Once I dialled in the correct amount of negative expo, the amount of control and finesse went up by a huge amount and I definitely found it helped lower lap times as I didn't have to 'think' about how much to turn the wheel anymore, the car would simply steer where I wanted it to go and in the correct amount, not over-steering or under-steering (in the sense of moving the wheel, not sliding front or rear tires).
02-22-2012 | 05:48 PM
#1511
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,219
From: Melbourne, Australia
Depends which transmitter you're using too, not just the servo and rx. ALso, did you read the instruction manual for the RX461 - what does it say in there about SSR feature?
Either way, you're not gonna notice a single thing if you have SSR enabled or disabled, makes no difference at all to actual performance when in use/on the track.
IMHO I recommend if you want a faster servo, buy a faster servo. With the multitude of sub 0.08s servos available these days, some with very respectable torque specs, it isn't worth wasting your time bothering with the SSR crap (which does nothing and has never been shown to provide even the slightest improvemenmt to any servo, rx, etc.), just buy the servo with the specs/performance you actually want.
Either way, you're not gonna notice a single thing if you have SSR enabled or disabled, makes no difference at all to actual performance when in use/on the track.
IMHO I recommend if you want a faster servo, buy a faster servo. With the multitude of sub 0.08s servos available these days, some with very respectable torque specs, it isn't worth wasting your time bothering with the SSR crap (which does nothing and has never been shown to provide even the slightest improvemenmt to any servo, rx, etc.), just buy the servo with the specs/performance you actually want.
03-03-2012 | 04:44 PM
#1512
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 183
From: Tromso,Norway
Hi guy's i just bought a new M11X i was just wondering about one thing, when i'm in the menu to write different car/model name i can write in memory1 but then when i'm trying to swich to other memories it shows this text*Display mode only* samething happens when i'm trying to swich from fhss-3->fhss2/fhss.
Could this be because i don't have binded my reciver yet or what???
And if it's none of this, how do i switch to display mode then??? because i couldn't find anything about it in the manual....
Any help is good
Could this be because i don't have binded my reciver yet or what???
And if it's none of this, how do i switch to display mode then??? because i couldn't find anything about it in the manual....
Any help is good
03-03-2012 | 05:08 PM
#1513
Hi guy's i just bought a new M11X i was just wondering about one thing, when i'm in the menu to write different car/model name i can write in memory1 but then when i'm trying to swich to other memories it shows this text*Display mode only* samething happens when i'm trying to swich from fhss-3->fhss2/fhss.
Could this be because i don't have binded my reciver yet or what???
And if it's none of this, how do i switch to display mode then??? because i couldn't find anything about it in the manual....
Any help is good
Could this be because i don't have binded my reciver yet or what???
And if it's none of this, how do i switch to display mode then??? because i couldn't find anything about it in the manual....
Any help is good
03-03-2012 | 05:41 PM
#1514
I have a new m11x coming this thursday. I've been reading and seem to have conflicting reports on how long the included battery last. Will the included battery be able to last for a long nitro main?
03-03-2012 | 09:56 PM
#1515
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,219
From: Melbourne, Australia
I chucked the supplied battery away when I purchased my M11x and have run a 2300mAh LiPo since day 1. I would highly recommend using a LiPo battery with the M11x as this gives a guaranteed 12+ hours at the very least, if running the LCD backlight always on. If like most people, you set the LCD backlight to 30 seconds or so, a 2300mAh LiPo should give about 18+ hours.
I can't remember for sure, but I think the supplied battery is an ancient NiCd, not even a NiMH, so I would definitely suggest picking up a 2300mAh 2s LiPo for $20 from ebay (including worldwide shipping) and not having to worry about how long the battery will last. Recharge the LiPo every week or 2 and you will never have any problems with the battery running out in the middle of a race.
I can't remember for sure, but I think the supplied battery is an ancient NiCd, not even a NiMH, so I would definitely suggest picking up a 2300mAh 2s LiPo for $20 from ebay (including worldwide shipping) and not having to worry about how long the battery will last. Recharge the LiPo every week or 2 and you will never have any problems with the battery running out in the middle of a race.