Hobbywing ESC's
#811
1.have you calibrated your ESC before you run it?
2.have you set the Lipo to 4S? or Auto,
3. or maybe your motor is above the rated KV for 4S. *(ruled out)
1.6 Suitable Motor: * Note #1
When working with 4 cells Lipo: KV<=3000
4. or try changing your sensor wire...see if that helps.
5. maybe thermalling.....check temp.
after the motor cools down, does it still do the same problems?sometimes the low voltage protection will kick in if the battery cannot supply the draw of the motor, you can adjust the cutoff of the battery, experienced that HW cutoff voltage is not that precise, when tested with a VOM, voltage is way above the cutoff voltage.
cheers!
2.have you set the Lipo to 4S? or Auto,
3. or maybe your motor is above the rated KV for 4S. *(ruled out)
1.6 Suitable Motor: * Note #1
When working with 4 cells Lipo: KV<=3000
4. or try changing your sensor wire...see if that helps.
5. maybe thermalling.....check temp.
after the motor cools down, does it still do the same problems?sometimes the low voltage protection will kick in if the battery cannot supply the draw of the motor, you can adjust the cutoff of the battery, experienced that HW cutoff voltage is not that precise, when tested with a VOM, voltage is way above the cutoff voltage.
cheers!
2. I had the lipo cell count set to auto, but I tried setting it to 4s. Makes no difference.
3. Correct, motor is within allowed spec.
4. Both motors I tried are sensorless.
5. Temps were fine. I did let it sit for about an hour and cool. Makes no difference.
This problem occurs even with no load on the motor. Wheels in the air, or with the motor out of the mount. It's not load related. I understand how voltage dips with a load on the battery, but the pattern I described occurs regardless of load (even with no load other than the motor by itself).
#812
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
1. ESC is calibrated. I also re-calibrated to make sure in case it had somehow lost the calibration. Makes no difference.
2. I had the lipo cell count set to auto, but I tried setting it to 4s. Makes no difference.
3. Correct, motor is within allowed spec.
4. Both motors I tried are sensorless.
5. Temps were fine. I did let it sit for about an hour and cool. Makes no difference.
This problem occurs even with no load on the motor. Wheels in the air, or with the motor out of the mount. It's not load related. I understand how voltage dips with a load on the battery, but the pattern I described occurs regardless of load (even with no load other than the motor by itself).
2. I had the lipo cell count set to auto, but I tried setting it to 4s. Makes no difference.
3. Correct, motor is within allowed spec.
4. Both motors I tried are sensorless.
5. Temps were fine. I did let it sit for about an hour and cool. Makes no difference.
This problem occurs even with no load on the motor. Wheels in the air, or with the motor out of the mount. It's not load related. I understand how voltage dips with a load on the battery, but the pattern I described occurs regardless of load (even with no load other than the motor by itself).
#813
The first time I pull the trigger after turning the car on and letting the esc arm, the motor will run (seemingly normally) and motivate the car. After stopping, the motor does not run at all without giving it a nudge (i.e. a push start). Once it's moving again, it seems fine...until the car stops again.
#814
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
Thanks, but I don't think you read my original problem. I don't have an issue with cogging (and I'm ok with cogging since this is a sensorless motor).
The first time I pull the trigger after turning the car on and letting the esc arm, the motor will run (seemingly normally) and motivate the car. After stopping, the motor does not run at all without giving it a nudge (i.e. a push start). Once it's moving again, it seems fine...until the car stops again.
The first time I pull the trigger after turning the car on and letting the esc arm, the motor will run (seemingly normally) and motivate the car. After stopping, the motor does not run at all without giving it a nudge (i.e. a push start). Once it's moving again, it seems fine...until the car stops again.
goodluck.
#816
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
So, here is another newb asking another silly question, but even after reading through this thread, I'd like a personal response lol. I am about to get the 70a Short Course ESC from Hobbywing, and it says it is seals to resist splashes of water and accumulation of dust. But in the real world, how many have put it through damp conditions and still had a working ESC in the end?
#818
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
I'm still on the fence about what to get. That new SC8 WP looks mighty tempting with its waterproof rating. And of course it is 120a so loads more room for upgrading.
Do you think that the 120a SC8 WP is too large to have in a 1/10 buggy like the Kyosho Rb5? Or am I just being a baby? lol
#819
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
So, here is another newb asking another silly question, but even after reading through this thread, I'd like a personal response lol. I am about to get the 70a Short Course ESC from Hobbywing, and it says it is seals to resist splashes of water and accumulation of dust. But in the real world, how many have put it through damp conditions and still had a working ESC in the end?
for the newest Hobbywing thread, you will get faster responces most of the time.
Paul Rush
HWNA
#820
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
Go here http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/507750-hobbywing-tech-support-1-8-1-10-off-road-103.html
for the newest Hobbywing thread, you will get faster responces most of the time.
Paul Rush
HWNA
for the newest Hobbywing thread, you will get faster responces most of the time.
Paul Rush
HWNA
#821
Anyone know if there is a difference in the color in the V2.1 or V3.1 esc's. I heard blue is the better one. Any truth to that.
#822
Hobbywing Ezrun 150a ESC losing power
Hi, I'm running the Hobbywing 150a ESC with a Toro sensorless 4600kv motor, it runs fine for about 5mins or so then seems to lose power when i apply any Throttle.
It does'nt stop completely just loses about 95% of it's power but if i go off and on with the Throttle or roll to a stop and hit the Throttle again it seems to go back to full power again.
Any advice muchly appreciated. Cheers
It does'nt stop completely just loses about 95% of it's power but if i go off and on with the Throttle or roll to a stop and hit the Throttle again it seems to go back to full power again.
Any advice muchly appreciated. Cheers
#823
Tech Rookie
Ive been having problems with my hobbywing Xerun sct pro/ hobbywing 4000kv sensored motor. Last season everything worked fine with no issues. Last week was my first time out this year, and the system turns on fine , but when i pull the trigger the motor just cogs over and doesnt turn.... eventually after rolling it around it will kick in. Once it starts working , both red/green lights are flashing when input it at neutral. Ive made sure the sensor cable is plugged in, and looked over all my wiring/soldering. Im wondering if anyone has an idea , before I desolder the unit and try and new motor...
thanks!
thanks!
#824
Tech Apprentice
dear all I have a 120a version of the Hobbywing Xerun - I think it is the V2.0 - can this be run in Blinky, and if so how? It's only for club racing, and therefore the other members would be OK if it does not blink, so long as it is not boosted. thanks for the help - BTW I have a control box for it
#825
Ive been having problems with my hobbywing Xerun sct pro/ hobbywing 4000kv sensored motor. Last season everything worked fine with no issues. Last week was my first time out this year, and the system turns on fine , but when i pull the trigger the motor just cogs over and doesnt turn.... eventually after rolling it around it will kick in. Once it starts working , both red/green lights are flashing when input it at neutral. Ive made sure the sensor cable is plugged in, and looked over all my wiring/soldering. Im wondering if anyone has an idea , before I desolder the unit and try and new motor...
thanks!
thanks!