Which 2S lipo’s are you using?
#1
Thread Starter
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jan 2026
Posts: 30
I didn’t see a LIPO choosing thread across the last year, so hopefully was ok to create a new one.
For 1/10 touring car racing, both stock and modified, which Lipo brands and capacity are you using?
I’m racing both 25.5t indoor and 17.5t outdoor, and am thinking of using the LRP HV super stock 6100, curious if anyone has experience with those.
I also believe that I can only charge them on a standard lipo setting (7.6v) but due to HV, I may have over charge to avoid a drop off before the race, and with only going to 7.6cv, an HV lipo should last a little longer.
Other brands I looked at were:
- Team EAM (seems very temperamental around heat)
- Cayote - (was told they would be suitable with low enough UR for 25.5t by online store)
- ORCA
- Nosram
- Gens Ace Redline
Curious what you’re using, why you choose them, how power output is across the entire race length, and if high c rating really makes a difference?
I’m aware for stock racing if I choose to use higher Amp charging/discharging will shorten the lifespan of the cells. I can purchase more, but curious on your thoughts overall.
Cheers
For 1/10 touring car racing, both stock and modified, which Lipo brands and capacity are you using?
I’m racing both 25.5t indoor and 17.5t outdoor, and am thinking of using the LRP HV super stock 6100, curious if anyone has experience with those.
I also believe that I can only charge them on a standard lipo setting (7.6v) but due to HV, I may have over charge to avoid a drop off before the race, and with only going to 7.6cv, an HV lipo should last a little longer.
Other brands I looked at were:
- Team EAM (seems very temperamental around heat)
- Cayote - (was told they would be suitable with low enough UR for 25.5t by online store)
- ORCA
- Nosram
- Gens Ace Redline
Curious what you’re using, why you choose them, how power output is across the entire race length, and if high c rating really makes a difference?
I’m aware for stock racing if I choose to use higher Amp charging/discharging will shorten the lifespan of the cells. I can purchase more, but curious on your thoughts overall.
Cheers
#2
Oh wow, another battery topic from you? Battery choice - R/C Tech Forums
And in the last months there are more topics to be found where current used batteries are discussed..
And in the last months there are more topics to be found where current used batteries are discussed..
#4
I’ve ran EAM for the better of 10yrs and havnt had a battery swell in several years , even left a battery fully charged (6200) from the end of last outdoor season (October ) till this past week and it didn’t puff . Battery was still sitting at 8.38v
ran 5different backs last summer and stored them (stupidly) in my garage (90deg max ) all
summer with no issues .
Been running his new 6400
packs . Can’t complain any about them
ran 5different backs last summer and stored them (stupidly) in my garage (90deg max ) all
summer with no issues .
Been running his new 6400
packs . Can’t complain any about them
#5
I didn’t see a LIPO choosing thread across the last year, so hopefully was ok to create a new one.
For 1/10 touring car racing, both stock and modified, which Lipo brands and capacity are you using?
I’m racing both 25.5t indoor and 17.5t outdoor, and am thinking of using the LRP HV super stock 6100, curious if anyone has experience with those.
I also believe that I can only charge them on a standard lipo setting (7.6v) but due to HV, I may have over charge to avoid a drop off before the race, and with only going to 7.6cv, an HV lipo should last a little longer.
Other brands I looked at were:
- Team EAM (seems very temperamental around heat)
- Cayote - (was told they would be suitable with low enough UR for 25.5t by online store)
- ORCA
- Nosram
- Gens Ace Redline
Curious what you’re using, why you choose them, how power output is across the entire race length, and if high c rating really makes a difference?
I’m aware for stock racing if I choose to use higher Amp charging/discharging will shorten the lifespan of the cells. I can purchase more, but curious on your thoughts overall.
Cheers
For 1/10 touring car racing, both stock and modified, which Lipo brands and capacity are you using?
I’m racing both 25.5t indoor and 17.5t outdoor, and am thinking of using the LRP HV super stock 6100, curious if anyone has experience with those.
I also believe that I can only charge them on a standard lipo setting (7.6v) but due to HV, I may have over charge to avoid a drop off before the race, and with only going to 7.6cv, an HV lipo should last a little longer.
Other brands I looked at were:
- Team EAM (seems very temperamental around heat)
- Cayote - (was told they would be suitable with low enough UR for 25.5t by online store)
- ORCA
- Nosram
- Gens Ace Redline
Curious what you’re using, why you choose them, how power output is across the entire race length, and if high c rating really makes a difference?
I’m aware for stock racing if I choose to use higher Amp charging/discharging will shorten the lifespan of the cells. I can purchase more, but curious on your thoughts overall.
Cheers
for modified racing I believe the 6100mah will be fine for both indoor and outdoor applications. all the brands you listed are top battery brand and you wont go wrong with any
#9
#10
I'm staying away from R1 Wurks, and Exalt batteries, I've had both of them puff on me, unlike the cheap ZEEE batteries from Amazon. I'm currently using SMC's LCG, shorty batteries in stock 21.5 touring and 21.5 2wd. It's to early to tell if they'll puff, but at $40 a pack, vs $100, they're a win.
#13
#14
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,086
From: Kenyon, MN
Stock TC on carpet (25.5 / 21.5): EAM 5200 or the new 5400.
Mod TC on carpet: EAM 4600
Very few people know more about winning stock touring car races than Eric Anderson. The packs consistently have great numbers and hold up very well.
SMC packs are excellent as well.
Getting the pack above 110*F or holding it above 100*F for an excessive amount of time seems to really damage the cells. Find a method that works for you to consistently get the pack to about 100-105 just before your race and you're set. I cycle at 30/30 with a 3 minute delay. If I finish the cycle early, I keep it in a DRC warming sleeve for a few minutes until my race. Ideally you'll have 2 packs per car. 1 to practice with and just kinda keep charging it, and a newer/better one for heats and mains.
Mod TC on carpet: EAM 4600
Very few people know more about winning stock touring car races than Eric Anderson. The packs consistently have great numbers and hold up very well.
SMC packs are excellent as well.
Getting the pack above 110*F or holding it above 100*F for an excessive amount of time seems to really damage the cells. Find a method that works for you to consistently get the pack to about 100-105 just before your race and you're set. I cycle at 30/30 with a 3 minute delay. If I finish the cycle early, I keep it in a DRC warming sleeve for a few minutes until my race. Ideally you'll have 2 packs per car. 1 to practice with and just kinda keep charging it, and a newer/better one for heats and mains.
#15
Thread Starter
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jan 2026
Posts: 30
I used to race 20 years ago and things have changed a lot. Batteries are not the same as they were and are also expensive to replace if they puff on me, so I’m well within my rights to ask.
Yes I have questions, and I’m not going to apologize for that.



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