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Old 01-29-2024 | 08:30 PM
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Default Lipo suggestions

Running a B6.4 in a stock 17.5 class and looking to update my Lipo and would like suggestions for what is the best brand and specs I should be looking at. Been eying the R1 4800 150c and the Fantom 4800 130c. Any other suggestions or input would be appreciated. Just wanting to make sure I get the best performance and quality I can get for the money.
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Old 01-29-2024 | 09:12 PM
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Should note that I’m also looking at the White Carbon which I know has a great reputation. Not sure if I should be focusing on brand, highest output or weight with the lcg lipos.
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Old 01-29-2024 | 11:15 PM
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Both R1 and Fantom are well-known brands with a good reputation in the RC world, so choosing between them may depend on your preference, price, and availability.
Additionally, if you want to consider other options, brands such as Turnigy, Gens Ace, Tattu, Venom, and Traxxas also offer high-quality LiPo batteries that may meet your requirements.
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Old 01-29-2024 | 11:40 PM
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Just specs wise, the R1 would give you better "punch" as it has a higher C rating. A lot would argue the C rating is all bogus, but regardless, if the manufacture puts a higher C rating on their batteries, they are labeling it with higher discharge amps which equals to higher punch.

Last edited by disaster999; 01-30-2024 at 12:46 AM.
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Old 01-30-2024 | 01:08 AM
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And what do you need with a stock class with a low current motor? The lower the current the less noticeable the high C-rating and low internal IR becomes. If you want to profit the higher specs from a battery in such a class then you must be a very good driver. If you are no top world class driver then there is no "best" battery for you.
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Old 01-30-2024 | 03:08 AM
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I was looking for best 1s. I bought from Tony at power push. He tests the packs and puts numbers on them like they use to with round batteries. The one I got has ir the lowest i have ever seen at .7 . Many champions get bats from him. Includes special charging instructions.
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Old 01-30-2024 | 04:05 AM
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EAM batteries are supposedly extremely good - but not exactly cheap. Seems like many used these in the 1/12th worlds. Not sure if it makes much of a difference for mere mortal club racers.
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Last edited by DirkW; 01-30-2024 at 10:19 AM.
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Old 01-30-2024 | 07:31 AM
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Some budget brands of batteries were tested here for folks looking to get the best bang for the buck:
https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads.../#post-1368906

If I was going to race a stock class I would run Trinity White Carbon myself, lots of good tips here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blWFtoiqEaE
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Old 01-30-2024 | 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by disaster999
Just specs wise, the R1 would give you better "punch" as it has a higher C rating. A lot would argue the C rating is all bogus, but regardless, if the manufacture puts a higher C rating on their batteries, they are labeling it with higher discharge amps which equals to higher punch.

We argue the C number is meaningless because there's actual data to back it up. A guy, called MCSGUY has tested hundreds of LiPo packs and found a lot of manufacturers simply abuse the C moniker for marketing purposes.

See here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...st-Comparisons

Going after specs means nothing. Buying just based on C means nothing. It's all smoke and mirrors. The only way to see if a battery really does perform is to see how the cells themselves perform under actual testing.

While these test show aircraft batteries, the same cells are generally used in both air and surface packs.


DirkW, speaking of EAM packs, I spoke with Danny Sullivan of SMC over email, and he seemed pretty confident in the build quality and power output of those packs. Fantom, aswell. If he's recommending those two, it's a good bet they are good. So I'd go with either of those two brands if I were shopping for packs.


Originally Posted by Roelof
And what do you need with a stock class with a low current motor? The lower the current the less noticeable the high C-rating and low internal IR becomes. If you want to profit the higher specs from a battery in such a class then you must be a very good driver. If you are no top world class driver then there is no "best" battery for you.
What you need for a stock class is a pack that's able to hold as high of a voltage as possible. I've noticed, that even on a low current setup, the pack that holds a higher voltage than another has a significant performance advantage in the realm of seconds.

Last edited by Sabin; 01-30-2024 at 07:51 AM.
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Old 01-30-2024 | 10:18 AM
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GenAce Redline
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Old 01-30-2024 | 12:13 PM
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I've been so impressed with my new Tekin 7400 160C 1s that I'm going to pick up one of the 4200 2s to replace my current White Carbon, which for the price I paid, has some seriously lacking IR and voltage under load numbers.
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Old 01-30-2024 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by disaster999
Just specs wise, the R1 would give you better "punch" as it has a higher C rating. A lot would argue the C rating is all bogus, but regardless, if the manufacture puts a higher C rating on their batteries, they are labeling it with higher discharge amps which equals to higher punch.
You can only compare C ratings between batteries from the same brand. Different brands can just slap on a bigger number to make it look better.
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Old 01-30-2024 | 02:30 PM
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I was running Gens Ace Redlines and I picked up one of the newer Protek shorties and that seems to have a bit more punch to it. I bought one of the full size Trinity White Carbon 6000mah packs for onroad and felt dissapointed. I couldn't tell the difference between it and one of the Zeee's packs I have so I never got a shorty.
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Old 01-30-2024 | 02:54 PM
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Oh and does anybody know why SMC doesn't have hardcase car batteries anymore?
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Old 01-30-2024 | 03:08 PM
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Thought I had it narrowed down to 3 now I’ve got it narrowed down to 6 lol. Seriously though thanks for all the input, I really appreciate it. Lots of great information to consider. Maybe I’m overthinking it especially if it won’t make a huge difference in the stock class but I always like to try and do some research and at least try to get the best available product I can anytime I’m buying something even if that means spending more money. And even if it doesn’t add much performance difference I’m sure there is quality and longevity differences too.
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