I know this is what every racer wants out of their car. My question is I run a 17.5 blinky class on carpet oval 2 cell Running a tekin rs pro and 17.5 revtech. Will adding a larger capacitor help? Or are there any other ways to get more power to motor. ?

Have you had the motor timing adjusted, or have you had the motor bearings replaced with ceramic bearings? Without knowing the rules for the class your running, its kinda hard to say alot of speed tricks. Can you run ceramic bearings in hubs? Have you asked any of the fast guys at the track for some tips? Those are all questions I would ask and approach. Ceramics for onraod seems to be a big key around my area. But some classes don't allow them.

We can run pretty much anything we want. Rules are relaxed.. motor is tuned. No ceramic bearings but they are cleaned and oiled weekly.. I'll order a full set for the car and see if it helps tho

Capacitors provide a buffer for rapid changes in voltage (like rapid throttle changes) - more beneficial in off road than oval (I'd image - I don't race oval).

Other than bearings and minimizing weight, you may want to look into reducing battery IR as much as possible - either with a heated lipo sleeve or aggressive charge/discharge regimen (if allowed - track rules vary).

Oil and bearings will only give you about no extra speed. Lol. You need to start checking if everyone is actually in blinky mode. But not like a spy or a jerk. If you notice a few are not blinking the rules might be loose. First rule of fight club??? Drop timing to 40, 4 teeth lower. Add 20 plus boost. ((Just kidding. Follow the rules.))

Ceramic bearings will help a little, Low restance stator will help, high gauss rotor will help, and of course set the gearing and timing appropriately. Capacitor can help in oval slightly depending on the class, cap will charge in turns and give a little more punch coming out of the corner. I'm sure you will a lot more answers as well

Capacitors used to be installed on brushed motors many years ago to smooth out the response, but I don't recall them adding any power boost, there is a capacitor booster that is used on the ESC to boost the voltage up to 3S power temporarily and this feature is explicitly forbidden in stock racing, I've tested it personally and confirmed that it works here, this is definitely cheating:


Note that it takes about 20 seconds to charge back up, but if you used it on the straight every lap you would definitely shave your lap times for sure!

Ceramic bearings on a 17.5T powered motor/car as also capacitors are for most drivers not to notice.

How does your timing and gearing compare to other cars?
--Alex

with respect to stock racing, the only timing allowed is the mechanical timing on the endbell, and the timing is set using a motor analyzer. The value of the timing in degrees is arbitrary, but depending on the brand of motor will require different amp draw readings where Tekin motors like to set around 3.2A and Trinity motors do best around 5.6A, but what's very important is to check the shim spacing so that all 3 phases are within 1°-2° of each other respectively, this ensures the motor will operate at peak efficiency which drastically reduces temps and allow you to potentially gear up if you wish.

The bigger issue with gearing is that no 2 track layouts are guaranteed to require the same gearing... for example a small tight technical layout may require a lower ratio to get faster acceleration but a large high speed layout with little to no tight corners may be faster with a higher ratio to maintain higher speeds provided you have a solid line to carry the speed properly through the corners. I've seen less experienced drivers do better with lower ratios regardless because they tend to blow a corner and lose their momentum which negates the benefit of using a higher ratio in the first place.

There is no simple straightforward answer, it just takes experience and trying different things until you figure out what works best for you.

Agreed that ceramic bearings and lightened driveline parts will also boost performance, I've often spent more on upgrades than the cost for the kit making stock racing very cost prohibitive which is why everyone switched to mod in my area making club racing extremely more affordable