savox servo trim
#1
Thread Starter
Tech Adept
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 125
I got a new Savox servo and cannot get the horn centered it's either left or right. My subtrim is around 70-75 to get it centered.
Any ideas? Or is some servo horn keyed differently? My old servo dropped in close to center.
Also, how about servo brands. The savox seems to work fine, but they are noisy.
Any pros/cons to the following
Reedy
ProTek
Savox
...
...
Any ideas? Or is some servo horn keyed differently? My old servo dropped in close to center.
Also, how about servo brands. The savox seems to work fine, but they are noisy.
Any pros/cons to the following
Reedy
ProTek
Savox
...
...
#3
If it is a servo saver that has a servo tooth count adapter like the XRAY one, you may need to rotate the adapter to get the perfect center. On touring cars with the extra link I don't usually fuss that much about it, but on pan cars where the left and right steering link connect directly to the servo saver I will take my time to find perfect center.
#4
Thread Starter
Tech Adept
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 125
I'm using ASC1370 clamping associated servo horn. I don't have a saver and my tie rods are the same length. The spline won't center, it's ether left a bit or right. My old Reedy servo was very close to center when mounting the horn.
#9
Tech Addict
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 734
From: California
the most it should be off by is about 7 degrees (think about it its 25 teeth typically) 70 sub trim seems high.
Savox is kind of the go-to midrange brand. Noisy but otherwise decent. They also make the Bruno servo brand for xray t4s
protek is good but its amains brand so its kind of like buying from amazon vs. local mom and pop shop.
reedy servos are overpriced massively but good. I mean $200 for a servo...
Team Powers has a really good shorty brushless servo the SRS V2 for touring cars, and 1/10 buggies. Probably the one I would recommend for anything 1/10. I put the older version in my 4wd buggy never stripped the gears. The new one is 0.05 speed 208 oz in and brushless.
MKS are decent, although I don't see many shops getting them.
No matter what, if possible, you should buy from your local hobby shop. They are the ones who run the track and need the sales to support the track (tracks by themselves don't usually make money).
Savox is kind of the go-to midrange brand. Noisy but otherwise decent. They also make the Bruno servo brand for xray t4s
protek is good but its amains brand so its kind of like buying from amazon vs. local mom and pop shop.
reedy servos are overpriced massively but good. I mean $200 for a servo...
Team Powers has a really good shorty brushless servo the SRS V2 for touring cars, and 1/10 buggies. Probably the one I would recommend for anything 1/10. I put the older version in my 4wd buggy never stripped the gears. The new one is 0.05 speed 208 oz in and brushless.
MKS are decent, although I don't see many shops getting them.
No matter what, if possible, you should buy from your local hobby shop. They are the ones who run the track and need the sales to support the track (tracks by themselves don't usually make money).
#10
Thread Starter
Tech Adept
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 125
When I mount it the correct way, its left / right and my subtrim needs to be around 70-80 to center.
That was kind of my question. Does 70-80 subtrim matter much?
#14
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 82
Same here with all my Savox 1257 and 1258 servos and asc1370 or Associated's former gen plastic servo horns marked with a letter.
Happened with my former Reedy servos too.
To my knowledge, the only way is to re-center with the controller's various adjustments when that happens.
With that said, mich like rcbuggy88 mentionned already, in the end the perfect servo horn centering ''issue'' doesn't represent a real functionnal issue after all because on most applications you never go to the rotational capacity limit of the servo, either because of the EPA you set with the controller or because of the physical steering limitation that occur well before the servo's operating range.
Last edited by B4.2mtl; 01-28-2021 at 06:14 PM.
#15
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,410
From: Austin,TX
What car is this going in?
If the link is not adjustable between the servo arm and the bell crank, then you want to swap this out with adjustable links... typically 2 ball ends with a set screw in between... sometimes I have had to trim the plastic off the threads of one ball end to get the servo spline to align right when adjusting the length between the ball ends.
If the link is not adjustable between the servo arm and the bell crank, then you want to swap this out with adjustable links... typically 2 ball ends with a set screw in between... sometimes I have had to trim the plastic off the threads of one ball end to get the servo spline to align right when adjusting the length between the ball ends.



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