No, when calibrating the ESC you still get the same range. If you change to 120/120 w/o re-calibrating you get a smaller window to control the motor and wider windows on full throttle and brake.

As the "What do you use for a FlySky Noble case" question has surfaced again, just thought I'd share what I just did this morning. For quite a few years, I've been using a ProTek case for storing/transporting my Futaba 7PX. Then, about 3-4 years ago, I purchased the original FlySky Noble NB4 (which I recently replaced with the new Noble NB4+, and I'm going to sell (no receivers included) the NB4), along with a Yeah Racing case for storing/transporting. The 'difference' between the two cases is that the Yeah Racing case is a "soft" case, whereas the ProTek case is a "hard" case.

I've thought about selling the Futaba 7PX, but I haven't done that as of yet...partly because it'll be a bit of work in swapping out quite a few Futaba receivers for receivers from the other 3 radios I have (which I'm planning on lowering down to 2, once I decide which of the others I'll get rid of), but mostly because I REALLY don't want to get rid of my ProTek case. So...this morning, I decided to try something...I decided to see if I could swap the foam inserts between the ProTek & YR cases.

First problem - in trying to place the ProTek 7PX insert into the YR case, the length is a little over 0.75" longer than the YR insert, and the width is approx 0.5" wider. Second problem - in placing the YR insert into the ProTek case, height is a little more than 0.5" taller. So, how to solve these 'problems'. Starting with the ProTek 7PX insert, I cut large corners off the bottom & small corners off the top (along the 'width' section). With that done, even though the insert was still slightly larger than the YR case, I was able to get it into the case.

As for the YR insert & ProTek case (the reason anyone reading this post is reading it...lol), the 0.5" extra height didn't turn out to be any noticable problem, as the 'egg-crate' foam inside the lid easily squeezes down. However, the smaller insert length & width dimensions needed to be addressed, as we don't want the insert "moving around" inside the case. In placing the insert into the case, I slid it against the hinged side, and to the left (or towards the 'top', if viewing the radio in an 'upright' position). Next, still viewing the radio from the 'upright' position, I took the two 'small' corner pieces I had cut from the 7PX insert, and placed them in the lower-left & upper-right corners. Finally, I took one of the 'large' corner pieces from the 7PX insert, and placed it into the lower-right corner. Now, not only does the YR NB4 insert sit nicely inside the ProTek case...but, I also have "slots" along the bottom & right (again, viewing the radio from the 'upright' position) sides of the case.

I'm sure, some are probably wondering why I went through so much trouble, instead of just buying a hard case specific to the FlySky Noble radios. Simple. To the best of my knowledge, all of the Noble cases require the steering wheel to be in the "forward" position, thus you have to swivel it to the right/left (depending on whether you're right or left handed) to use the radio, and then you'll have to swivel it back to the forward position to put it back in the case. Constantly doing that will, at some point, cause the swiveling action to loosen (yes, I know, it can be re-tightened...but, is that something you really want to have to be doing every-so-often?). This way, the steering wheel always remains in the exact position I want it in. And, for those lefties our there, you can easily do what I did, but you'll have to first remove the bottom piece of the insert, and then glue it to what was previously the 'top' side.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...faf6d46cc9.jpg

Flysky Noble NB4 plus radio
 

How came after I bind my FGR4B receiver the steering servo won't work And I'm using same server for throttle and steering erasing and rebinding still the same outcome. Throttle works steering won't move if I plug steering servo into throttle port works just fine. I'm lost bad RX

I have one that does the same thing. For that one, I plugged the steering servo into channel three, and mixed channel three with channel one. The rest of my receivers have been working fine.

Been wanting to get into 3d printers. What brand/model is yours? or a good one for a beginner? Thx

https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...BoC0OAQAvD_BwE

Amain sells the foam for the 7px that fits their case :) Not too expensive.

Does anyone know of some place that sells the case that comes with the Pro, separately?

Why no steering signal with the mb4
 

Plus I have four RC cars channel 1 and channel 2 steering works channel 34 and 5. When trying to set up the other two cars several Powers up but there's no signal to turn left or right. Why is that it only works in the first two channels and not the rest?

How are the atennaless receivers for 10th scale applications?

Does anyone know if the Nb4+ will fit in a 10px case like this one? It looks pretty close.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...66b1be8f57.jpg

Beside Classic vs Enhanced edition. The FGr4S have one internal antenna where the FGr4D got two of them.

Got a NB4Pro+ now after being with KO Propo for more than 40 years. It won´t replace my trusted Eurus but will be along. The Eurus might end as a backup some day but for the moment I still lern and search for all the tipe and tricks about the new radio.

Actually got the NB4Pro+ after I had the chance to hold such transmitter in my own hands and have a check for the feel and balance.
For telling the truth, I always liked to check out other radios regarding feel and balance. But I never found an other TX which got me the same feel as my Eurus. No Futaba, no Sanwa. Not the newer KO TX.
The FlySky was the first one which got not the same but a similar balance. At least a good feel and balance. So far I really can´t decide which one of them feels better.
In general I like a balanced transmitter with the weight being more toward the bottom.
That is with the Eurus using the drop down and slightly angled wheel. Also keeping with Eneloop batteries, no Lipo.
The NB4Pro+ with the mobile holder removed, power bank in place. Steering wheel slightly more angled as with the Eurus around 10°.
Spring will tell how it feels at the track.

Currently just 'playing' with the menu and learning how the FlySky works. The Eurus always was just a 'switch on and go'. No updates required.
The FlySky seems to need a bit more work.
Now there are some things I struggle so far to understand or didn´t find what I´m looking for.
- my NB4Pro+ came with 1.0.7 firmware. I have seen something like 1.0.9 mentioned somewhere but can´t find at the FlySky website. Maybe the 1.0.9. is for a different NB4 version, I don´t know.
- is there a way to copy the memory settings to a sd-card or USB-stick?
- one of the menue settings is 'condition'. I have no clue what this means or is used for.

Hey there, quick question.

I have an NB4 which served me well ever since it released, for "mundane" tasks. I recently got into micro crawling, and with that, i'm currently building two of them. One four wheel steer one (which is easy enough even for me to figure out how to setup) - the other one is 6 wheel steer.

Now, admittedly, i haven't thought too much about it yet, but how would one set that up properly? As in, 6ws for starters, and furthermore, i'd like the front and rear axle to have their full travel, while the centre axle only moves at.. i don't know, 50% comparatively (not sure about the number in general, gotta figure that out still).

Is that even possible?

Cheers.

With that 50%, likely you can use DR on that channel to limit the travel. That's the way I would think about it.

This is the case I use. For under $30 you can’t beat it.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...8090d32454.png