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Old 03-12-2018 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by urnotevenwrg2
Drag brake is mostly for making weight transfer forward so your car has steering going into a corner. Knowing exactly how the car is going to act when the trigger hits neutral makes it so you can hit your apexes at exactly the same speed every lap. Corner speed is king, especially in spec classes like 17.5
Yeah, for on road this makes perfect sense. The challenge here when using Brake Force as you described it, would be to make sure that you have enough drag force dialed in to affect the weight transfer of the car. Too little and it's essentially useless but if it's enough you may not even have to tap the brakes going into certain corners. The down side is that you have to get the trigger to neutral, which means that you're off the throttle. Thanks!

Last edited by JC3; 03-12-2018 at 05:31 PM. Reason: I edit every post!
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Old 03-13-2018 | 05:25 AM
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Although I agree with the basis for his thinking as to his personal use of drag brake in sea1swk's post, I do not think this applies to JC3. JC3 Is running on road cars per his picture and description.
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Old 03-13-2018 | 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by SouthFloridaApp
Although I agree with the basis for his thinking as to his personal use of drag brake in sea1swk's post, I do not think this applies to JC3. JC3 Is running on road cars per his picture and description.
Yes, you're right I run road. However, I think the way sea1swk used it was very effective for controlling attitude in jumps. Also, I thought it was a good visual on how weight got transferred to the front. Thanks!
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Old 03-13-2018 | 01:16 PM
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Drag brake is hardly use in SPEC classes as it will kill your corner speed big time. The natural drag of the motor in spec classes is quite enough to slow down the car in corners. I use 75% of initial break setting on the ESC. If it feels like car is on a sudden abrupt stop when you applied the break best thing is to adjust your radio turn down the end point between 80% - 90% whatever you feel more comfortable with. Corner speed with very smooth breaking is the key to go fast in spec classes.
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Old 03-13-2018 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18
Drag brake is hardly use in SPEC classes as it will kill your corner speed big time. The natural drag of the motor in spec classes is quite enough to slow down the car in corners. I use 75% of initial break setting on the ESC. If it feels like car is on a sudden abrupt stop when you applied the break best thing is to adjust your radio turn down the end point between 80% - 90% whatever you feel more comfortable with. Corner speed with very smooth breaking is the key to go fast in spec classes.
Your settings will probably help him best. I'm pretty sure you're both talking about tc. My suggestions were based off of my experience with 2wd buggies. My drag brake settings would probably be better suited for an F1 or 1/12th scale.
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Old 03-13-2018 | 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18
Drag brake is hardly use in SPEC classes as it will kill your corner speed big time. The natural drag of the motor in spec classes is quite enough to slow down the car in corners. I use 75% of initial break setting on the ESC. If it feels like car is on a sudden abrupt stop when you applied the break best thing is to adjust your radio turn down the end point between 80% - 90% whatever you feel more comfortable with. Corner speed with very smooth breaking is the key to go fast in spec classes.
Thanks for the advice. I'll say again that all of the feedback I've received has really helped me understand how to best use this feature.

So, based on what you said: Drag Brake = 0/Initial Brake = 75%/Max Brake = 100%. Correct?

I'll give it a try, along with a couple of other things, at practice tomorrow. Thanks!
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Old 03-16-2018 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by JC3
Thanks for the advice. I'll say again that all of the feedback I've received has really helped me understand how to best use this feature.

So, based on what you said: Drag Brake = 0/Initial Brake = 75%/Max Brake = 100%. Correct?

I'll give it a try, along with a couple of other things, at practice tomorrow. Thanks!
I would set the break it as follows for spec classes like 17.5/USGT/VTA:

Drag break = 0%
Initial Break = 75% (Smoother breaking on sweepers high speed corner so you don't kill the momentum of the car)
Max Break = 40% (Smoother breaking in low speed corners)
Radio End point = 80% - 90% (depend how hard you want the break to feel)

I drive smooth on corner and this how I setup mine. However I mainly drive mod but when I race spec class I hardly use break specially on USGT they are so freaking slow lol.

Note: Some driver is point and shoot type of driving and they tend to use a more hard breaking.
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Old 03-16-2018 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by urnotevenwrg2
Your settings will probably help him best. I'm pretty sure you're both talking about tc. My suggestions were based off of my experience with 2wd buggies. My drag brake settings would probably be better suited for an F1 or 1/12th scale.
Drag break is the enemy of 2wd buggies IMO.. my break setting is pretty close on my TC if I'm running 2wd buggy mod or SPEC but even more lighter break feel on initial breaking. I just use enough break just to slow it down in corner. Mid air if you have a lot of drag break car just won't jump right drag break slow the inertia of the rear wheel and the car will nose down abruptly. If you have a tons drag break under breaking you will loose the rear end guarantee. But if your running 4wd mod buggies drag break is your friend
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Old 03-16-2018 | 03:49 PM
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[QUOTE=Jochim_18;15184819]I would set the break it as follows for spec classes like 17.5/USGT/VTA:

Drag break = 0%
Initial Break = 75% (Smoother breaking on sweepers high speed corner so you don't kill the momentum of the car)
Max Break = 40% (Smoother breaking in low speed corners)
Radio End point = 80% - 90% (depend how hard you want the break to feel)

I drive smooth on corner and this how I setup mine. However I mainly drive mod but when I race spec class I hardly use break specially on USGT they are so freaking slow lol.

Note: Some driver is point and shoot type of driving and they tend to use a more hard breaking.[/QUOTE

Very interesting. I'm not sure that I understand this. How is this different from having Initial 40% and Max 75%? Thanks.
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Old 03-17-2018 | 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Billy Kelly
Braking was my biggest suprise last summer racing. Never realized how much they were used. Running solo for so long I’d learned to just let of throttle and roll through turns.
Wasn’t till after racing ended I got a programming box and started trying different brake settings. I ran with a Trackstar esc, came set at 80 percent. Which was suprising since it felt like I barely had any. Just moving to 85 percent cut 2+ seconds off my laps.
I’ve also got a hobbywing esc. Came set a 75 percent Moved to 100. Big improvement.
Never liked the feel of drag brake. Though I may give it a try in my F1 this summer.
Same here!
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Old 03-17-2018 | 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Kkrazy
Same here!
Same here too! There just doesn't seem to be enough time to work the brakes. I'm just now starting to come to terms with when/how to use them instead of rolling through the turns. For me, the effect is so abrupt that it disrupts the car.

So far, only one of the settings that I've tried seem to be fit into my driving style. Drag Brake. I think that's because I don't have to actually 'use' it but I just 'rely' on it being there automatically when I'm off the gas. Roll into a turn knowing that drag brake is working and that's it.

As I become more comfortable getting around the track I am trying to experiment with other brake settings because I realize that this Drag Brake use probably isn't the best way to go in the long run. It's a challenge.
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Old 03-17-2018 | 07:25 AM
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[QUOTE=JC3;15184833]
Originally Posted by Jochim_18
I would set the break it as follows for spec classes like 17.5/USGT/VTA:

Drag break = 0%
Initial Break = 75% (Smoother breaking on sweepers high speed corner so you don't kill the momentum of the car)
Max Break = 40% (Smoother breaking in low speed corners)
Radio End point = 80% - 90% (depend how hard you want the break to feel)

I drive smooth on corner and this how I setup mine. However I mainly drive mod but when I race spec class I hardly use break specially on USGT they are so freaking slow lol.

Note: Some driver is point and shoot type of driving and they tend to use a more hard breaking.[/QUOTE

Very interesting. I'm not sure that I understand this. How is this different from having Initial 40% and Max 75%? Thanks.
Initial break is when you first applied the break from full throttle. Max break when you applied the break after the initial breaking when car start slowing down this prevent the car from bogging down too much in corners. Put it this way when your driving your real car you step on the break before you turn (Initial Break) then you keep your feet on the break pedal just lightly to slow down the car when you are make that turn (max Break) does that make sense to you?

Rolling the car into the corner without breaking means you have to let off gas really early so you don't over shoot the corners. But if you use break you can stay on gas longer and hit the break late just before the corner and let the car roll into the corner and without drag break car will corner faster.
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Old 03-17-2018 | 08:10 AM
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[QUOTE=Jochim_18;15185229]
Originally Posted by JC3

Initial break is when you first applied the break from full throttle. Max break when you applied the break after the initial breaking when car start slowing down this prevent the car from bogging down too much in corners. Put it this way when your driving your real car you step on the break before you turn (Initial Break) then you keep your feet on the break pedal just lightly to slow down the car when you are make that turn (max Break) does that make sense to you?

Rolling the car into the corner without breaking means you have to let off gas really early so you don't over shoot the corners. But if you use break you can stay on gas longer and hit the break late just before the corner and let the car roll into the corner and without drag break car will corner faster.
Yes, the comparison to the real car really helps. I'm just trying to process all of the suggestions that people are making and be sure I understand before I add them to the list of things that I want to try.

I really like your idea because it means that the initial braking is hard (75%) as you pass the trigger through the neutral zone and then softens (40%) while you are still on the brake. To me that means that I don't have to be quite so worried about the car coming to such an abrupt stop plus I can be turning in as well. Very interesting. Thanks for taking the time to share and clarify!

Last edited by JC3; 03-17-2018 at 08:13 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 03-18-2018 | 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18
Drag break is the enemy of 2wd buggies IMO.. my break setting is pretty close on my TC if I'm running 2wd buggy mod or SPEC but even more lighter break feel on initial breaking. I just use enough break just to slow it down in corner. Mid air if you have a lot of drag break car just won't jump right drag break slow the inertia of the rear wheel and the car will nose down abruptly. If you have a tons drag break under breaking you will loose the rear end guarantee. But if your running 4wd mod buggies drag break is your friend
Dude, I'm talking 5-15% drag brake. Just enough to get the weight to transfer forward.
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Old 03-19-2018 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by urnotevenwrg2
Dude, I'm talking 5-15% drag brake. Just enough to get the weight to transfer forward.
Maybe if traction is good but on loamy dirt loose track definitely no drag break. If you only using 5%-15% heck why even use it I don't think you'll feel much difference without a drag break lol.
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