The Coliseum at HobbyTown USA
12-31-2006, 12:51 PM
#1006
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Originally Posted by RCpurplecow
Me and Juan practiced on Friday cause we couldn't make it Saturday. He broke a bunch of hubs 
I just got the Co27 motor and I really want it to last a long time. What type of motor care should go towards it? How many times should I cut the comm and replace brushes. How many times should I put it on the dyno?
-Kemal
I just got the Co27 motor and I really want it to last a long time. What type of motor care should go towards it? How many times should I cut the comm and replace brushes. How many times should I put it on the dyno? -Kemal
Mike Sr. can answer most of those questions about the motors...
12-31-2006, 01:28 PM
#1007
Originally Posted by RCpurplecow
Me and Juan practiced on Friday cause we couldn't make it Saturday. He broke a bunch of hubs I just got the Co27 motor and I really want it to last a long time. What type of motor care should go towards it? How many times should I cut the comm and replace brushes. How many times should I put it on the dyno?
-Kemal
I just got the Co27 motor and I really want it to last a long time. What type of motor care should go towards it? How many times should I cut the comm and replace brushes. How many times should I put it on the dyno? -Kemal
maintance on your co27 is quite simple, I am assuming you have a dyno or way to break in the motor. Run the motor in for a minute and half @ 3v with a fan on it. Remove springs, pull brushes out of the hoods(pay attention to the way the brushes come out, they are seated one way and must be re installed in the same order). And look to see if they have contoured to the shape of the comm. If they havent put them back in and run in for another 90 sec @ 3v. If you do need to run in once more that should be it. You may dyno it just to see what it will do, but there is really no point. Unless you have a fantom or a dyno that will put a load on the motor the readings are useless. Pick up a comm stick and every 2 or 3 runs pull the brushes out, and use the stick to take the glazing off the brushes. If you have a lathe cutt the comm every 5-7 runs. If the brushes become discolored it is time to change them. Put the new brushes in, break them in on the uncutt comm then cutt the comm. Everytime you rebuild your motor shoot some motor spray to clean out the can, that will too increase the overall life of the motor. Also, when doing cutt's/rebuilds be sure to remember the way the motor was shimmed. Good luck and enjoy it, its a great motor!
12-31-2006, 03:59 PM
#1009
Well, Brian, lets just say Bob had a nice encounter with the wall at the end of the straight.
12-31-2006, 04:35 PM
#1010
Tech Legend
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Originally Posted by mojoman
Brian since you have run a losi at the "C" I was hoping you could tell me what blocks you ran on a tighter layout. I was running four degree and didn't have enough in the corners. My solution that I have yet to try is this...I switched blocks to six degree and pulled the front shocks in one hole to avoid any push at the top end. Am I close or should I start over? (I was considering going three holes up front and working from there 
)
Peace,
C
)Peace,
C
Run a little heavier rear sway bar, run a shorter rear wheel base (makes car rotate faster) or lay the rear shocks in a hole also rotates the rear a little more. Can also go to 1 1/2 degree rear toe in.
In the front maybe stand the front shocks up 1 hole on the tower.
I would try shorter rear wheel base 1st. If that don't help enough wheelbase back to where it was and try moving the rear shocks in a hole on the tower. IF you need more do the shorter wheelbase and rear shocks in a hole together. I would try these 3 setups 1st.
12-31-2006, 04:36 PM
#1011
Tech Legend
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Originally Posted by juanfinesse
Well, Brian, lets just say Bob had a nice encounter with the wall at the end of the straight.
12-31-2006, 04:37 PM
#1012
man u guys are like the offroad dudes. if ur not changin cars -- ur changin classes of cars faster the front pages of the tabloids
R
R
12-31-2006, 05:47 PM
#1013
Originally Posted by wyd
Ouch!!!!!!!!!!! That don't sound good.
12-31-2006, 06:07 PM
#1014
Tech Legend
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Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE
LOL YEA, another mile an hour faster, and he would have went through the new plywood!
Well at least he can't blame it on me. 
12-31-2006, 06:19 PM
#1015
so 1/12s are now out and f103s are in? good grief people
R
R
12-31-2006, 07:00 PM
#1016
Let's just say Bob's new nickname is "Stuff" 'cause boy did he "stuff" it in the wall. You might want to check the wall for soft spots now.
Ult, nobody said a word about getting rid of 1/12th scale, some of us just like the the new car and want to add a class, that and nobody changed cars, they just added another one to their stable.
Ult, nobody said a word about getting rid of 1/12th scale, some of us just like the the new car and want to add a class, that and nobody changed cars, they just added another one to their stable.
12-31-2006, 08:01 PM
#1017
must be nice. hopefully its notta another 100dollar tamiya that u sink another 100-200 in hop-ups only to compete to see who has the best can motor.
R
R
12-31-2006, 08:30 PM
#1018
is the f103 a formula 1 car? Are they fast!?
