
Transfer/Reuse ESC during races
#1

I don't race, but am interested in getting into that part of hobby hence my question.
Could one reuse an ESC from car to car during an evening of racing? Using velcro and quick connects, have 1 ESC for multiple cars/trucks. Heat prevent you from doing something like that? Or is multiple cheaper ESCs a better option than 1 nice, feature loaded one? I already use a single controller to control multiple cars in my quiver.
Side question... anyone use velcro instead of servo tape for ESC/receiver/etc?
Could one reuse an ESC from car to car during an evening of racing? Using velcro and quick connects, have 1 ESC for multiple cars/trucks. Heat prevent you from doing something like that? Or is multiple cheaper ESCs a better option than 1 nice, feature loaded one? I already use a single controller to control multiple cars in my quiver.
Side question... anyone use velcro instead of servo tape for ESC/receiver/etc?
#2
Tech Prophet

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Yes it could be done. I’ve not known or seen anyone do it. But I know there was a series that used a handout motor only. And, from reading, some were using quick connectors.
That’s said it would be a hassle to be constantly switching around. I see a lot struggle just trying to use 1 transponder. And repeatedly forgetting to switch it from car to car
That’s said it would be a hassle to be constantly switching around. I see a lot struggle just trying to use 1 transponder. And repeatedly forgetting to switch it from car to car
#4

it can be done id use 3m dual lock ..not sure its going to be doable as long as your not running a blinky class but that might also work.id use a secondary adhesive on the dual lock
#6

Most local tracks don't really give a flying rip on what ESC you're using. I have never seen they question or check what ESC people are using. Therefore, getting a cheap non-ROAR legal ESC might be a good option. For example, you can get a Hobbywing Quickrun 10BL60 for $40. You can be 2 of them for the same price as ROAR legal one. Just keep the timing, on the ESC, at 0 and nobody will bother you. The second you adjust your timing and get caught doing it, your credibility at the track diminish and they will not let you race that ESC anymore.
As for velcro, Like The RC Guy said, the double locks are really good. anything that is not hook-and-loop and is more like the interlocking type will work great. Problem is, they are a pain to get loose.
As for velcro, Like The RC Guy said, the double locks are really good. anything that is not hook-and-loop and is more like the interlocking type will work great. Problem is, they are a pain to get loose.
#7

Could you share 1 esc between multiple cars at a race event? Yes! Would I recommend it? No.
You have already mentioned quick connects, which I assume you mean between the ESC and the motor. This probably wouldn't be an issue if you are racing all brushed motors or sensor-less brushless motors. However keep in mind that many organized racing classes require the use of sensored brushless motors (especially in on-road racing classes). If you are using sensored motors, you would also have to be constantly be connecting/disconnecting the sensor wire. Due to the design/size of the senor wires and connectors, they can be easily damaged if they aren't installed properly or handled with too much force.
Were you planning to use the same receiver or any other electronics? If you are only moving the ESC, you will need to plug/unplug the ESC signal wire in the receiver every time you move the ESC. These wires/connections can also be easily damaged if they are handled excessively.
Another thing that has been mentioned is a transponder. Many, but not all trracks/organized racing provide loaner transponders. If the track you plan to race at does, this won't be an issue. However if you are racing on a budget, you many need to buy a transponder and move it between each different class of vehicle. This again can damage the signal connector on the transponder. If you do plan on doing this, please purchase a servo wire extension cable that you plug into the receiver so you don't have to constantly plug/unplug the transponder wire.
The biggest issue in moving electronics between vehicles is time. At most organized racing, the racers are not only responsible for running their heats but they are usually required to turn marshal the race before or after the race they just competed in. If you are planning on running multiple classes, this may limit the time you have available to swap the ESC between heats. This can be especially difficult if you are running classes that are back-to-back. Also while many tracks do have some limited time between each heat, many tracks run a tight schedule and won't wait for people to work on their cars. This may not be an issue where you plan to race. However just ask anyone who raced multiple classes right now how hectic it can be to keep up with maintaining those vehicles during a race event. I haven't even brought up the time you may lose having to fix a broken cars.
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Again since you didn't mention what classes you were planning on racing, we can't help you with strategies on how to best race multiple classes using 1 esc. If you can provide additional information, it might be very easy for you to race with a 1 esc limitation. We also may be able to suggest budget electronics that may work well in the classes you plan to race.
At this time my best advice is to visit the track during a typical race meeting. Get an idea how the event/classes are ran and how the event flow. You may determine that is may be best to only focus on 1 class or it may be easy to run multiple classes.
You have already mentioned quick connects, which I assume you mean between the ESC and the motor. This probably wouldn't be an issue if you are racing all brushed motors or sensor-less brushless motors. However keep in mind that many organized racing classes require the use of sensored brushless motors (especially in on-road racing classes). If you are using sensored motors, you would also have to be constantly be connecting/disconnecting the sensor wire. Due to the design/size of the senor wires and connectors, they can be easily damaged if they aren't installed properly or handled with too much force.
Were you planning to use the same receiver or any other electronics? If you are only moving the ESC, you will need to plug/unplug the ESC signal wire in the receiver every time you move the ESC. These wires/connections can also be easily damaged if they are handled excessively.
Another thing that has been mentioned is a transponder. Many, but not all trracks/organized racing provide loaner transponders. If the track you plan to race at does, this won't be an issue. However if you are racing on a budget, you many need to buy a transponder and move it between each different class of vehicle. This again can damage the signal connector on the transponder. If you do plan on doing this, please purchase a servo wire extension cable that you plug into the receiver so you don't have to constantly plug/unplug the transponder wire.
The biggest issue in moving electronics between vehicles is time. At most organized racing, the racers are not only responsible for running their heats but they are usually required to turn marshal the race before or after the race they just competed in. If you are planning on running multiple classes, this may limit the time you have available to swap the ESC between heats. This can be especially difficult if you are running classes that are back-to-back. Also while many tracks do have some limited time between each heat, many tracks run a tight schedule and won't wait for people to work on their cars. This may not be an issue where you plan to race. However just ask anyone who raced multiple classes right now how hectic it can be to keep up with maintaining those vehicles during a race event. I haven't even brought up the time you may lose having to fix a broken cars.
----------
Again since you didn't mention what classes you were planning on racing, we can't help you with strategies on how to best race multiple classes using 1 esc. If you can provide additional information, it might be very easy for you to race with a 1 esc limitation. We also may be able to suggest budget electronics that may work well in the classes you plan to race.
At this time my best advice is to visit the track during a typical race meeting. Get an idea how the event/classes are ran and how the event flow. You may determine that is may be best to only focus on 1 class or it may be easy to run multiple classes.
#8

Thanks for the feedback. It was an idea. Sounds like it wasn't a fully thought out, smart idea
lol These are off road races, likely one of the buggy classes and a stadium truck class. Likely a father/son combo of some sort. But he may have to wait a little as we went to track this past Sunday for practice and let's just say it didn't turn out well for him. LOL I'll pick up a couple of the HW quick runs and slap them in the vehicles. Been trying to get up to the track on race days but life sucking time right now.

#9

Many tracks use LiveRC! or similar timing and scoring to run their races. During live racing or practicing, if the track is broadcasting live video you can watch from home. You don't always have to get to the track in person.
Check out the following link...
https://www.liverc.com/
Check out the following link...
https://www.liverc.com/
Last edited by IndyRC_Racer; 04-11-2022 at 03:45 PM.
#10

going from device to device you will always get a different voltage even certified meters.
#11

I tried that when I first got into the hobby and I do not recommend it
#12
Tech Apprentice

Most local tracks don't really give a flying rip on what ESC you're using. I have never seen they question or check what ESC people are using. Therefore, getting a cheap non-ROAR legal ESC might be a good option. For example, you can get a Hobbywing Quickrun 10BL60 for $40. You can be 2 of them for the same price as ROAR legal one. Just keep the timing, on the ESC, at 0 and nobody will bother you. The second you adjust your timing and get caught doing it, your credibility at the track diminish and they will not let you race that ESC anymore.
As for velcro, Like The RC Guy said, the double locks are really good. anything that is not hook-and-loop and is more like the interlocking type will work great. Problem is, they are a pain to get loose.
As for velcro, Like The RC Guy said, the double locks are really good. anything that is not hook-and-loop and is more like the interlocking type will work great. Problem is, they are a pain to get loose.
The 10bl60 isn't sensored(anymore) the 10bl120 is.
#13