I run an 1/8 Inferno 7.5 platform, mainly for bashing but want to enter the racing scene. There are tons of conflicting suggestions on diff oils and would really like to narrow the field down even a little. Before we start, we can eliminate all talk about the importance of tuning to ones personal preference and specific characteristics of each vehicles build components - I GET IT! I race superbike, I am no stranger to having to fine-tune to ones personal style and equipment. I just want a smart starting point for both my nearly identical EV and Nitro models.

I run front 5000, center 7000, rear 3000. This was suggested to me by Kyosho tech support and I also found some evidence from possible racers in old posts. However...I find this to be a complete contradiction from more modern manuals like the NEO (that now finally have printed suggestions) of much much thicker oils all around. Furthermore, some have suggested in this site that this is a beginner tune to make it easier to drive, which actually contradicts the newer manuals which I am assuming are not printed for racers.

The reason I am struggling to find a diff fluid solution (individual equipment setup enters the picture) is because I am finding my EV buggy is wearing the front-end drivetrain twice as fast as my nitro buggy. In addition, the EV seems to turn much better on any terrain, I am thinking it could be related to the fast wear on the front - perhaps because it's pulling the front-end more rather than pushing. But why would the EV handle differently than an otherwise identically setup Nitro? - well I guess I just introduced 2 different questions rather than one I suppose.

To setup a car is something personal, depending on the setup from others is giving a high chance it will not suit you. Beside that, the diff setup is also depending the rest of the setup....

Learn to feel your car and what is needed to get it in the window you like. Usefull is the "Hudy offroad setup book" in which all setup options are discribed an written what it does when you make it more or less. For now the most simple thing you dan do is swap the front and rear diff and feel if that suits you better.

One reason the front of a EV would wear faster is mainly due to the electric motors’ initial magnetic moment which acts like a hammer. Most 4wd 1/8 buggies will diff out toward the front and biasing the front (usually thinner=More bias) more on a thick center over the rear makes the car act and feel more FWD and less RWD. Changing just the center will effect both on how the power is delivered front or rear. The angle of the center dog bones play a huge factor on how the electric motor can deliver its power as electric motors really act like a gyro more so than a flywheel thou a flywheel spins down at a nice rate.

If you want your car to power slide or so to speak drift more then a thinner rear over the front is needed on a thicker center. Like 3r,15c,10f

5-7-3 is a good "base" setup, but as already mentioned, there are too many variables to give a recommended setup for you without knowing what your track conditions are, plus it's not clear what you need the car to do after first starting with the base setup, use the following guide to make any necessary changes from base setup:




As for me, I run on medium to low grip wet-smooth fast flowing track so I run 20-20-5 with my current setup for reference... I'll drop to 10-7-3 for bumpy/dry/loose conditions, and anything in between my medium grip setup depending on conditions, weather, etc...

Lol these are alway the best threads, guy asking for help while telling us he gets it cause he use to race street bikes, trying to bring a 20 year old buggy to the race track that he can’t tell us anything about and uses the word contradictory to many times to keep count.

I wouldn’t do it, just keep bashing. Racing you need equipment and knowledge. Knowledge of what kind of equipment you will need extras of (tires servos engines parts clutches batteries starter box starter box batteries starter box parts a good radio nitro% glow igniters and spare glow plugs, chargers, chargers for your chargers wings) and if you don’t have these things your walking into problems with a car no one has scene in 10 years so u won’t have parts support. Most people wouldn’t even use there knowledge on a car that old because most has changed. Those shocks you would need to replace, modern tracks would destroy them with how much we jump. Again parts you need on hand or your days done. What could you replace them with? Most shocks today would be much longer which means you can’t directly replace them as it wouldn’t fit without being completely wrong. ..... I’ll stop but just trying to be realistic, the race track is no place for a mp7.5.

Thanks, I shall try to find a copy of the book and check it out.

Helpful, thanks guys.

Looser - because you came out of your mother a pro-RC racer right? Thanks for nothing, I hope when you are in need that your friends and family treat you with insults. I'm trying, that's more than can be said for you.

First of all the MP7.5 is based on an older competition car and is a decent start for hitting tracks and clubracing.

It is a common that bashers (not hitting the tracks) can ask all kind of questions of how to adjust caster, camber, toe, the need of sway bars other shocks etc. even not knowing what is does and if they need it. That is why books like those from Hudy give a lot of information, not of only what it does but what will change if you adjust it. Not only helpfull for the racers but also for the bashers.

Agreed, I am actually both a licensed motorcycle and automotive mechanic plus have helped in a stock car team and race myself. I am no stranger to alignment angles for sure, although honestly would never pretend to pick up on the difference they make in RC cars - I'm simply just not good enough to notice yet and I cannot do consistent enough lap times to see it. Those are easy to change and experiment with on-site, I want a baseline for the oils because it's not something I would yet mess with as often as I should - and I want to go completely over both cars over the winter.

Finally got past the rush of Christmas and now ready for RC thoughts again. Got the Hudy book, looking forwards to reading it. However after a year of exhaustively looking for parts for the 7.5 platform (and getting frauded out of $200 from a guy on this site claiming to have a bin of stuff) I am officially giving up on it. I waited most of the summer for a front bumper, not doing this anymore. Kyosho is not supporting the platform well anymore even though the Neo is almost the same, and ebay parts is too stressful. Some of you may have noticed my posting on the MP10 threads, asking for advice between 2 used buggies. I could choose between a full MP9 tki3/4 mix, with enough spare parts to literally make 2 buggies plus some. However these are really beat up bad, though I'm sure most components are still usable.

Or, an almost new MP10 with a small batch of spares. The asking prices are similar, although in the long run the MP10 will end up costing much more due to the lack of spares. There is a lot of talk about updated parts for the MP10 such as taller shock towers and longer shocks, I would assume this is the original buggy kit as he had raced it a bunch of times in 2020 and I don't see a second set of shock towers in the spares (although there are a couple shocks pictured).

Based on some comments on this thread, seems some would suggest sticking with the 10 as it is the newest platform and likely most capable moving forward. Problem is Kanai stated the progression of buggies moves more and more towards high-grip surfaces of modern tracks. Here in these parts there are hardly any tracks, but are all low grip to my knowledge. My bashing is primarily low grip as well, which would sort of lead one to believe the older mp9 may be more competitive?

I am just checking to make sure the right pants hat are on here, if not, a curtain will work..
Not sorry, but I do not appreciate this comment and feel like it ‘needs’ to be deleted.

Everyone works hard to get where they want to be doesn’t mean to spill the entire caldron of beans when a person asks.