3Likes1/10th pan car
02-24-2010, 12:35 AM
My chart does all you require, and you only need to enter 3 numbers (even 12th racers use it).
I now have it so you can do tyres sizes to .1 of a mm (58.3) for a spot on ratio.
Also have one done for those Touring racers, enter just 4 numbers for them.
02-24-2010, 12:28 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Thanks, but I don't need to.
My chart does all you require, and you only need to enter 3 numbers (even 12th racers use it).
I now have it so you can do tyres sizes to .1 of a mm (58.3) for a spot on ratio.
Also have one done for those Touring racers, enter just 4 numbers for them.
My chart does all you require, and you only need to enter 3 numbers (even 12th racers use it).
I now have it so you can do tyres sizes to .1 of a mm (58.3) for a spot on ratio.
Also have one done for those Touring racers, enter just 4 numbers for them.
...As I don't have a laptop to take to the track, I guess I'll have to srttle for the roll out chart. TJ
02-24-2010, 06:24 PM
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (16)
Hi- I have been reading this thread with great interest as I have just acquired myself a second hand Corally C10.
I am in the process of stripping the car down and cleaning it up and I have noticed that all of the pivot balls (balls with 2-piece plastic covers and o-ring) are all quite tight and are causing binding in the front suspension and the rear pod. Is there meant to be this level of "tightness" or are the pivot balls suppose to be free (as I am used to in touring cars etc). Can anyone lend any tricks to help free up the action of the pivot?
Also, I am concerned about the stifness of the rear suspension- while the side roll is free (with the floating rear pod), the front to back stifness is quite high, certainly higher than I am used to with 12th scale t-bar cars. Does anyone have any tricks on how to soften the rear suspension of the cars ?? (FYI I am running the "leafspring" with the outtermost holes to the main chassis and the innermost to the motor pod)
Thanks for the advice!
I am in the process of stripping the car down and cleaning it up and I have noticed that all of the pivot balls (balls with 2-piece plastic covers and o-ring) are all quite tight and are causing binding in the front suspension and the rear pod. Is there meant to be this level of "tightness" or are the pivot balls suppose to be free (as I am used to in touring cars etc). Can anyone lend any tricks to help free up the action of the pivot?
Also, I am concerned about the stifness of the rear suspension- while the side roll is free (with the floating rear pod), the front to back stifness is quite high, certainly higher than I am used to with 12th scale t-bar cars. Does anyone have any tricks on how to soften the rear suspension of the cars ?? (FYI I am running the "leafspring" with the outtermost holes to the main chassis and the innermost to the motor pod)
Thanks for the advice!
02-24-2010, 09:46 PM
The older C10x and X10 cars were designed to be very stiff front to back. Dont worry about that.
To free up the pivot balls use freash O-ring if they have dried up a bit and use a bit of grease on the balls.
To free up the pivot balls use freash O-ring if they have dried up a bit and use a bit of grease on the balls.
02-25-2010, 01:06 PM
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (16)
Thanks for the input. I polished up the pivot balls and that has seemed to help free up the movement of the suspension. Has anyone tried using the tweak adjuster? Under what sort of conditions (eg high/low grip) would the adjuster be most useful?
02-25-2010, 06:18 PM
Tech Master
You could also try differant combo's of pivot balls and holders. Sometimes, some just seem to fit better than at other times. I also found some slightly smaller o-rings that fit over the plastic pieces, holds the whole thing snug but leaves it free to move. Works well on my 10VN. Give it a go mate.
Oh, and Hi 'pro ten holland'! What's happening with your series? Ran the pro10 around our outdoor track and it was so dusty, it looked like a nitro car running around! Looking forward to summer though, will be great fun.
Oh, and Hi 'pro ten holland'! What's happening with your series? Ran the pro10 around our outdoor track and it was so dusty, it looked like a nitro car running around! Looking forward to summer though, will be great fun.
02-25-2010, 09:18 PM
The RC Le-Mans series is alive and kicking. We are again planning on having 6 races this year. 5 races have been confirmed. We are just wauting for confirmation of our final race and we are good to go.
We'll be running stock (10.5) and mod this year.
We'll be running stock (10.5) and mod this year.
03-03-2010, 01:33 PM
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (16)
So I have managed to free up all of the pivot balls on the C10 and everything seems to be nice and free. I am now trying to balance up the car. What are the relative merits of balancing the pod? I have read a few posts which suggest that this is beneficial to left-right handling and to help prevent diffing out on one side. However, I have had to add a massive 40g to the left side of the pod. Note also that I have had to tape these weights onto a piece of scrap lexan and screw it onto the left rear of the pod. Given the significant increase in pod weight, is it really worth it? (I am running a 10T brushed motor)....
03-04-2010, 01:05 PM
I have never found many difference from balancing my rear pod. Balancing the main chassis does make big difference though.
03-10-2010, 07:41 PM
?
03-10-2010, 08:06 PM
03-10-2010, 09:24 PM
I have balanced my rear pod with lead weights. I had to place 30 gramms on roght side for a good balance. I ran the car like that for weeks. At one point I decided to see without the weight. No difference whatsoever.
I guess this is because we use a solid rear axle that automatically distributes the weight evenly.
If on the other hand you don't balance your main chassis, you will have a tweaked car. It will pull to one side under acceleration.
I guess this is because we use a solid rear axle that automatically distributes the weight evenly.
If on the other hand you don't balance your main chassis, you will have a tweaked car. It will pull to one side under acceleration.
03-10-2010, 10:37 PM
03-13-2010, 07:37 PM
Tech Master
Hi mate, the outdoor season starts in 3 weeks time and I am getting my Corally Pro 10 ready. I have modified the pod so that a brushless motor fits in it but what gearing would you suggest for a 10.5 using a Tekin RS Pro ESC? I have also modified the front beam, well, used lower pivot balls to get some ride height back. I will be running NiMh's for a few runs but will eventually go to LiPo's. Either way, looking forward to running the car on the outdoor track! Cheers.
03-14-2010, 01:35 AM
It all depends on your software settings.
With very moderate timing you can go as high as 53mm, with a lot of timing as low as 35mm.
With very moderate timing you can go as high as 53mm, with a lot of timing as low as 35mm.