wingman2

Hi mate, I think the answer would be, yes and no! Some parts like the front end, for example will use the same spacing as the dynamic front end, so that would fit. The newer front end from the latest cars will not though, as the spacing is differant (I think there are adaptors out there to make it fit though). The rear diff/axle could be replaced easily if you break it but things like the chassis brace, upper/lower pod plates, etc, will obviously be from that model only. Just to let you know, that I recently bought a brand new Corally car from the factory, that was released in 1994, and it runs brilliantly! I think you'll find that your AE car will do as well and you'll ditch that 'shoe box on wheels' in favour of the proper race car!! If you take a look on the Niftech website, there's plenty of goodies on there for you and your car. Hope that helps a little, cheers!

bencason

iTrader: (3)

Wingman2, thanks for the pointer to Niftech. Certainly some useful bits there. I'll keep an eye on Ebay and the Sale forum here for parts & parts cars.

I admit to looking at the TC cars and thinking they are trying too hard with the 4wd and all. I have enough to get my head around with the move from Nicads/NiMh to LiPos and brushed to brushless motors without the complexity of 4wd and a million+1 different suspensions settings getting in the way.

Since the only local racing is TC and SC truck, I took the more appealing [to me] path and chose a TC Spec class for "Seniors" for a gentle re-entry to the hobby. Sadly, with summer starting, everyone here seems to be outside playing in the dirt. I may not get to do any racing until Fall since I am not interested in off-road at all and don't feel like traveling for hours to find a place to race. The LHS has a nice indoor asphalt track so I can at least get lots of practice.

Pro ten Holland

iTrader: (1)

Welcome back then!
For the RC10L you will be able to find most parts. The Dynamic strut front end is still used, the rear axle parts should also be no problem as they are still used.
The only difficult parts to find will be the chassis plates and T-bar.
If you break one of those you will have to look on Ebay.

Grenade10

iTrader: (40)

Also if you need Doug Powel (PRC) still cuts chassis and t-bars for the car, as we have a pretty good group running 235 cars here in Colorado.

simplechamp

iTrader: (73)

I am looking for the manual for a Trinity Switchblade SS 1/10 pan car. If anyone can point me in the right direction please send me a PM, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

bencason

iTrader: (3)

Hmmm, I must have an older version of the RC10L & 12L because both cars have the "steering block on pin with spring" type of front end. Is there any chance the newer front end will use the same bolt holes and work on an older car?

I probably have an extra T-plate for each that were spares. That ought to hold me for a while.

Searching through the shelves in the room I used for my RC stuff turned up a second, graphite-chassis, RC10L that seems to be suitable for both oval and road-racing. It has 4 batt. slots on the right side and 6 on the left. I had forgotten about it completely. After finding all this pan car gear, I just need to check into local tracks to see what racing I can find without traveling for hours. I think the LHS track has some 1/12 scale racing occasionally and run oval once a month or so. It seems I may have more choices than I thought. Hopefully I can use some of the old electronics for a while until I can afford upgrades. I don't expect to be too competitive at first. I just want to have fun and see how far I can rebuild my skills. I do know turn marshalling will be a challenge for my old knees .

Grenade10

iTrader: (40)

Yes, the bolt pattern of the "Old School" or "Dynamic Front End" and most of the aftermark stuff all are the same. Exception for the new Associted R5 as they went to a metric spacing.

bencason

iTrader: (3)

Excellent news! I should work on getting my pan cars back on the road sooner than I planned.

On a different note, it seems like most of the bodies these days are either 190mm or 200mm for use on a TC. One of my RC10Ls seems to be narrower than the expected 235mm. Since it didn't have wheels/axle, I measured the chassis and it was about the same as the front wheel width, 210mm.

Can the 200mm bodies be used?
or do I have to stick to the 235mm bodies?

Grenade10

iTrader: (40)

Normally the front track is narrower than the rear, but you don't want the tires outside the body. Too easy to rip off the tire/arm/chassis.

Yes there was a Supper Speedway car that was the beginings of the current oval cars.

bencason

iTrader: (3)

I have been looking at bodies and saw the '68 Camaro on HPI that is aimed at VTA racing. I like that body a lot but it is too narrow, at 200mm, for my 10L, sigh. I do have a 20 year old Mercedes Benz GTP type body that will go on a 10L but I guess I will have to look at the 235mm bodies to see what my choices are for the other 10L. I was hoping for something different. Maybe I'll use either the Corvette or Cobra body I have on the shelf. Hmmm, I wonder if Lexan ages well? I guess I'll find out.

Thanks all for the info and encouragement. I am looking forward to getting this antique cars back on the track. They are highly appropriate for an almost antique driver

V12

iTrader: (1)

For 235mm cars you should look for the Protoform Peugeot 905 body what should be available at Stormer. I have no clue if you can get any other type of GTP body in the USA but Camaro or anything like this doesnīt have the downforce needed for the 2WD cars.
If one of your cars is 200mm wide then I would go with the Protoform Corvette or Mulsanne. These donīt have the downforce of a GTP but at least a good balance as they are developed especially for the world gt cars.
For all of these bodies and pancar parts I think Stormer is the best shop.

Grenade10

iTrader: (40)

If kept out of direct sunlight, it seems to. I have many 235 bodies from the 80's through today and I'll dust off something different every once in a while. As V12 said, Stormer is probably the best place for 235 car parts and bodies. I may be pulling an updated body that I have raced in the past and really like, but probably will not get it done this summer.

Post some pictures when you get it up and running.

Lee_123

Hey Ben
I'm up in Philly and have a rc10L, 13.5 brushless 1s LiPo and run once a month at Blue Diamond.

McAllister racing still makes wide bodies as does WindTunnel, HPI has the P905B.

Over on RC10talk.com there's a guy who bought up a bunch of molds and has quite a selection of bodies available. How about a Greenwood Corvette in either 1/10th or 1/12th scale? He goes by Mr. Lexan and I'm pretty sure that he listed on E-bay too. I understand the best way to get in touch with him is e-mail.

Lee B.

bencason

iTrader: (3)

Wow! great info, thanks!

drbelleville

iTrader: (13)

Hpi doesn't have the 905B you must be thinking of Protoform. Hpi used to have the NPT' 92 which only fit their Road Star 10GW (which was actually 1/11 scale).