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Old 01-02-2006, 09:03 AM   #16
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I got the OS as well!!

OS for club and learn how to drive the 1/8th then Nova for national races in case i need more power.

I will get plenty of track time with the OS before I install the Nova
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Old 01-02-2006, 09:29 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M7H
By the time he needs a more powerfull engine, his old engine is worn out, so no need to sell it then anymore...
Why not try to buy powerful engine and tune it in the rich side so the engine run very slow and by the time he need power then lean the engine
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Old 01-02-2006, 10:36 AM   #18
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hi Ziggy12345,

It is me Philip, we met at aldershot last year 1/10th national......Welcome abroad to the world of 1/8th....From your driving skill i would suggust a megapicco, they are very good value for money and power ( i used one but never actually own it !!!!).....i have a jp R 01., it is very powerful, but the crankshaft snapped near the top end.....the RB are good engine if you can tune them, i am still running a Rody RB after a year with the same p/s and con rod ( only changed the bearings) ...it is excellent for flowing track,and even guys with jp have problem keeping up at the straight...with good driving skills and setup....POWER is wot u need in 1/8th !!!

C U
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Old 01-02-2006, 10:37 AM   #19
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Hi Ziggy12345,

Forgot to mention that the faster these car go the more stable they are !!!!!
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Old 01-02-2006, 11:50 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suntok2
Why not try to buy powerful engine and tune it in the rich side so the engine run very slow and by the time he need power then lean the engine
Easy for many reasons:

1. A fat carburation limits power, but skyrockets the fuel consuption. Great, he doesn't has high output, but a tank could last barely 4 minutes or 4:30 (or... less). I don't know if you have seen that the main problem is facing people now is not critical carburations, or other problems (engines have evolved a lot in those terms), the main problem is the burning rate of the fuel, and the tank remains the same... 125cc.
2. A more powerful car and a newbie overhelmed by the output of those powerful engines could chicken and not open full throttle on the backstraights, so the mixture starts to self lean due to partial throttle, so the car leans and continues accelerating (side effect) alas, the leaner the mixture, the hotter the engine gets, so saw some pretty meltdowns of really expensive engines by 'part-throttle chickening at the backstraights'.
3. A more powerful, because their higher output, their life expectancy is lesser, so doesn't matter if you drove it in 'balls out' mode or 'chicken' mode, he has a life expectancy.
4. Because when that driver wants a more powerful engine, probably the market made some engines cheaper and he will save some bucks on their brand new engine.

Made the test. A friend got a MRX-3 and the shop sold it a JP engine. That engine was a beast and he was unable of driving and pulling the trigger to the max, so engine suffered. One day, exchanged their 'black beast' for one of mine 'old and trusty' RX21 engines and he improved a lot, because the engine had a lower power output and was easier to drive, so he was using more throttle more time. He improved on fuel time and lap time, so more power and fatter carburation at the same time on a newbie is a big NO-NO.
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Old 01-02-2006, 12:06 PM   #21
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Is the Mega .21 Power Pak worth it? How is the durability?
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Old 01-02-2006, 12:52 PM   #22
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ziggy, you will like the OS. It is very easy to tune, has excellent power.... and the parts are cheap compared to the RB's, JP's and Novarossi's. Replacement rods are about $33.00, not $70 like the REX, Rossi RB. Piston/Sleeve is $110, not $230. +++.

The money saved will allow you to purchase more tires, which is probably the most expensive part of racing 1/8. Your O.S. motor will last a few years if you take care of it. Tires last a few runs (depending in the surface) and cost $35 to $50 per set.

At some point later, if you are handy with a dremel you can make small mods that will give excellent results.
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Old 01-02-2006, 08:10 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R
Easy for many reasons:

1. A fat carburation limits power, but skyrockets the fuel consuption. Great, he doesn't has high output, but a tank could last barely 4 minutes or 4:30 (or... less). I don't know if you have seen that the main problem is facing people now is not critical carburations, or other problems (engines have evolved a lot in those terms), the main problem is the burning rate of the fuel, and the tank remains the same... 125cc.
2. A more powerful car and a newbie overhelmed by the output of those powerful engines could chicken and not open full throttle on the backstraights, so the mixture starts to self lean due to partial throttle, so the car leans and continues accelerating (side effect) alas, the leaner the mixture, the hotter the engine gets, so saw some pretty meltdowns of really expensive engines by 'part-throttle chickening at the backstraights'.
3. A more powerful, because their higher output, their life expectancy is lesser, so doesn't matter if you drove it in 'balls out' mode or 'chicken' mode, he has a life expectancy.
4. Because when that driver wants a more powerful engine, probably the market made some engines cheaper and he will save some bucks on their brand new engine.

Made the test. A friend got a MRX-3 and the shop sold it a JP engine. That engine was a beast and he was unable of driving and pulling the trigger to the max, so engine suffered. One day, exchanged their 'black beast' for one of mine 'old and trusty' RX21 engines and he improved a lot, because the engine had a lower power output and was easier to drive, so he was using more throttle more time. He improved on fuel time and lap time, so more power and fatter carburation at the same time on a newbie is a big NO-NO.
Well to make the story short we have different kind of teaching method. So far our method works with our new players and now they are cosinder good driver. If you set up the car properly no matter what engine you put it will run the same. I'm a hobbyshop owner here and so far your engine price are really expensive.
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Old 01-03-2006, 12:00 AM   #24
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suntok, why do you mention cost (expense) when you dont even list prices on your site?

When you post in your message that the prices in this thread are "really expensive", what exactly are you commenting on? Do you have an O.S. VZ-R for sale less than $250.00?
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Old 01-03-2006, 01:45 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suntok2
Well to make the story short we have different kind of teaching method. So far our method works with our new players and now they are cosinder good driver. If you set up the car properly no matter what engine you put it will run the same. I'm a hobbyshop owner here and so far your engine price are really expensive.
I have always thought this, a good setup car is worth more than a fast engine.

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Old 01-04-2006, 12:19 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by graphiteman
suntok, why do you mention cost (expense) when you dont even list prices on your site?

Soon I will have e shop on my site.

When you post in your message that the prices in this thread are "really expensive", what exactly are you commenting on? Do you have an O.S. VZ-R for sale less than $250.00?
I only promote Novarossi engine. Sample price Plus 21-3C 420$
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Old 01-04-2006, 12:23 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ziggy12345
I have always thought this, a good setup car is worth more than a fast engine.

Cheers
Yes I agree but if you have both power and set up it is very easy to win races.
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Old 01-04-2006, 01:08 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suntok2
Yes I agree but if you have both power and set up it is very easy to win races.
so we don't need any driving skills anymore?
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Old 01-04-2006, 05:31 AM   #29
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Quote:
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so we don't need any driving skills anymore?
yes we need
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Old 01-06-2006, 11:40 AM   #30
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Just received the 35 PLUS 21 engine!! Now all I need is a dry day to test it out

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