RB Engine Thread
#301
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
I was inquiring about the Xenon and R version, but was steered towards the C6. Is the C6 overall a better motor? I want something powerful enough stock to be useful at 301 raceway's track. Floyd isn't a concern though as everything else I competed against with my Top had a bit more bottom and top end. I was thinking of the Ninja also, but for the price would the Xenon be better?
#302
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
I was inquiring about the Xenon and R version, but was steered towards the C6. Is the C6 overall a better motor? I want something powerful enough stock to be useful at 301 raceway's track. Floyd isn't a concern though as everything else I competed against with my Top had a bit more bottom and top end. I was thinking of the Ninja also, but for the price would the Xenon be better?
http://www.phpbbserver.com/fanaticre...anaticremotera
#303
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
well from what i read it sounds like its time to change the front bearing and the back plate seal. but if you do that change the seal at the base of the carb too and the should fix the problem you are having .
#304
Tech Rookie
does an RB V15 really fit an Mugen mtx3? i always thought 2.5cc doesn't fit a 1/10th touring car..
But i had an RB V12 Rody efra legal (3ports) that thing goes like fire. it's damn fast en has lots of torque. on the straight i had short gearing and people had trouble keeping up on the straight. I ran that engine for 2 seasons and it's very reliable. I'm gonna get me another one. And damn are those engines cheap over there because this engine(RB V12 Rody efra legal) I had cotst 350€ over here in holland i think thats about 450dollars or something
But i had an RB V12 Rody efra legal (3ports) that thing goes like fire. it's damn fast en has lots of torque. on the straight i had short gearing and people had trouble keeping up on the straight. I ran that engine for 2 seasons and it's very reliable. I'm gonna get me another one. And damn are those engines cheap over there because this engine(RB V12 Rody efra legal) I had cotst 350€ over here in holland i think thats about 450dollars or something
#305
Originally Posted by rocking_rabbit3
does an RB V15 really fit an Mugen mtx3? i always thought 2.5cc doesn't fit a 1/10th touring car..
But i had an RB V12 Rody efra legal (3ports) that thing goes like fire. it's damn fast en has lots of torque. on the straight i had short gearing and people had trouble keeping up on the straight. I ran that engine for 2 seasons and it's very reliable. I'm gonna get me another one. And damn are those engines cheap over there because this engine(RB V12 Rody efra legal) I had cotst 350€ over here in holland i think thats about 450dollars or something
But i had an RB V12 Rody efra legal (3ports) that thing goes like fire. it's damn fast en has lots of torque. on the straight i had short gearing and people had trouble keeping up on the straight. I ran that engine for 2 seasons and it's very reliable. I'm gonna get me another one. And damn are those engines cheap over there because this engine(RB V12 Rody efra legal) I had cotst 350€ over here in holland i think thats about 450dollars or something
#306
Tech Elite
iTrader: (23)
The V15 fits because it's a small block. Nowadays most small block .15s will fit in the same spot as a .12 motor. If it was the X15 then no it will not fit.
Captain- I know the site is up. I was talking with Rick before I gave him the idea of running the website by himself as I was going to do it. However since I don't get to the net until after 7:50pm or so, it was better he do it. I'm Bert L on there. It's def between a C6, Ninja or the 35 Plus.
Captain- I know the site is up. I was talking with Rick before I gave him the idea of running the website by himself as I was going to do it. However since I don't get to the net until after 7:50pm or so, it was better he do it. I'm Bert L on there. It's def between a C6, Ninja or the 35 Plus.
#307
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
The V15 fits because it's a small block. Nowadays most small block .15s will fit in the same spot as a .12 motor. If it was the X15 then no it will not fit.
Captain- I know the site is up. I was talking with Rick before I gave him the idea of running the website by himself as I was going to do it. However since I don't get to the net until after 7:50pm or so, it was better he do it. I'm Bert L on there. It's def between a C6, Ninja or the 35 Plus.
Captain- I know the site is up. I was talking with Rick before I gave him the idea of running the website by himself as I was going to do it. However since I don't get to the net until after 7:50pm or so, it was better he do it. I'm Bert L on there. It's def between a C6, Ninja or the 35 Plus.
there all good so good luck
#308
Tech Adept
RC FORUM has updated great pictures of RB new products from Toy Fair.
http://rcforum.co.kr/
We are currently adding more pictures now untill Toy Fair finishes.
http://rcforum.co.kr/
We are currently adding more pictures now untill Toy Fair finishes.
#309
Tech Addict
iTrader: (18)
Tuning
Question about tuning my C6 (or any other engine):
I always thought by turning the LSN clockwise, I am leaning it out. Therefore, if the engine takes a while to come down to idle it is too lean (not loading up fast enough with fuel). Somebody (Rich B.) confirm or correct me on this.
Also, how long should the engine be able to idle before loading up?
Thanks,
Steve
I always thought by turning the LSN clockwise, I am leaning it out. Therefore, if the engine takes a while to come down to idle it is too lean (not loading up fast enough with fuel). Somebody (Rich B.) confirm or correct me on this.
Also, how long should the engine be able to idle before loading up?
Thanks,
Steve
#310
Tech Master
Originally Posted by bsmooth
Question about tuning my C6 (or any other engine):
I always thought by turning the LSN clockwise, I am leaning it out. Therefore, if the engine takes a while to come down to idle it is too lean (not loading up fast enough with fuel). Somebody (Rich B.) confirm or correct me on this.
Also, how long should the engine be able to idle before loading up?
Thanks,
Steve
I always thought by turning the LSN clockwise, I am leaning it out. Therefore, if the engine takes a while to come down to idle it is too lean (not loading up fast enough with fuel). Somebody (Rich B.) confirm or correct me on this.
Also, how long should the engine be able to idle before loading up?
Thanks,
Steve
I like to tune with a very low idle - (with the motor close to temp) I rap the throttle... the motor should fall right to a perfect idle no climb no fall off. With a low idle, if the idle increases (right after the rap) it is lean on the bottom - fatten slightly. If the idle decreases or stalls it is too fat. That requires some practice - but, it is the key to tuning. I can bench tune the bottom and focus on the mid and top end on the track. On rare occasions we may work the bottom tune to gain some punch out of the corners. Best you don't try this trick.
I can tune the car to idle smoothly for 5 minutes or 10 seconds. The tighter the compititon the shorter the idle window. Every track has a slightly different tune requirement.
#312
Tech Master
Originally Posted by bsmooth
Thanks Rich.
Could you also give me some tips on how you break in the engine using a run in bench? Any differences I should be aware of compared to running it in on the track?
Regards,
Steve
Could you also give me some tips on how you break in the engine using a run in bench? Any differences I should be aware of compared to running it in on the track?
Regards,
Steve
Everyone has an opinion on "motor break-in".
Here's what I do. Motor in car or bench. Not on track. First and foremost - use a heat gun to warm the motor to 200º F. Start the motor, run at a high idle very fat (almost 4 cycling) spitting oil out of the pipe - temp won't get over 140º - run 85 CC's. Then without stopping the motor bring the temp to 165 - 180º F run 4 tanks. I pull the sleeve at 4 tanks and look at the "pinch band" on the sleeve. If the wear is very even around the sleeve (360º) you'll have a dandy motor. If the wear is uneven - well that won't be the worlds best motor. Go ahead to the track - take it easy until you have about a liter through the motor - then take it to temp.
Remember preheat your motors - it will save you in piston and sleeve life - read $'s!
#314
Good tips Rich!!!!
Hey Rich,
Your personal opinion.... be truthful.
How is C6 Rody compare to C5 Rody. I am in the market for an engine.
Hey Rich,
Your personal opinion.... be truthful.
How is C6 Rody compare to C5 Rody. I am in the market for an engine.
#315
Tech Master
Originally Posted by RCRjuanabbe
Good tips Rich!!!!
Hey Rich,
Your personal opinion.... be truthful.
How is C6 Rody compare to C5 Rody. I am in the market for an engine.
Hey Rich,
Your personal opinion.... be truthful.
How is C6 Rody compare to C5 Rody. I am in the market for an engine.
--
The C6 is an improvement over the C5. The C5 was a solid motor - the C6 is a fast/solid motor. Scott has been running C6's since March of last year. Very impressive. Play with Header and Pipe combos - loads of hidden power. Try RB's 2013 pipe with the matching conical manifold - I wrenched for Rody (and Scotty, too) in Vegas last October, Rody's comment on our set-up: "That is just brutal power". Too bad Rody's battery pack broke in the main.
The Xenon R's are faster - but, sensitive to tune. The C6's are powerful - and very easy to tune - just a "tick" slower.