Hmmm, so nobody has had any experience with these two engines?

Not sure if the RB X12 comes with a 5 port flavor. I'm thinking they probably did, since the RB V12 comes in 3 or 5 port.

I've seen RB V12 5 ports during a race, and they're beasts. It should beat an OS 12 TZ 5 port at all RPM ranges. I have both an OS 12 TZ 5 port and a Mugen X12. The Mugen X12 is an awesome engine. Not many 3 port engines can beat it, and the Mugen X12 is stronger at low and has a bit more top end than my OS 12TZ 5 port.

The RB X12 is a nice engine, but somewhat slow by today's standards. The OS 12TZ 5 port will beat it quite easily. I've raced my friends RB X12. If you have a large track with a straightaway of more than 150ft, the RB X12 will start to lose its power halfway thru the straight. The OS 12TZ 5 port, will eat it up, since it has nice top end power.

:nod: hi guys,
i really need so encouragement because this engine is bugging the crap out of me. i don't want to install another engine in my buggy. i have an RB S5 .21 engine. i am having some serious trouble getting the thing to start. i was barely able to start it, and only one tank of gas has been run through it at idle. however, i can't get the engine to start for the second tank at all!!! now i know this is a common problem with new engines, but the piston is constantly getting stuck at TDC!!! which means i have to take the buggy of the starter box and turn over the flywheel with a screw driver manually, which is really annoying. i installed a brand new plug, fuel is still good, although it was bought in early summer(maybe not still good :sweat: ), and the glow driver has been thoroughly charged(but doesn't hold a very good charge :sweat: ). so, what should i do before i give up on this thing??? any help would greatly be appreciated. :nod:

Two things. Use a heat gun or a hair dryer to heat the engine before you try turning it over. That will help a lot. You can loosen the glow plug a little as well.

It is a new engine and new engines are very tight. It will loosen up over time, but try those things and keep your starter box batteries charged up and it will eventually loosen up for you.

great tips there.

u might need a stronger starter box. or borrow 1 of the mugen seiki 1/8 offroad starter boxes <- the best in the market.

be patient in this process and the engine will give u many gallons of fun.

yay!!! i got it to start without a problem! i purchased new fuel, new(hotter) glow plugs, and a new glow driver. i think because i had a cold plug in the engine it wouldn't get hot enough to ignite the fuel. plus, i think the fuel itself might be a little worn out. getting a better glow driver, one that will last all day, will certainly help too. :nod: obviously i heated up the engine with a hairdryer, which helped tremendously. :nod:

used crank
 

im looking for a halfway good crank to buy for a ws7 2 engine.
and who thinks rb engine kick butt?
and i have another ? whats the best way to lighten the aluminum
shoes?

Can someone please tell me where I Can find a conrod replacement and main bearing for RB engines( RB V12 and RB 1005-C) :)

http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com
800-383-2657

http://www.ashfordhobby.com
800-380-6517

Thanks, again Rich! BTW What % of nitro are you using for your RB 1005-RC and what is the head shimed at. Thanks Mike

We run 30% White Lightning - the heads are shimmed between .023 to .027. Depends on humidity and altitude. We also use the 4 dot High Compression Nova Rossi head - I believe RB has it I don't know the P/N. Where are you running the motor?

Rich, I live in north east Ohio, Not to far from the track in Toledo. The next race will be the winter nats, If my son decides to go, he is the one who races the 05 Evolva. We have in the past run novarossi base motors. Looking to try the RB motors this year and have better luck with this engine. You talk very highly of RB engines and you and Scott seem to have very good success with this motor.This is why I'm asking so many Questions about the Rb 1005-R/C motors and hoping to finally learn something worth while. Thanks, Mike :)

Ask away - happy to help. RB's are well built, fast motors. You are making a a good choice. Feel free to eMail me at [email protected].

rody v12
 

hi guys,

i'm looking to get an Rb v12 rody.
deciding btw the 3port or 5port.
which wld give a better bottom end?
i'm guessing the 3port as a 5port = higher top-end right?
i need more punch out of corners as thr is only one long straight at my track.
thanks in advance!

If you go with the three port, you will be legal, if that is an issue. To get the punch out of the corners, you need to get the clutch dialed-in and get the motor's low end needle tuned correctly. :)

thanks for the info rc racing dude.
for me, 3port or 5port doesn't matter. no legality issues here.
i was thinking that in general, 3port engines has better low-end and 5port ones has more top-end.
even when i looked at the rb website, the 3port rody has more torque than the 5port rody.
but i guess that the 5port will have more power overall...

RB Concept Engines
 

You can get these through www.evolutionhobbies.com. Just send them an email at [email protected]

replacement piston/sleeve in a c5 rody
 

i just bought a used c5 rody. i was wondering if anybody has put the replacement rody piston/sleeve in a used c5 and if the power was comparable to the original motor?
thanks.

It should be just as good as new. Just make sure the crank pin is still round & the right size. If it's not replace the crank too or you may find your engine having a midlife crisis.

RB pipes
 

Any one using the .12 inline pipes from RB? How are they compared to the other pipes you have used? I'm thinking of going with the MFG recommendations for my V12 5 port & my V12 rody. Would love some feedback on this. Thanx

v-concept pipes are very good. The pipe is a match for V12 engines :) It has alot of low-mid torque and good top speed. The pipe is also built with a stronger material.

ok, I just finished breaking in my c12 for my AD2, took forever, but well worth the wait. Engine has gobs of power.

After reading the instruction manual over and over, I came across a part in the back where they say to reaplce the conrod after 1.5 gallons of gas. Has anyone done this?

Just curious is all, I figure $25 for a conrod to make a $200 motor keep from self destructing is ok in my book.

Anyone find a pipe that really works well with this motor? I currently have it setup with the stock Drake pipe.

Thanks

I have a V12 3 port std Rody, but it's the first gen rody model 415. The ROAR V12 Rody 3port turbo 425 being the fastest and the EFRA 445 2nd fastest. They seem to be more finicky to tune, but rev to the sky compared to mine. Anyone have the standard 3 port and tuned the middle range needle? The engine just doesn't seem to be as fast for the $320 I payed for it. I could've ran the Mt12 with 30% fuel instead and that'd be fine, but for now I'm testing my Rody with 30% byrons as it's SOO reliable. It seems to be running at max performance and won't go any faster.

the mid range needle is for transiion when the throttle is open .to give more or less fuel at 25% 50% and 100% in a nut shell

Mid Range Needle

The screw inside the slide body is really the low-end needle, and it plugs into the main jet, or so called mid range needle(the 'brass needle' in the opposite side, usually flush to the surface of the carb body) without obtruding completely to allow a little of fuel to pass when the needle plugs into it to allow the engine to idle.

The dimensions of the jet, or mid range needle (brass needle), its position relative to the venturi, and the dimensions, ramps and shape of the low-end needle dictates the fuel curve of the carburetor (or how much fuel enters by each cfm of air drawn into the engine at a relative carb opening).

At idle speed, the engine is controlled by the low-end needle and how much air pass into the engine via the position of the barrel. But when you start to move the barrel to allow to pass more air, in fact, you're moving too the low-end needle, allowing at the same time to pass more fuel too. The low end needle adjustment is critical, because the engine relies on this adjustment for its temperature control when idling in the infield of the race track. This is the point where the engine does 90% of its work. If the top speed of the engine is good and the engine runs hot, you should generally richen this valve. You should see smoke when you open the throttle at low speed.

Depending at which opening of the barrel the jet (mid range needle) is totally uncovered, and the carburetor starts being mandated by the adjustment of the high-end needle, and how much fuel this last adjustment permits to pass, rather than being governed by the low-end needle, can be varied (and the power band of the engine too, but slightly) by screwing or unscrewing the jet (mid range needle) and readjusting the low-end needle. But be careful screwing the jet too further into the venturi can lead to mix and temperature problems (in fact, you're leaning the mid rpms, where the engine operates at partial opening of the carb, this can lead to problems and erratic operation) this is why on almost all the engine booklets warns you about to not touching this adjustment.

The position of the jet, relative to the venturi also changes the position on where and how much the vortex of air that enters into the carb varies how finely is the fuel sprayed into the air that enters (fuel is converted into a mist for being burned, a drop, no matter how little is doesn't burn and can create many and serious problems). This last can lead up to a conrod breakage (common) or piston breakage (not common but seen some) due to hydro lock.

AFM

Wow, awesome info. :) *Takes notes*

afm. great post but how many people know what cfm is ?
if you are not around a flow bench or measuring tools to know this. what you post is over some of the people heads
you are right on more than one count .even when you say jets thats another tuneing opsion. just wanted to keep it simple. hope what you poste helps them more :)

RB Speedline engine
 

Check out RB website, check out the pop up window. Will RB come out with a new engine? Xenon R Speedline? Any info?

I saw a picture a few days ago, see picture below. Looks like they are made by Sirio.

anyone know if the new motor is for a particular size only? From the pic it looks like that one is a .21 engine. On another note I just broke in my v.12 5 port yesterday. Awsome engine. Very smooth, fires on the first bump, and runs like a raped ape. Can't wait to compete with it.

from what i know .12 - 3.5 and 3.5 offroad and monster truck

You could go to the RB Forum and see what Rody says about the engines. He comments about them in two different threads:

http://www.rbproducts.com

enter the forum -- comments are in:
"New RB..." (Feb 8th) and
"place of XenonR in RB Line" (Feb 10th)

Hey snowy, this rumour was going around at the worlds in Messina. When Ray Wood returned, he told me that RB might switch to Sirio based engines. In the Pic you posted, the carby is Definately Sirio. Exciting stuff. RB has fallen by the way side in Onroad racing and their engines just dont cut it at the moment...

I don't agree that the RB motors have fallen by the wayside in 1/8th On Road. Scott Kimbrow (RB, Kyosho USA and Empire Racing) runs RB's. Here is our record for 2005: We took 3 Firsts (Paris Memorial '05, Speedine Grandprix '05 and Paris Memorial '04) three seconds (ROAR Nationals '05, Great Lakes Challenge '05 and Nitro Showdown '05). We won the RAMS title by TQing and winning 7 out of 8 races.

We finished no lower than second all year - we had no DNF's that was over 21 races in '05.

We (Empire) were fast last year - plus, we finished all of our races.
Let's see what happens this year.

Great results. No one can really argue with that, but with all due respect thats all in the USA. Where did they finish at the 200mm IFMAR worlds in Brazil in 2004? Where did they finish at the 1/8th IFMAR Worlds in Messina 2005?

Maybe i was a little unfair by saying that they have fallen by the way side. What im trying to say is that they have a bit of catching up to do, now that the 35 Plus 21 is out, JP is working on a 35 Plus 21, Sirio, Ninja, etc...

Thanks for the comment - we are pleased with them as well. I can't speak for Messina/Brazil. I can only pass along on our positive experience. The races we attended had a very high level of competition, agreed they were not International - still, great racing - plus, we never had a motor fail.

Who's to say RB isn't developing new products as well? It seems, from what was displayed at Nuremberg and posted on RB Forum, they are developing/releasing "new" 1/8th On-Road power. You have made valid points - RB does seem "low key" in On-Road - but, I think that is by choice - not product ability. I think RB is underrated - let's see what 2006 brings.

running time rody 12 5port
 

how much running time can a rody v12 5port engine do with 25% nitro. :confused:

Depends on how ya tune it and run it. Maybe 7 minutes or so

Anyone remember the RB C3? How was its power and performance? I was offered it at my LHS for my Top engine and I'm wondering if it will increase or weaken performance. The only way to know though is to run the top on 30% as is and compare in the future I guess. :nod:

running time rody 12 5port
 

what temp are u running farenheit. having a hard time doing 6min with 240farenheit

I have a Rody V12 3 port standard. I run around 220+ and get 6-7 minutes run time. I've been using 20% btw. If I lean it out a little more and go full speed 6 minutes run time is about right.