fast
 

From what I've seen, Rick and Josh's engines were moving at the Sedan Nats.

Call us here at Team Orion USA 714-694-2812. Ask for Traci or Joe and they will sell you what you need. We have all the plugs in stock.

I ran the Peak Diablo .12 CRF engine (same as WASP REV)) today at the Canadian Nats 1/10 Touring and some how it feels no bottom end, this observation holds true for 3 other drivers too using WASP.

We tigthened the Centax, changed to a harder centax spring. I am now begining to think either i have lean out enough of the low end needle or this motor has no bottom end.

It shows that there is more speed one it is at the end of the straight. still wants to go.....

Looks like i have to gear it down. to accommodate the weaker low end... Does anyone have the same observations, any suggestions ?

We have one more qualifier in the morning tommorrow.

There is absolutely no problem with the bottom end. With the proper setup this engine will drive away from any other engine from standing still. If your engine bogs and your carburation is right, then you are either running a clutch which engages too early, a pipe that does not suit the motor, or improper gear ratio.

You need your clutch to engage when the engine has reached it's optimal rpm range, which is higher in the case of the CRF engine. The CRF engine develops it's power later, meaning that the clutch has to engage roughly 5000rpm later. Obviously most clutches in their original form are not designed for this.

The stiffness of the spring and the gap between the clutch bell and the shoe are both important. Also remember that when you tighten a spring, the pressure increases exponentially. If you screw the spring adjust nut 2mm versus 1mm you will have a lot more than 2 times the pressure. By tightening a spring too much you reach a point where it does not fill it's spring function anymore so if you tighten a softer spring it's not the same as using a stiffer spring from the start.

The only one which gets quite close is the Kyosho clutch with these settings:

Kyosho White Clutch Weight - Drilled to 3.5mm
Kyosho 1.9mm Hard Spring at 1.40 setting
Gap = .50
Kyosho Grey Clutch Shoe

With these motors you really need to adjust the GEARING!!! Everyone remember, this engine likes to REV so be careful to not hand too much gear on it. Use a shorter gear ratio and the engine works much better!!!

Recommended gear ratio for most tracks is 7,38 en 1st speed and 5,09 in 2nd speed.

AFM

afm,

Thanks for the info above. Just got the motor yesterday and I'm wanting to know what pipe would be good for this motor. I know Rick H. made a comment about the orion pipe but wanted to know if any other pipes would work.

Plugs will also be an issue, I know the mention a #6 orion plug, just wanting to know if I should try a #7 also?

Thanks

Thanks for the supplement information.. I came to the same conclusion that the clutch setting and lower gearing is very important too. I am determined to try it again tommorrow with lower gearing.

Pipes: That's a mystery up till now....apparently it works best with Team Orion's own pipes, but the dyno tests were made with Novarossi's 2601 pipe and the engine made it's top HP readings. So far from factory testing you are better off using headers/pipes that favor low end torque, the engine will take care of the top end speed.

Plugs: Fabrice Ramella, the designer of the engine tried everything for 2 years. Many plugs can work but he was not satisfied with the life of them, so he decided to create the CRF plugs which are just supposed to have longer life and excellent ignition. For 25% and higher I would use either the #6 or #7. If you are running 16% you might want to run the #5 or #6. The #7 with 16% can be a bit too cold of a plug - I would only use this in 90F+ weather.

Of course Team Orion recommends their plugs but others will work. It is a good practice though to use the head button with Orion plugs, if you use a different plug then continue to use that plug with that button. If you want to switch back to a different plug or the Orion ones, use a new combustion chamber - The Orion plug is slightly different but when you tighten in another plug it works fine. It's just not a good practice to jump from one to another for tuning purpose and fatigue on the aluminum of the combustion chamber. They suggest the Orion plugs because they will produce slightly more power.

AFM

Im currently using the CRF engine with the Nova 2601 pipe.I found that the low end is a little weak..probably due to my inexperience tuning.Can anyone out there tell me how much shall i tune the HSN and LSN to get a proper tuning.

Wanted to let you guys know that a friend of mine is using a os #6 plug and he doesn't have any problems with the low end. He is using the Mugen Shimo pipe that was used in the x dyno testing. He loves the motor now!

I don't know if it is recommend but he says there is no issues with low end power now!

fyi

New Wasp Motor Need Help !!!
 

Just got my new wasp installed into my RRR and started to break it in this weekend. I left the box settings on the motor and head shims as it came. I live in Louisville, Kentucky so the temp here has been in the 90's with high humidity. I was using the glow plug that came with the motor, a #6. I run 20% Trinity Platinum fuel with the RD Logics 6505 pipe. I couldn't get the motor to run at any lower than 230 degrees. The stock settings made the motor run very lean and I had to richen both the top and bottom to bring down the temp. Now the bottom end has a real bad bog after sitting for more than 5 seconds. After it cleans out it runs great, but no lower than 230. Any help would be appreciated !!!!!

The engines normal running temp is 257, its in the manual

Where are you guys buying this engine and at what price? I might invest in the engine/clutch/pipe...

Hey,I am looking at one of these engines but I'm not a great engine tunner...are thse for me or am I waisting my time? Also what are the main difs between the comp and the Roar versions?
Thanks

Riketsu - We have the engines in stock and we've been selling them at $280. The pipe/manifold/gasket/spring sets are $116 and the Clutch kits are $35 (I think), square wire spring is $14 and the shoes and weights are $18. You can e-mail us via our contact page on www.cefx.net. Soon we'll have www.cefxraceway.net up and running with a full line e-commerce hobby shop so you can check everything out and purchase things there.

Ijust bought the Peak Diablo version of this engine but haven't run it yet, i will when my RRR evo arrived . My question is, the crankshaft has a little bit of play around the bearing(you can move it lateraly or vertically), is this normal? From what i ve experience with other engine,this looks like sign of worn crankshaft bearing.

CRF Specs
 

Can anybody confirm if these timing figures are correct???

Induction:
Opens 15º ABDC
Closes 70º ATDC
Total induction 235º

Total Transfer: 124º

Total Exhaust: 172º

What's the bore and stroke on this engine???


AFM

head shim
 

hi my name is brett i just recieved my new crf 12 i'm running 16% fuel what head shim do i remove.I live in Brisbane Australia where we have a hot and humid climate can anyone share some info. :cool:

Have a buddy that just got a Wasp to fit into hes G4S.
Any guys have recommendations for gearing the G4S with the Wasp.
Some guys have said that they cant gear down enough to get the bottom end responsive enough.
Any ideas or recommendations welcome.

Here you go, official CRF gearing for the G4S :

-1st gear 18/52
-2nd gear 23/47

For the bottom end, the original clutch does not suit the engine well, you need to get our special clutch parts set. I have a G4S and the car flies with this engine :nod:

Nano

The lateral play is very normal and a little vertical can also be felt. It will be ok once you install the flywheel and make it tight.

Nano

Thanks Nano

We ran 18/52 23/46 ,car ran well.
Buddy managed to TQ and take the win in the A mains.
Engine ran a bit hot but it hadnt had more than 8 tanks through it by the finals.Sure there si more in there.

is it normal for these engines to run 300 deg im running 30% fuel after a 20min main my temp is at 300 but the engine has lots of power at that temp the only problem is when the engine get to idle it bogs really bad when i try to take off is this my clutch or is this engine tune and i have it on a mtx4 with the crf clutch

What is the best gearing for a Mugen MTX4. I tried mine this weekend and I was very pleased

If you hear the deep "waugh, waugh, waugh" sound and your car doesn't go anywhere, it means that your low speed needle is too rich. When my engine runs at 300F, it's a missle, but I know that the high speed needle is a bit too lean. Clutch setting and 2nd gear shift point may also impact your temps, but if your clutch isn't slipping and your 2nd gear is shifting correctly after the engine has warmed up properly (3min), then it may just be your settings.

Some info posted by Brian Kinney may be helpful if you haven't already seen it:

- http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...&postcount=608

Hope this helps :)

Nano can you give me your clutch settings for the g4s?? Thanks a lot.

I don't remember exactly the setting because my engine and clutch are in parts right now and I haven't had time to run the car in a while.

One thing though is that when using the CRF clutch parts on the Team Magic, the nut that tightens the flywheel on the engine shaft is too short and that can cause problems with the clutch function. You want to add a spacer between the nut and the flywheel. This way you can tighten the spring adjust nut without making the spring too tight. I used a spacer that was 0.8mm thick. Then the spring adjust nut was tighetened about 0.5mm lower than the edge of the flywheel nut.

Hope this helps!

Nano

so should i have it to shift early or close to 1st gear is out

You don't want it shifting early. ;)

hi guys whats the recomended shims for the CRF if you are running 20% ?

Great newz and bad newz, can you say balestic?? I got the engine going even better than before, crazt fast talking 1/8 speed on our club track no lie. Glad so many other are afraid to run this engine from what they hear and the make, only give me the advantage ;) . But one thing, engine kept shifting and was blowing gears in my RRR. Anyone else having this problem? I try with and without locktite but to no avail. I am to give it another go today. Big trohpy race sunday, and want to be ready.

The engine is not causing your problem. It's something else. Did you see this post? (click here) With the engine out of the car, does your 2nd gear spur spin freely? Make sure it's not binding up on the shoe.

20% is on the border. You can run it with two shims or with just one shim. You need to determine what's best in your particular situation, based on plug selection, fuel brand and environmental conditions.

rmdhawaii,

Thanks, I know the pinions are silghtly worn, but I tried again today. I put a dab of red locktite and it seem to do the trick, just hope I can loosen it now. :eek:
Maybe another factor was that when testing today, I heard a little noise high pitched, like a whistle. I stopped running, engine was still amazing. Got it home and took it apart, nothing I could see wrong inside. Then I played with the clutch. Bingo, blew the small clutchbearing apart. Now I feel a whole lot better.

Heres another question, at about what intervals are you changing the conrods. I have over a gal in it now.

Thanks
Charlie

rmdhawaii,

Thanks!

Charlie: Not sure about the conrod. I've put about 3/4 gallon through the engine so far. I may just wait until it goes to find out. :sneaky:

reecek: :)

..

Is anybody knows what kind of updated piston and liner was using Cyrul at the world's??

Is it always a Nikasil liner or a new ABC piston/liner kit ??

Well as for the piston/liner, the conrod will generally not have to be changed for a long long time^^. The only part that needs to be replaced for sure is the rear bearing every 10 hours. The rest will depend on how you use and maintain your motor.

You state you took apart your motor, I hope you took great care while putting it together again. It's crucial that the head is tightened evenly on the case.

Nano

For sure it wasn't ABC that was used, we have developped a working system using Nikasil plating for our liner and we know why^^

As for different timings on the ports, I will have to check out with the crew when they come back from Australia.

You're kidding me, right? First time I've heard of this. When did this info come to light?