Cyrul's Break in Procedures
 

I have some questions regarding Cyrul's break in procedures. I've number the steps and added some questions next to it. I hope you can clarify the steps much better.

At what temperature can I start the process?
For how long do you hold the throttle? The whole full tank?
When should I start opening the top end needle during the full throttle hold? At the beginning? At intervals? I don't want to flame out too early until all the fuel is used up.
Do I do step 3 as well again in this step?
Is this between tanks or after the 3rd tank?
So two more times after doing 3 tanks?
Isn't this the fifth tank?
So this is on tank 6,7, and 8?

Wow. I had all the exact same questions when I read through that method. It was so hard to understand I said screw it.

Josh is the KING....follow his instruction....dont add anything...

1. exactly what is is says several blips. Just get some good warmth into it...say a ~30 sec..just feel it make sure its good and warm.

2. not the whole tank....go directly to step 3.

3. again...keep opening slowly (while you are at WOT) until you engine shuts off (called a flame out)...yes imeediately start doing this when you reach this step..does it say to wait? (See what I mean....just follow the instructions!! easy) Just open slowly...like a 1/8 of a turn every 1~2 sec....

4. NO...does it say to go back to step 3??? LOL

5. Just enough time to add more fuel and go again...

6. Yes another 3 tanks

7. actually last time I checked 3+3 = 6. so it would be the 6th tank!!!

8. odd...you math looks correct there!!! LOL

9. no questions and self explanatory.


OK so I hope you sensed the sarcasm there in some responses!! Just do not add anything or do not change anything. Assume nothing and just follow the instructions.

I am sure you are confused in part because there are a million different methods out there. Thsi one is spot ON. A great method and no need to buy an expensive bench.

Just make sure you have an extra glow plug as you might kill one running so rich.

remember with tuning and break in rely on your senses. Sight, sound and touch...dont worry so much about the temp guns etc...

Also follow Josh's tuning method...hell all of his advice is awsome.

This break in method is like a recipe. You will have consitency with all your break in procedures from here on in. Just make a print out and have it with you when you do it. Follow it EXACTLY.

It isnt complicated if we just follow exactly as it says....

John

Thanks John for the clarification. I feel much more confident now to start using this method of breakin.

john,
one thing... you do not worry about temp when you break the engine in? if you break an engine in at too low of a temp, you will wear out your liner (sleeve) and loose compression. when the engine heats up, the liner (sleeve) expands. now if you do not heat the liner up enough, the liner will not expand enough and when the piston goes up through it, it will wear the liner. this causes loss of compression.

Joe,

You are correct about wear at low temps however if Cyul's methods are used temp is a non isue. They are inline.

Low temps are a worry mainly with people who idle their engines as a break in method, or who start right away with the incar method and too rich...

Also the comment about temps was missunderstood by you. Do not get caught on 200...or 220...or 190. If its running right and its "in the ballpark" then leave it!!

Some motors like it hot....some like it cool. Just run it where it likes. Thats the point. I see too many people tuning the engine with the temp gun. Tune the engine for the conditions and use the temp gun as a refrence only. That was the point.


John

John,

Will this solve replacing the conrod after break in in most engines?

Is it so terrible for someone newer to the hobby to ask for an abridged version of this particular break in procedure being as widely known as you infer? No.

I'm brand spankin' new and there were far too many words in that procedure. I work on my cars and am mechanically inclined, I need a picture and some short steps like you would see in a workshop manual.

Maybe our reading comprehension is not up to the same level. Regardless, two newbs can now understand it better because of the clarification. So sarcasm aside, thanks! I hope there's time tonight after work to run through the procedure with a friend and his new ATM.

Sunny

hi....just to add some assurance to this method...i have triied it and with no problem whatsoever....my motor is still goin strong after 2/3 litres of fuel...i followed exactly what the article wrote..enjoy....:)

JaguarXJ6,

Anger Management classes might be offered for free by your local government. I suggest you take a look at them...

A sense of humour is something useful at times.....as for your reading comprehension....Dont think I ever stated anything in regards to that, and you weren't even in the original post?

Again a sense of humour buddy. As for the comment you pasted..Josh is an awsome guy. One of the best in the world without a doubt. He is more knowledgable than anyone I have actually spoken too.

His procedures are awsome. Sometimes we all have a pre-conceived notion as what to do. Be it from other experience or even past r/c, but if we follow it exactly and assume nothing his instruction are great.

If in the future you have questions with his instructions he actually answers them on his forum. www.cefx.net

I am sure that he would be more than happy to answer any questions you have there.

John

Hey, its all good! Don't read too much in my reply, I'm a hands on type of guy and your post was one of the first I read. Your help was appreciated.

Sunny

A person that deals with fuels on another forum argued that temperature has nothing to do with an engine's life. Tune the engine by sight and sound.

For instance: this so called universal 240 degree temperature does not work on all engines.

I agree with him. If there is smoke and the engine runs fine, tunes fine, why would someone need a temp gun?

Yes, Cyrul's tips on Nitros rock!

revzalot,

The conrod replacement after breakin is interesting. I can agree with both sides of the fence, but the best bet is to check the conrod after every event.

That being said my experience is limited to Novarossi based engines. I haven't seen a need to change the conrod after breakin yet. The WOT ( wide open throttle ) technique also seems to be better for conrods...."seems".

An easy test for blatent wear is to open the back case and pour some after-run oil where the conrod connects to the crack and turn it over s-l-o-w-l-y. If you see "bubbles" then its time to change.

If you make it to a gallon of fuel and still see nothing then you can change for as a precaution.

If your a nut (in a positive way) and have accurate calipers you can take readings of the crank and conrod when new and go from there also.

I suggest a somewhat accurate logbook to document the usage you are putting on the engine. This will help with regular maintenence if you have more than one engine sharing the same fuel container.

You will hear a million different answers to the same question here. And most of them might even be correct. Just use the one that is the easiest and makes most sense to you.

I like Cyruls because its tried and tested by many people with no issues. To many people breaking in an engine at WOT seems a little...insane!! But in reality you are controling the maximum RPM with the fuel load...so it isnt a runaway screaming engine.

The one think that still makes me cringe is people who sit theor car on a starter box and let it idle...what a waste. That is the worst thing you can do to your new expensive motor..but hey its your $$$ and Cyruls advice is free...

If you ever get the chance to meet Cyrul (Go to the Toledo track at a big event) you will see he is a great guy...

All the best to you guys and good luck with the hobby.

John

Hey guys, I find all the ??'s interesting and I will try to clarify anything I write in the future as much as possible so it's easier to understand. Writing the "tech" articles can be difficult as experience level as well as different lingo can make things tough to make 100% clear. I'm working on a bunch more but I guess I need to double check through them a bunch more!!!

performula - Remember another thing about temp - It is very easy to get lost. Just the head shape alone will make a huge difference - Example - When I raced for Serpent we ran the old Mega heads that had the circular fins as well as some straight fins on the top of the engine. The opening for the glow plug was also a lot smaller so the temps read around 200F and the engines were good. We recieved the new engines with the new heads and everyone tuned for 200F and the engines were rich, no power with no milage and immediatly everyone said they were terrible. The difference?? The newer heads had a bigger opening around the plug allowing the temp gun to sit 10-15mm closer to the glow plug and the temp range changed about 20-30 degrees. We leaned the new engines out to 230F and they were awesome. That's why it's important when you test a head that will "make your engine run 30 degrees cooler" that you base your engines temp off of the track performance - rich or leaner - for a tank before you adjust the needles. A taller head will always read a lower temp..... As far as metals and performance - it is still best to get optimum performance around 200-230F. Any hotter than that and it's hard for the materials to expand/contract without warping or destorting resulting in a loss of power.....

The change of conrod, while not always needed is a good practice (especially for the al. sleeved motors).

From my expirience, Josh's method is realy great and if follow it-results for sure will be positive.
About materials, as it goes on conventional set ups-ABC or AAC, yes they expaniton rates are very critical.
In my particular case ( BRB set ups) and we did a lot of testing on all variety of temp, the temperature doesn't make big difference ( in reasonble limits). Actualy hoter you running is better, but again, in the limits.
About changing conrods-yes on all mass production engines it has to be done. But there is materials available much better and works 4-5 times longer then stock, but this is different story.
Conclusion-yes Cyrul"s method is really good and usefull and I recomend to everybody follow it up.
Edward

I especially like how you keep opening the top end needle at WOT to clean all the junk out of the motor while breaking it in or tuning it. Very nice method!

I never fire up a new engine without opening it up and cleaning the internals first. I don't care how much fuel you are flushing through an engine- if there is really any metal fragments in there before you start it up you will damage the engine. It only takes 10 minutes to open the engine and clean it with some denatured alcohol or old fuel and compressed air.

Good advice cdelong. Yes clean is fast! Can I just take off the back plate, heat sink head, and carb off, then spray fuel throughout the innards of the motor?

I take it down to bare bones- just leave the bearings in the block. I have a RB V12 arriving tomorrow and think I'll try this break-in method on it. I've never had a problem with "puttering" around the driveway around 200- 220F, but this sounds quicker.

Just a question on cleaning and blasting air into the engine - i was told you should not blast air directly into the engine bearings as this would cause damage to them but anywhere else in the internals are fine. Is this true?

...

Before last weekend the piston on my RB V12 5 port could only travel half way up the sleeve. After last weekend's Asian Mugen Cup Finals, it now travels all the way up the sleeve infact slightly above the top of the sleeve without any compression left? I was running with 0.4 head shims, No.6 nove plug, 25% byron and at a race temp between 110-130c. There is slight freeplay between the conrod bushing and the crank pin. What went wrong?

Josh, I hope you will see this but here is my question with your method.

I tried it step by step but that engine died in the middle of a race--a broken piston. Luckily it was a handout motor ($50 for race entry includes a motor). It wasn't the best motor out there so the failure could've been due to material or worksmanship.

But looking back, I see a problem. You stated that once the engine is up to temperature, we should richen the top needle until the engine flames out. Well I had to open it so much before it flamed out that the engine cooled down and was only running at about 100F. That couldn't have been good?

Also, as mentioned in other posts before, wouldn't full throttle for 5 tanks especially when the engine is tight and temperature is lower be bad for the con rod? I mean yes replacing it is always a good idea but having to replace a $20-$30 con rod right after breaking in seems a bit excessive doesn't it?

I hope you and everyone don't take this the wrong way. I am just curious. Please let me know if I am not following your method correctly.

And if you actually saw the post, good luck with the Reedy and I can't wait to see that new Kyosho car!

You can try this one http://www.johnnycoolguy.com/JCGR/ma..._break-in.html

A broken piston probably has very little to do with the break-in method. My name isn't Rody or Cyrul, but I'm guessing the most likely reason for a broken piston is poor materials or possibly over revving.

If the motor was up to operating temperature and you richened it until it flamed out it shouldn't have dropped that much. Also, he only suggests doing that to flush out the motor. If it was new and clean it probably didn't need to go to the full extreme of flaming out. However, even still it didn't hurt the motor.

When the motor is above 175F the piston isn't anywhere near as tight as it feels when cool. The reason it's tight when cool is because the sleeve has contracted and is pinching the piston at TDC. This is another reason I try not to rev my motor(s) hard until they have been started a few seconds. I set the hi idle on my radio to start the motor and let it hi idle for 8-10 sec.

I'm sure Josh won't be on here any time soon because of the Reedy so I hope I was able to help a little

Thanks Jason. I think that is good we are discussing these because if someone did as the instruction he/she might be breaking-in the engine at 100F like I did. Not good.

Since that experience, I have broke in a couple of engines following Josh's method but with some changes. Instead of running it very rich, I just run it at perhaps a turn or two rich, and keep the tempurature at above 180F. Instead of running it WOT the whole time, I will do full throttle for a second or so and idle for 2-3 seconds. I figure this way I am breaking-in at operating temperature and am not working the con rod too much. It takes quite a bit longer but both of the engines I broke-in have been very fast and reliable.

so I followed the procedure on the first tank......then it started to rain..here's my question........warmed it.......Flamed it......leaned it 1/4 turn.......ran the 1st tank...engine never got over 120 degrees......

brand new rb turbo..measured with a Ray tech gun.....in a r40....

I still feel funny that the motors not hitting 190-200.......of course,if you read RODY's instructions,he wants you to run the car on the track....with the motor just about 4 stroking....and not high rpm.....

pretty much doing the same thing....But I'm gonna go with Josh's method..which is quicker,easier,and less of a PIA....

any reason I shouldn't be concerned?....

Hİ!
What about the methods in the motors manuel?
In Tz's manuel it says " Try to make time to run the car at full throttle. Lenghten full throttle runnibg time gradually. When the car can run full throttle, close the needle valf, etc"
So it is close to cruel's method. What about other manuels?

it seems all the manuels wwnt you to run the enine rich.....when I followed Rodys RB instructions,the motor never got over 140 for the first few tanks either.........

neither will the os if you run it like they want you too...it seems like they want you to run the cars with no regard to temps during break in...and that getting fuel is the motor is more important...

WOT BREAK-IN

Idling an engine and letting it run slow, 1/4, 1/2 throttle is incorrect. You want Wide Open Throttle after it warms up. YES Wide Open Throttle, even when it is brand new. This is in order to bring the engine up to temp. and fit the sleeve to what it was designed to run at. Anything less, and you are just leading your engine to an early death.

Yes, running at WOT slightly rich, but not 4 stroking rich is the proper way to do it. Here is some further explanation of ” the way”, and why it is the proper way.

As for break-in, there is a whole lot of misunderstanding about this basic engine operation.
Although we use the term “break-in”, by its wording alone it is misleading, because people wrongly assume it means to slowly and gradually bring an engine to tune by idling tanks of fuel, but you will see why this is incorrect and unnecessarily wastes fuel too!

It will take some time to convince yourself to bring a new engine to WOT, but when you start to understand it and why it is correct, you will realize just how many people are completely breaking the engine totally incorrectly.

It’s important to learn the theory about how these engines run ( 2 stroke ABC, ABN, AAC), and how to break them in, especially because I see WAY TOO MANY people using the wrong procedure of idling many tanks of fuel through the engine. That is unnecessary and damaging.

These engines use a sleeve around the piston to make the seal (piston doesn't have a ring) and it operates properly only with sufficient heat so that the sleeve can expand to its designed operating size and fit. All engines will be tight, especially when new, so on the initial runs, you want to have it get up to temp, so it can run how it is was designed to. By idling tanks and tanks through, overly rich and cool, the sleeve just wears MORE against the piston because it is not hot enough to expand to its operating size. And by doing that you are prematurely wearing out and ruining your engine. The piston/sleeve is designed to operate at running temps. Not doing this by running cool and rich on the bench leads to premature wear. By idling away tanks of fuel I GUARANTEE you are doing more harm than good. As long as the engine is warmed up first, you don’t have to drag out bringing it up to temp when it is brand new. It wont hurt or damage the working parts. These engines are very simple 2 stroke machines. They do not have extensive moving parts such as valves, cams, lifters, springs, etc. (like 4 strokers) so all this extra gentle, rich, cool operation is completely unnecessary (and worse it’s harmful). HOWEVER, the sleeve around the piston can be a delicate thing to maintain, and it is not forgiving of improper treatment, and improper treatment of a piston and sleeve is running it at a temp it is not designed for. (either too cold or too hot, both are just as detrimental) Most often this is done by running it too rich which makes it too cold because the rich mixture doesn't generate enough combustion heat for proper sleeve expansion. Just as damaging can be an excessively lean run. If it is run overly lean for any length of time it will destroy the sleeve. (that is why fuels with castor oil as part of the lube mix are very good because they tolerate the too high heat of a very lean run and will help to save the sleeve if it is not run too lean for too long (but avoiding a lean run is essential when you know enough about engine tuning to avoid it).

Running a 2 stroke engine slow and rich makes it '4 stroke' which means it fires every other revolution, and that generates even less heat. It causes damage and wastes fuel as well. Most important is to 'heat cycle' the engine at least 10 times to relieve the parts of manufacturing stresses. HEAT CYCLING REALLY IS WHAT BREAK IN IS ALL ABOUT. (I even think break-in should be called “Initial Heat Cycling” instead so that people understand what and why they are doing it.)

Run the engine in a bench for 2 - 3 minutes at full throttle (yes, WOT, don’t baby it), after briefly warming up of course, and then shut down and repeat after the engine has fully cooled. Let it cool down completely. Heat cycling is the name of the game. You want it to come up to temp for a brief time, and cool down and repeat. After shutting down, adjust the flywheel so that the piston is at BDC (bottom dead center) so that it does not get stuck in the contracting/cooling sleeve, as can often happen. (If the piston should accidentally get stuck in the sleeve, preheat the cylinder to free the piston from the sleeve.). Follow this procedure for at least 3 tanks, then put the engine on the car and do another 3 tanks at the track to finish Break-in, leaning the engine a bit after every run

During these initial runs YOU WANT the temps to be at least 90° C but not above 109° C.
After break-in, running temps above 109°C is fine. In fact new generation nitro engines perform best when run at 120°C – 130°C. Below those temps they are less efficient and less powerful.
However, going by the mixture is more important than trying to measure temp with heat guns, etc. which you may wind up doing inconsistently. The mixture setting on the High Speed Needle is critical in the first runs. It should be a rich and not lean setting. However it should not be so rich that it 4 strokes.

Also, to start a brand new engine it is very worthwhile to preheat the engine with a heat gun or hair dryer if it has a very tight piston/sleeve fit and you are having trouble turning it over to start it up. This will expand the sleeve some, and when you turn it over the piston will not excessively rub, or even get stuck in the sleeve (as sometimes can happen). Preheating really works well. You do want to run it on the rich side, but you want it to come up to temp also, just not more than 2-3 minutes in beginning runs, in order to keep temps around 109°C. Listen carefully to the exhaust noise or ‘note’, as you do not want it to be ‘4 stroking’. If it is, it needs to be leaned slowly until it runs 2 stroke. You can tell it is 4 stroking if it is very “boggy” and “hesitant” in acceleration and running. If it is making that “burbling” sound then it is 4 stroking which means it is running too rich and therefore too cold.

Everyone thinks they have to run it super cool and check to be sure temps are low. That's not what it is about. The reverse is true! Cool operation is damaging operation. Little, if any, break-in will occur unless it is heat cycled properly.

The manufactures can’t make a piston/sleeve turn over smoothly at room temp, because when the engine runs the sleeve will expand and there will be no seal at operating temp. See how that makes sense?!

So preheat it if necessary and don't run it cool, and heat cycle it, and you'll be good to go! After you have done this several times then you can gradually lean out the HSN to get best performance, but it should then be richened up just rich of peak to ensure it lasts long too. Running it at max peak rpm will lead to the shortest useful life of the piston and sleeve. If racing that is fine but if you are just playing you may want to run just a little richer than that peak setting. After the HSN is set then it is time to set the low and/or mid range needles and idling setting.

I see a lot of people idle the engine for a tank and then they let it cool off thinking that they are "heat cycling" it. However, because they are not running it up to WOT it is not generating enough heat to be of any use to a break-in/heat cycle. So, inadvertently by idling they are just letting the engine sleeve and piston wear away from the cold tight fit that they are allowing to happen when idling away on the bench. Research has shown that basically no break-in effect takes place AT ALL unless the engine is allowed to come up to operating temp for 2 minutes. So if you are idling away and then let it cool there is zero break-in/heat cycle benefit. But if you want to wear away the sleeve and piston fit then idling will definitely do it for you.

As you’ve read, there are a number of reasons why I disagree with conventional break-in methods, but the most important are:

1) Heat cycling- rich and slow means not enough heat.

2) Aluminum connecting rod stretches. If you break in a motor with aluminum rods at low RPMs, and begin the mating of the piston and sleeve (since r/c motors don't have rings), then when you go to WOT the piston actually goes higher than it did during break-in and begins to destroy the surfaces not used.

I hope this is helpful!!

AFM

P.S. If you want to hear it from him, read Dave Gierke’s article in the January 2002 issue of “RC Nitro” magazine! "

This is what Rody Roem from RB Concept says for Break-In

Before you start to Break-in an engine on the bench, I suggest you cover the cooling-head with something, so the engine heats-up properly FOR ONE TANK at idle (without the cover the engine will stay too cold).

Then start the engine and let it run rich at full throttle with or without the cover (depending on temp):
2-tanks at about 80°C.
Then 2 more tanks at 90°C.
Then 1 more tank at 100°C.

After this your engine is almost run-in, however you need to finish the rest of the Break-in in the car for about 2 more tanks tuning your needles for max power and you are then ready to go.

With the engine at full-throttle, you are sure that the idle needle is not in front of the spray bar, so you are running the engine really on the setting of the main-needle and you’re also sure the engine will run rich. Also more fuel/air will go through the engine at full throttle so there’s better lubrication.
DON’T FORGET TO COOL-OFF YOUR ENGINE COMPLETELY AFTER EVERY TANK.

Rody Roem
RB Concept Engines

thats all well and good....but getting the engine to flame out..and then turning in 1/4 turn..and then running the WOT(..according to Josh's method)..does not yield temps in the 190 to 200 range.....

so maybe I should lean it out a tad..get the temp to 200..an then run it 3 tanks?....

This is what Rody Roem from RB Concept says for Break-In

Before you start to Break-in an engine on the bench, I suggest you cover the cooling-head with something, so the engine heats-up properly FOR ONE TANK at idle (without the cover the engine will stay too cold).

Then start the engine and let it run rich at full throttle with or without the cover (depending on temp):
2-tanks at about 80°C.
Then 2 more tanks at 90°C.
Then 1 more tank at 100°C.

AFM

but thats using a break in bench........I'm gonna run it under load like Josh says on the box..WOT......his method does not give those temps on the first 3 tanks......

You think I should lean it till it hits those temps?..

FastHarry.

I've also used Josh's method with the engine on the car and on the starter box, and i also cover the cooling head with aluminum foil to get the engine up to temperature. If that doesn't work, than you can start thinking on leaning your HSN a bit.

AFM

will do.....thanks......

Ill have to admit thats a good solution afm. Keeps it at the rich setting and the temps up.

I kinda wish I did the WOT method on my latest d3r now. But my method was a combo of what was suggested by dino for the sts motors. He says to heat cycle the motor to 80C I believe several times. I kinda feel this is neccessary to relieve the initial tightness.

Rather than bust out at full throttle with it at its tightest point, which sounds like a bunch of un-needed stress.

I kinda like dinos method I guess you could say. Cause its just a couple of heat cycles with a specified higher temp, which isnt going to leave it too cold. Then you you swap over to 50-80% throttle blips , on off on off as he says. This to me sounds good and what Ive always done as your able to wait for a second to load in a little more fuel , then what I would figure on off blasts would do is churn up the gas a bit more , rather than send it straight through at high speed and always at the same pathway. With on/off blasts your at least getting some randomness and thats what I feel is needed, basically its your insurance policy.

This way your also not overloading it with gas and sending it through as fast as possible but to where theres so much it cant even get into correct rpms at least somewhat and your always just sitting there.

I also feel just a little to nervous with throttle planted at wot like that. Rather in the throttle blipping method you have a little more down time if needed and you can immediatly stop for a second or two let the car idle for a bit you can check temps , adjust the needle and so forth.

I also kinda like how OS says to change the range a little. Rather than keep it the same. This way it keeps building and building. It may work , but with the WOT method and no temp changes you might not have done it right then move on to the next method and you fly up to a whole new temp range a lot more metal will come out at once.

If you gradually change temps , then things will gradually change and your still blowing through lots of fuel , youll also be removing things one step at a time rather than all at once if things dont go right.

Its kind of like applying the same pressure all at once and keeping it there. It will work overtime. But are you sure its correct? Thats a lot to gamble on. With the blipping and gradual changes you know its coming out little by little.

Ive always believed in gradual temps, but the wot method also interests me. Ive always blipped my cars and they seem to last well. I think with the new heat cycling that I found out from dino and now see this being spoken about elsewhere it sounds good.

I just still want to idle it at first for a few cycles rather than shoot for WOT. The small amount of idling shouldnt do damage and will loosen up the motor enough to prepare it to go into the higher rpm and take wot or blipping.

But I do agree that letting it idle for quite a few tanks is also probably not a good idea. But who has really sat down and tested this fully? I mean im sure people might have observed or thought they observed more life from motors but who has actually tested this out and measured things? Id like to see some test data or something on this perhaps.

But then who will also be able to see what stress the motor has taken for what each method and if one method or the other might snap the con-rod later on because it was put under immediate stress or not.

I use the WOT method also- only minor difference is that I lean it out till it will run at least 180F. I try to maintain 200F, but running WOT it just does not happen- covering the head or not. Using the method exactly as described on CEFX I can only get the engines to 140F. It only takes 1/2 turn or so leaner than Joshs' settings to get the temps up to 180+.

I've done three engines recently like this and they have the most compression of all my engines.

Use the WOT method- just keep the temps up.

With the WOT method the engine doesn't rev too much since its almost 4 stroking.

All I can tell you is that on my D3R I followed STS's method (Dino's) exactly as described, cahnaged the conrod after break in, and it lasted me 2 1/2 gallons of Byron's of hard racing at 120ºC, before performance started to decrease. Nothing broke, I measured play in conrod's bushings after every race, and when play got beyond .05mm, I changed P/S kit, piston pin conrod and crank.
These new set I broke it in using a combination of methods. First tank with cool break in method on a bench runing and stoping every 2 minutes at idle, like STS recommends.
Second and third tank at WOT, very rich.
Next tanks on the car in the track up to complete 1 liter of Maxy's fuel.
Results.
This is the fastest STS engine I've had till now, I've won several races and it is going to start it's fourth galon of fuel. I've measured the engine after every race, and there are no signs of wear beyond limits, no power decrease and it runs 10ºC cooler than first set. Everybody asks me if i've done any mods to it, and answer is NO. It is a box stock D3R.
So, if that answers your question as to a measured and compared performance of methods over the same engine..... the answer is obvious...this last method is far superior than factory suggested method. The reason why the factory suggets their method is because it is a safer method that any common driver without experience can do. WOT method requires a break-in-bench, and more edxperience with engine know how and carburation, etcetc., because if not it can cost you an engine.

AFM

I once had a NovaMega EVO2 engine, not modified, but it was even faster then several EVO5 engines out there.
Don't forget that you can also be lucky with a piston and sleeve set you buy....

Factory drivers will get hand selected P/S sets, just like the one You and I probably bought.......

For the described break-in procedures, I think at the end, they all are good.......

My question is the following:
From where do I start opening the needle 1 full turn, from the factory settings?
Dumb question but I had to ask. I am getting a new OS TZ .12 and probably gonna break it in using Josh's method, I don't wanna have any question in my mind.