guys, i have just read this thread, and here are some questions as m a newbie, trying to break in my engine. (hope u guys dun mind if they are stupid questions)

"Start by opening the top end needle 1 full turn and open the carburetor to full throttle and hold it there" - how long to hold there before u open the HSN until engine flame out?

"From here, close the top end needle ¼ turn and restart the engine again running it at full throttle" - do we need to cool down the engine before starting it? also do u guys face this problem of stuck piston? coz last time when we break in our engine, we all have to use a philip screw driver to pry on the flywheel to get the piston down. and this has caused damages to the flywheel teeth. may i also ask if this is the process where the piston get scratches? how should we correct this problem?

"Run the engine full throttle for 3 tanks and shut the engine down and allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes" - full throttle all the way for 3 tanks to finish? really no need to release the throttle? and no need to cool down the engine between tanks? from here, there is no need to adjust the HSN? and no need to make the engine flame out?

may i know how much time is required for breaking in a brand new engine, rite from the start to race speed tuned? i am really interested to try out this WOT break in coz previously i idle 2 tanks, run at low speed around the track for 3 tanks, then WOT at starter box, closing the HSN till it get really lean, then richen it down (still WOT), and i found that idling and low speed running is really no useless. so i await some pro advise here. thanks

Yes until the engine goes out. You want to run the engine as rich as possible without stalling to flush all metallic flashing/filings out of the engine. So when it dies, lean it out 1/4 turn. The pressure might need relief from the fuel build up. Just unscrew the glow plug a few turns and give the flywheel a bump on the starter. Keep your eyes away the fuel will splash on you! I guess restarting it is up to you, either way won't hurt.

The three tank portion, yes, run the car full throttle. You will see that when the engine is full throttle with such a rich setting, it's like the engine is at a slight high idle but spitting raw/wet fuel. This part is very quick as you will go through a tank of fuel within 1-2 minutes.

The LSN and idle screws are very important.

Trust me, his method has worked just fine as the instructions stand. He's a great guy and if you have any questions, E-mail or wait for him to reply here. When using this method I was able to use one glow plug per gallon of fuel. Probably not a great idea, but I broke the engine in with the same plug! :)

His engine clean up tutorial works great too. Actually, all of his nitro tech works great.

ok, i shall try out this method over the weekend and see how. thanks bro for your advise.

No prob. ;)

It's so funny you mention this. A guy came up to me and said "man that thing sounds fast", as a joke I said, "it's probably running too lean" and started laughing. His reply was "you should really get a temp gun." Then I told him I do it by sight and sound, he looked at me crazy cause I'm a noob there. I probably sound crazy, but I can tell when the engine is lean from sound and the smell. I can't put my finger on it, but maybe someone can describe what I'm talking about. It's like the engine has a sharp echo when lean and the heat has a smell. :weird: :lol:

For instance: I knew my engine was too rich to be burning glow plugs on my other thread - just couldn't figure out what it was.

They actually really stink when theyre too lean, gotta love that smell after a 'a' main

guys, may i ask why there are still have scratches on the area between the top and 2 groove lines of the piston after following cyrul's WOT break in method?

Scratches
 

You should not have scratches in your engine unless you have got dirt in it !

but i have dismentle the engine and clean it up, and then lubricate it with after run before breaking-in the engine.

i got this to and theres no way i got anything in it. come to think of it all my motors have some kind of marks on the piston but they run fast so idono.i think now methods dont mater as long as you take your time and run it in rich and slowly work to max power.

is this way ok for novarossi micro cast pistions
or do they need special treatment??

do cyrul"s thing for the first two tanks than let it cool,then again for two,then let it cool,then just throw it on the track and run it rich and work up to max power slowly.dont run a micro cast piston to much on the box it will wear out.

witch part? heat it up start it warm it up then flush it for two cool down then flush for two cool down then on the track slowly and rich

Make sure it cools completly at BDC.

In fact, always make sure it cools at BDC, even after it's broken in.

Mark the flywheel if you have too, or check the exuast opening.

ok im now sold on this method,i just ran my motor at the track and oh my its the fastest thig iv ever run, but do it slowly work your way up to max power, this works,the con rod has no play on it at all not like my other motors i had in the past and iv had a bunch.lets say im very happy and lets see what happens later.